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climbing in winter?
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vee


Mar 24, 2009, 11:46 AM
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climbing in winter?  (Australasia: New_Zealand: Canterbury)
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I will be in Christchurch from the beginning of May for 3 months, possibly more. Is it possible to sport climb in winter? And if so, where is the best place to go for grades in the mid 20's?


Myxomatosis


Mar 24, 2009, 8:40 PM
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Re: [vee] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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I lived down in CHCH for 20 odd years.

The weather in winter is cold, perhaps some nights reaching 1 to 3 degrees. During the day gets up to around 10 to 16-17 degrees.

But the upside is that its so cold the clouds usually drop down low and form frost and fog overnight leaving no rain for the next day, so you can get dry spells.

It doesnt snow oftern (once every two years) but it can rain for a few days straight (four five days in a row is not surprising)

Britten Crag is quite exposed to a westerly (I think) being on the CHCH side of the port hills. Its the best sport climbing close to the city. Just get the right wind and its not to bad.

The Cave is a cave (hahaha) and overhung but in winter it can seep. Grades start around 22 and go up to 33, steep and pumpy climbing ... I think its mostly fixed hangers so its easy to try some hard stuff and not have to bail your gear out.

There is a ton of other crags around the place, lots of photo's posted up in the routes section.

Our nz forum is on www.mojozone.co.nz if you looking for people climbing/beta/rides and general smack talking.


sbaclimber


Mar 25, 2009, 1:41 AM
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Re: [Myxomatosis] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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Yes, (sport) climbing is definitely possible in winter. Some winters are pretty shite, but for the most part weekly climbing is possible if you don't mind temps around 10 and a bit of wind and/or fog.

Myxomatosis wrote:
Britten Crag is quite exposed to a westerly (I think) being on the CHCH side of the port hills. Its the best sport climbing close to the city. Just get the right wind and its not to bad.
Westerlies aren't all that common in winter. So Britten, or at least parts thereof, is actually often protected from the wind. Seepage makes parts of the crag unclimbable, but it is definitely the best bet for winter sport climbing.

Myxomatosis wrote:
The Cave is a cave (hahaha) and overhung but in winter it can seep. Grades start around 22 and go up to 33, steep and pumpy climbing ... I think its mostly fixed hangers so its easy to try some hard stuff and not have to bail your gear out.
The cave seeps.....bad! Early in the season it is generally still okay, and good if it is otherwise raining, but later it is just plain wet.

Jane Fonda can be okay if it isn't too cold. It doesn't have the seepage issues, but doesn't get any sun either...
Lyttelton Rock is just plain nasty in winter.
Transmitter Crag is protected from most wind and some rain/fog by the trees, but once it's wet, it stays damp for quite a while. Plus, there are only about a handful mid-20s there.
The Dawn Wall is often pretty good in winter, and if you catch it just right, Te Oka should be okay as well.


(This post was edited by sbaclimber on Mar 25, 2009, 1:42 AM)


vee


Mar 25, 2009, 6:42 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the info guys, looking forward to NZ rock.Smile


sbaclimber


Mar 25, 2009, 7:16 AM
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Re: [vee] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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vee wrote:
Thanks for the info guys, looking forward to NZ rock.Smile
Don't get too excited, a lot of it is chossWink

Your chances of getting on good rock improve significantly if you're into trad and/or bouldering though!Cool


Myxomatosis


Mar 25, 2009, 4:08 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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Hey SBA... there's always sport climbing at Castle Hill... if you can call it that Laugh Don't they just boulder the old bolted routes nowdays? Cool

CHCH is the best area for being based for climbing in NZ... you have more than enough places to climb while you are there Smile


sbaclimber


Mar 26, 2009, 1:02 AM
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Re: [Myxomatosis] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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Myxomatosis wrote:
Hey SBA... there's always sport climbing at Castle Hill... if you can call it that Laugh Don't they just boulder the old bolted routes nowdays? Cool
Actually, you make a good point. I forgot about Castle Hill for "sport" climbing. There aren't a huge number of good lines up there, but definitely enough to keep someone climbing in the mid 20s busy for a couple days.
"sport", because you need wires to hang on the naked carriage boltsTongue


Myxomatosis


Mar 26, 2009, 4:36 PM
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Re: [sbaclimber] climbing in winter? [In reply to]
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Man we make a good team... Nobody can top our beta Laugh

Should we give him run down hold by hold beta for some routes? Sly

I climbed an old route a few weekends ago with a single carriage. Slung my new nut over it... took a whipper and the fucking thing slide out 2inchs.

"Fuck this"

Grabbed my nut and down climbed.... Thats my entire experince with naked heads Laugh


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