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sand rock classics?!
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bigredscowboy


Mar 30, 2009, 9:01 AM
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sand rock classics?!  (North_America: United_States: Alabama: Northern)
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I have a chance to come down to HP40 this weekend but wanted to stop at sandrock on the way. I have the Craggers Atlas but I wanted to know the local classics up to 12a Sport or Trad. Thanks
ATH


Lighterknot


Mar 31, 2009, 2:22 PM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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here are some climbs that I have either attempted or have heard really good things about...

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=79267

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=7893

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...jump.cgi?Detailed=17

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=37632

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=18539


(This post was edited by Lighterknot on Mar 31, 2009, 2:23 PM)


bigredscowboy


Mar 31, 2009, 9:24 PM
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Re: [Lighterknot] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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looks like a good start. any other suggestions?


tysonl33cobb


Mar 31, 2009, 10:32 PM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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all good ones mentioned above. a couple more i can think of,
-Gravy train http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Alabama/Northern/Sandrock_C...lage_/Holiday_Block/_Gravy_Train_9859.html
** this route has been bolted, i think its like 6 or 8 bolts to coldshuts.
-Cinco de Mayo
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Alabama/Northern/Sandrock_C...lage_/Holiday_Block/Cinco_De_Mayo_88745.html
** short sweet route
-Kennel Club
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Alabama/Northern/Sandrock_C...lage_/Holiday_Block/Kennel_Club_aka_That..._19865.html
** easy first lead, greattt warmup.
-Fun overhung bouldering on the fireplace rock and good boulders just about everywhere else..
like he said above me, misty and comfortably numb are two very popular routes.

have fun at at sandrock, its a beautiful place. hope you have a good trip!


Lighterknot


Apr 1, 2009, 12:20 PM
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Re: [tysonl33cobb] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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also at that grades you mentioned i would highly suggest:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...mp.cgi?Detailed=8010


above me so I have no personal info, but I have heard it is a sweet line from several sources.


subantz


Apr 1, 2009, 2:02 PM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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Comfortably Numb, The Pinnacle 5.9
Misty, The Sun Wall 5.10c
Dreamscape, The sun Wall 5.11c
there is a lot of good lines @ Sandrock but these are the ones that seam to be the best.


bigredscowboy


Apr 1, 2009, 7:21 PM
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Would ya'll recommend somewhere else in the area for better roped climbing?


bigredscowboy


Apr 2, 2009, 8:39 AM
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one of my partners bailed. anyone looking for a partner for this saturday at sandrock?


gothcopter


Apr 2, 2009, 10:06 AM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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I second all of subantz's classic recommendations for Sand Rock. There's also some fun stuff at the west end of Holiday Block, but I can never remember what's what. I also think Oyster is a worthwhile, mellow 5.10a. It's the left-most bolted route on the south face of the Holiday Block. (Some people call it different names.)

Some of the grading at Sand Rock tends to be a bit on the soft side, so you may be able to climb a letter grade or two higher than you think. There's also plenty of bouldering there, so you'll have something to do if you can't find a partner. Sand Rock is usually pretty busy, so you if you show up by yourself you may be able to find some people to climb with. The weather report looks great for Saturday, so of course I have to work that day.

As far as other places nearby, Jamestown is mostly trad and has some fantastic lines. It will definitely be less populated than Sand Rock. For your first trip to Jamestown though, you're better off going with someone who has been there before. Otherwise I think you'd have better luck at Sand Rock.


bigredscowboy


Apr 3, 2009, 5:00 AM
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Re: [gothcopter] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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gothcopter wrote:
Otherwise I think you'd have better luck at Sand Rock.
Sweet. Thanks for the beta ya'll


sthcrag510


Apr 3, 2009, 5:06 AM
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there isn't really anything good about sand rock... its just dirty and crowded and crawling with inbreds...


bigredscowboy


Apr 3, 2009, 5:07 AM
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sthcrag510 wrote:
there isn't really anything good about sand rock... its just dirty and crowded and crawling with inbreds...
so your recommendations?


sthcrag510


Apr 3, 2009, 5:14 AM
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Re: [bigredscowboy] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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If you have the craggers atlas i would go to griffin falls instead of sand rock. Some classic 5.9 trad routes... including Knife Crack which is 5.9+ which is ultra classic perfect fingers... it has a wide variety of stuff. Alot less crowded for sure. Its not too far away from sand rock. worth checking out if you want a little peace and quiet


bigredscowboy


Apr 3, 2009, 5:17 AM
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Re: [sthcrag510] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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will the rock be dry?


keinangst


Apr 3, 2009, 5:22 AM
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Re: [sthcrag510] sand rock classics?! [In reply to]
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sthcrag510 wrote:
If you have the craggers atlas i would go to griffin falls instead of sand rock. Some classic 5.9 trad routes... including Knife Crack which is 5.9+ which is ultra classic perfect fingers... it has a wide variety of stuff. Alot less crowded for sure. Its not too far away from sand rock. worth checking out if you want a little peace and quiet


Agreed on Griffin. You might bump into one or two other parties while you're there, compared to waiting in line at Sandrock. IMO, the rock quality is higher and more consistent, too. Very underrated crag, probably because of relatively few routes (especially in beginner ranges). But if I climbed 5.12, I'd be going to Griffin Falls and Little River Canyon (400+ routes) before Sandrock.


sthcrag510


Apr 3, 2009, 5:30 AM
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Are you planning on going on saturday? I would think it would be. But i haven't been there after a rain so don't have any first hand knowledge


bigredscowboy


Apr 3, 2009, 6:34 AM
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sthcrag510 wrote:
Are you planning on going on saturday? I would think it would be. But i haven't been there after a rain so don't have any first hand knowledge
leaving at noon and hope to get there before the sun sets to get a few climbs in. wake up and climb saturday


johnwesely


Apr 3, 2009, 7:23 AM
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The rock will definitely be dry in most places, but I imagine that dreamscape will be wet due to its location (In a cave type thing). Pigs In Zen (10d) is pretty fun and heave ho (11b) is a really cool route that looks much harder than it is.


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