Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Yellow Jumars Safe?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Big Wall and Aid Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 


simpsongunn


Mar 26, 2009, 9:38 AM
Post #1 of 18 (5824 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2007
Posts: 14

Yellow Jumars Safe?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

Hey,

I am still using my yellow Jumars from the 80's. Are these considered a safe practice? Now, as back then, I have the bottom hole backed up with supertape looped to the top hole.

I've tried Petzls but find the Jumars easier to work one-handed. However, a pair of Petzl's available locally now would make upgrading reasonably cheap.

Thanks.


kennoyce


Mar 26, 2009, 10:06 AM
Post #2 of 18 (5783 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1302

Re: [simpsongunn] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (4 ratings)  
Can't Post

STOP USING THEM IMMEDIATLY, Yellow Jumars are extremely unsafe which is why I only use blue ones personally. Sometimes I do see people using one yellow jumar, but its always backed up with a safe blue one.


dingus


Mar 26, 2009, 10:12 AM
Post #3 of 18 (5776 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17387

Re: [simpsongunn] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

So long as they are mechanically sound, yes they are perfectly safe. Twas the old gray ones (made of pot metal, basically) that were weak handled, not the yeller ones.

I too agree btw, that for *normal* wall work the jumars KICK ASS on the pretzels, cept for the grips.

I have both and have used both. When I need a 'must not slip cause the freakin teeth will grab anything' jug I go with the pretzels.

When i need a more multipurpose jug I use my old jumars (cintage 1984). For example, if working a route on fixed ropes I much prefer the jumars.

If I anticipated any sort of ice however, I'd take the pretzels.

Cheers
DMT


docburner


Mar 26, 2009, 10:24 AM
Post #4 of 18 (5753 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 10, 2005
Posts: 192

Re: [dingus] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm hoping for a good picture of you jugging with pretzels.


simpsongunn


Mar 27, 2009, 7:23 AM
Post #5 of 18 (5663 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2007
Posts: 14

Re: [kennoyce] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Pmyche--

Oh, and I should rig it to have the rope run over the supertape in he channel at the bottom? Spicy!

Sly


anthonypmason


Mar 27, 2009, 8:28 AM
Post #6 of 18 (5626 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 27, 2008
Posts: 18

Re: [simpsongunn] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Bout' the only thing wrong would be if that supertape tape was the same vintage as the jugs themselves, I would re-sliing the tape and keep on juggin'
good luck


pmyche


Mar 27, 2009, 9:02 AM
Post #7 of 18 (5602 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 1160

Post deleted by pmyche [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  

 


krusher4


Mar 27, 2009, 10:50 AM
Post #8 of 18 (5551 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997

Re: [pmyche] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (1 rating)  
Can't Post

I heard that even the new Yellow one's are unsafe...I imagine one's from the 80's to be a rope cutting death trap.


dingus


Mar 27, 2009, 10:56 AM
Post #9 of 18 (5544 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17387

Re: [krusher4] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Jumar teeth are far less aggressive than pretzel.

The inherent danger of yeller Jumars is popping off the rope on traverses, a well known limitation of that design.

DMT


simpsongunn


Mar 27, 2009, 11:13 AM
Post #10 of 18 (5536 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 14, 2007
Posts: 14

Re: [dingus] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If I'm not mistaken, clipping a second biner to the bottom hole and clipping that biner into the (horizontal) rope, is one way to go safer on traverses?

Other suggestions?


coastal_climber


Mar 27, 2009, 12:02 PM
Post #11 of 18 (5501 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 16, 2006
Posts: 2542

Re: [simpsongunn] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

simpsongunn wrote:
If I'm not mistaken, clipping a second biner to the bottom hole and clipping that biner into the (horizontal) rope, is one way to go safer on traverses?

Correct.


skinner


Apr 4, 2009, 1:52 PM
Post #12 of 18 (5348 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 31, 2004
Posts: 1747

Re: [coastal_climber] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I clip an oval (other shapes tend to corkfark the rope and cause extra friction) top and bottom on traverse.

I have the yellow jumars, really no need to sling them unless the frame is damaged, in which case you should toss them anyway. I have my very first pair of vintage grey "jumars-of-death", which I still use now and again. The greys have the old style frame which you HAD to sling them around the handle and down through the slot in the bottom of the frame. I believe the problem began with illiterate people who must not have been able to read the documentation, and would clip a biner directly through the slot in the bottom of the frame. Being pot metal, the thin sidewalls of the slot would snap when only minimal torque was applied to the frame by the biner. The problem was with the operator more so then the jumar itself, however the yellow style was definitely a big improvement. I also have a pair of pretzels, but prefer the jumars, especially when using them in any sort of rig. I have the rare z-toothed cams on the greys, which I was going to donate to Storrick, but he was such an arrogant dick in an email reply to me that I decided to keep them. The z-tooth relied pretty much on force alone to clamp the rope and was probably the easiest on ropes of all the handled ascenders, but... even a tiny bit of mud on rope would cause them to slip.. ice.. forget it.


squishy654


Aug 11, 2009, 4:49 PM
Post #13 of 18 (4830 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137

Re: [simpsongunn] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I use the Yellow Jumars, they were hand me downs from Graig Peer and do the job nicely...I did re-sling them just in case though...I love them and wouldn't trade them for any of the newer designs, I still need to get a Croll/basic for a backup though...


lumineferusother


Aug 12, 2009, 5:02 PM
Post #14 of 18 (4758 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 3, 2005
Posts: 118

Re: [kennoyce] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kennoyce wrote:
STOP USING THEM IMMEDIATLY, Yellow Jumars are extremely unsafe which is why I only use blue ones personally. Sometimes I do see people using one yellow jumar, but its always backed up with a safe blue one.

Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?


kennoyce


Aug 13, 2009, 7:02 AM
Post #15 of 18 (4705 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 6, 2001
Posts: 1302

Re: [lumineferusother] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?

No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it.


bill413


Aug 13, 2009, 7:28 AM
Post #16 of 18 (4695 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 19, 2004
Posts: 5674

Re: [kennoyce] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

kennoyce wrote:
In reply to:
Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?

No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it.

I can see how that would be a horrible problem for a climber trying to get "out there" on a climb.


avalon420


Oct 19, 2009, 5:54 PM
Post #17 of 18 (4307 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 28, 2005
Posts: 281

Re: [bill413] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

bill413 wrote:
kennoyce wrote:
In reply to:
Is this because of the acidic properties of Red Dye #5 that makes up the yellow paint? Man, why would anyone make those any more?

No, it is actually because of the yellow #5 dye, this dye has many horrible properties including causing testicals to shrink, because of this I refuse to use anything that contains it.

I can see how that would be a horrible problem for a climber trying to get "out there" on a climb.
Because, you'll never develop the balls necessary for A4 & up, DUH.


skiclimb


Oct 20, 2009, 3:35 PM
Post #18 of 18 (4223 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1936

Re: [avalon420] Yellow Jumars Safe? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yellow dye was found to be explosive if bumped hard against granite.

YOU WILL DIE!!!!


Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Big Wall and Aid Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?
$35.96 (10% off)
$271.31 (10% off)
$8.96 (10% off)
$16.16 (10% off)



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook