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nctxcllimer


May 22, 2001, 5:26 AM
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What is you favorite trad climbing spot and why?


ozclimber


May 22, 2001, 9:03 PM
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G'day, I have a few favorites but the one i like the most is probably Moonarie in south australia. The place is amazing. It has great lines,both multi and single pitches, stunning veiws, and very few people go there. There are new lines to be climbed at all grades and all are on great quality rock. I also love Arapilies(even with the crowds) and the Grampians.


nctxcllimer


May 29, 2001, 5:39 AM
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To respond to my own question, my favorite is Looking Glass, NC. The routes are multipitch and the views area beutiful with the NC Smoky MTS all conerded in green. The rock is hard granite, so you grear, when placed correctly is bomber. The is a a lot of different kinds of climbs, from the easy pitches on the south face and nose area to the scary pitches on the sun wall and the classic pitches on the North face.

I have also been to Red Rocks, NV. With it outragous amout of multipitch climbing this could become my new favorite even though the veiws are not as nice, but there is a lot less rain.


kolby


Jun 22, 2001, 12:53 AM
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Allthough I'm a beginner to Trad, my favorite spots are East Animas in Durango, CO (10 min from my home!!) and Ophir Wall near Telluride, CO. In fact, a bunch of us are heading there for the weekend tommarrow. See you all on the rocks!!!

-Kolby Jardine


fiend


Jun 23, 2001, 9:33 AM
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I'm not sure Squish qualifies for best climbing community right now, apparently it's really bad for theft these days. I'm not sure but I thinks it's internal(theft by climbers)


wandt


Jun 24, 2001, 3:39 AM
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Squamish might be the best climbing community if you're there almost daily, or at least weekly. Without a vehicle, I get there rarely, and the climbing community is so strong and close knit that I feel like an outsider. You really don't get "assimilated". Same thing at the gyms in Vancouver; everyone knows everyone ELSE. A very elite club for those with $/car.


climber1


Jun 25, 2001, 10:26 PM
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Best crag climbing: Joshua Tree
Best multi-pitch climbing: Yosemite
Best Alpine climbing(lower 48: Eastern Sierra Nevada


kriso9tails


Jul 5, 2001, 3:13 AM
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I have to say Bon Echo 'cause it's the only place I've done any trad routes. It's pretty nice. There's a good atmosphere at the ACC hut plus boat rides to and from the climbs as they're all off of the lake. As an additional bonus guidboats come by to hand you the spotlight evey once and a while.

I'm heading down to the Adirondacks tomorrow. I've heard some stories about the climbing there. It should be good fun.


Partner rrrADAM


Jul 10, 2001, 1:28 AM
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Hmmmmmm...

VERY hard to say. I'm blessed with a GREAT job (I inspect Nuclear Power Plants all over the country) that allows me to sample America's best, i.e.: The Gunks, Devil's Tower, Eldorado Canyon,... this list goes on for 10 states. I live in SoCal and only work in the Spring and Fall, so Summers and Winters I have off and climb around Bishop, Yosemite, Tahquitz, and J Tree.

I love it all, however, I don't like long hard approaches. I particularly hated the approach to Castleton Tower in Moab, Ut., 1 1/2 hours thru the desert uphill in the heat.

Like I said I love it all, but my favorite is The Gunks. I've done 2 jobs 45 minutes south of there for a total of 3 months. I love the big blocky roofs there, and the approches are actually along a beautiful cariage trail.

Tuolumne Medows is a close 2nd.

rrrADAM


Partner jhundrup


Jul 10, 2001, 9:17 AM
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My favorite place to date is the Bugaboos in Canada. The approach is tough and the window of opportunity small, but the climbing is unbelievable. The NE Ridge of Bugaboo Spire is one of North America's 50 classic climbs. I have been snowed on there in August and done some Ice climbing there in Oct/Nov. The tough approach keeps the noncommited away and makes you work to enjoy the area. You mainly only get climbers there since the hike in is so arduous.


ramylson


Jul 11, 2001, 10:19 PM
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Simple really..

Best trad climbing is anywhere were you can fit gear in, and the rock isn't all choss.

Personally, it happens to be The Needles of S. Dakota, but I definitely climb more at Devil's Lake Wisconsin.. don't have a choice.
The list of trips are long, but it'll happen sooner or later..

"ramylson"


wandt


Jul 12, 2001, 1:41 AM
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One thing Squamish definately has going for it is the very solid rock. Sounds dumb, but I've had rock break off in my hand in Prince George and on Vancouver Island. Squamish I've used some really really thin flakes and it's never happened to me.

Makes trad climbing much more pleasant.


woza


Jul 27, 2001, 11:22 PM
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