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Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack
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acherry


Apr 3, 2009, 10:30 AM
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Registered: Jul 23, 2004
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Re: [iamthewallress] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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Ah, I see that you are talking about. I'm am now certain that resoling would be completely normal. I have had many many shoes resoled and I have only ever had a half resole done. So since at the forefoot the sole and the rand are just glued together there's no issue. Resolers chop half the sole off normally.


tigerlilly


Apr 3, 2009, 11:27 AM
Post #27 of 32 (920 views)
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Re: [carabiner96] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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carabiner96 wrote:
Fwiw, i just got my technos resoled at the plattsburg place for $30.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but how good is their work? I was thinking about sending a pair of shoes there.


iamthewallress


Apr 3, 2009, 11:35 AM
Post #28 of 32 (919 views)
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Re: [acherry] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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acherry wrote:
Ah, I see that you are talking about. I'm am now certain that resoling would be completely normal. I have had many many shoes resoled and I have only ever had a half resole done. So since at the forefoot the sole and the rand are just glued together there's no issue. Resolers chop half the sole off normally.

If you start climbing wider cracks (where you use teh back of your foot a lot), you'll probably need to have the whole enchillada done eventually (or new shoes). Not a prob, perhaps, if you really like them and don't mind or stick to the smaller stuff.

I need to fix my rands every couple of repairs. I also thought that the little tension strap would be likely to get ground through in wide cracks and would be difficult (impossible?) to replace.


(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Apr 3, 2009, 11:41 AM)


acherry


Apr 3, 2009, 12:08 PM
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Re: [iamthewallress] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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Yeah, that's true about wider cracks... Although I do tend to avoid them!

I tend to feel like I want less tension behind my achilles (sp?), so I don't think I'd mind losing the ankle strap thingy. That's one thing that kills me about my current crack shoes is how much they dig into my achilles-es. :)~


iamthewallress


Apr 3, 2009, 12:28 PM
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Re: [acherry] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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acherry wrote:

I tend to feel like I want less tension behind my achilles (sp?), so I don't think I'd mind losing the ankle strap thingy. That's one thing that kills me about my current crack shoes is how much they dig into my achilles-es. :)~

I know what you mean. When I started climbing everyone told me the Boreal Ace was the be all end all "trad shoe". So I bought some. Never had such achilles pain in my life.


carabiner96


Apr 3, 2009, 5:58 PM
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Re: [tigerlilly] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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tigerlilly wrote:
carabiner96 wrote:
Fwiw, i just got my technos resoled at the plattsburg place for $30.

Sorry to hijack the thread, but how good is their work? I was thinking about sending a pair of shoes there.

They look nice...haven't climbed on them yet, will let you know if the toes fall off!


adavis123


Dec 26, 2012, 11:59 AM
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Registered: Dec 25, 2012
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Re: [acherry] Scarpa wms Techno vs Sportiva wms Nago in Crack [In reply to]
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I'm between two shoes, the La Sportiva Nago and the Mad Rock Flash 2.0. I consider myself an intermediate climber and I climb a 5.10b and sometimes c. I was wondering if anyone has used these shoes or which ones I should get. I am mainly going to use these shoes for the gym. Also price doesn't matter to me, so I don't care if the Nago's are more expensive. Is one better for smearing, heel-hooking, edging, anything? I've been using the Mad Rock Phoenix's as my main climbing shoes.

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