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shockabuku
Apr 9, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #26 of 43
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Are you looking to TR solo (title of the thread) or lead solo?
If you want to TR solo save your money and get a Petzl microcender or mini-traxion. They're much cheaper and probably easier to use for TR solo.
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moose_droppings
Apr 9, 2009, 7:55 PM
Post #27 of 43
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thomas.jerald wrote: Hey, im new to this forum, but from what i hear and have read this is a great community... Just have one question... Has anybody used the Solo Aid also by Wren Ind.? I ask because as a college student the silent partner is just plain out of my price range, and I really don't like the idea of having to use a chest harness with the soloist. And i don't know why, but the grigri just kinda scares me, gut feeling, you know...
If your just going to be top roping, get yourself a rescucender or micrcender by Petzl. No matter what you end up using, tying backup knots is always prudent.
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pendereki
Apr 9, 2009, 9:08 PM
Post #28 of 43
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In response to the original question: I use the Silent Partner to solo lead and toprope. Leading, I forget it is there. Toproping, I forget it is there. i really like it for both applications. The Back up knot system was a hassle when I first started using the SP, just like the directions stated. Once you forget to take out the backup knot on lead and run into it, it locks the SP up against the backup carabiner. What a pain! I am now used to paying attention to the backup system and ignoring the Silent Partner completly and seldom have any problems.
Toproping, the system is even easier to manage. Tie the middle of the rope to the anchor. I tie my backpack to the bottom of the rope with just the right amount of slack and the SP slides up and down so smooth I do forget about it. For backup, I tie butterfly knots in the other half every several feet and clip into those with a locking 'biner on a sling girth hitched to my harness. After I have clipped into the second loop, I unclip the first. It's not all that much more trouble than clipping draws to bolts. Since you asked specifically about the Silent Partner, I assume you are not worried about the price, therefore I recommend getting one. It is the most hassle-free soloing device I have used.
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shockabuku
Apr 9, 2009, 10:15 PM
Post #29 of 43
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pendereki wrote: Since you asked specifically about the Silent Partner, I assume you are not worried about the price, therefore I recommend getting one. It is the most hassle-free soloing device I have used.
What other devices have you used?
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moose_droppings
Apr 9, 2009, 11:16 PM
Post #30 of 43
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pendereki wrote: In response to the original question: I use the Silent Partner to solo lead and toprope............ and Since you asked specifically about the Silent Partner, I assume you are not worried about the price, therefore I recommend getting one.
The post that shockabuku and I posted to was from today, all the others were from 2002.
Good post, just don't be expexcting a reply from the OP soon.
Just saying.
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pendereki
Apr 10, 2009, 3:05 AM
Post #31 of 43
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moose_droppings wrote: pendereki wrote: In response to the original question: I use the Silent Partner to solo lead and toprope............ and Since you asked specifically about the Silent Partner, I assume you are not worried about the price, therefore I recommend getting one. The post that shockabuku and I posted to was from today, all the others were from 2002. Good post, just don't be expexcting a reply from the OP soon. Just saying.
damn, details like dates and such. Wasn't paying attention, just wanted a warm fuzzy for being helpful. Thanks for letting me know that my fuzzy wuzzn't coming anytime soon.
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thomas.jerald
Apr 10, 2009, 3:08 AM
Post #32 of 43
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WOW!!! I was right about this being a good forum, you guys are fast . Thanks for all the help, but i was specifically asking about the Solo Aid by Wren Ind. as I am having a very hard time finding any reviews on it... Thanks again...
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shockabuku
Apr 10, 2009, 3:16 AM
Post #33 of 43
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thomas.jerald wrote: WOW!!! I was right about this being a good forum, you guys are fast . Thanks for all the help, but i was specifically asking about the Solo Aid by Wren Ind. as I am having a very hard time finding any reviews on it... Thanks again...
Yeah, so here's your question:
thomas.jerald wrote: Hey, im new to this forum, but from what i hear and have read this is a great community... Just have one question... Has anybody used the Solo Aid also by Wren Ind.? I ask because as a college student the silent partner is just plain out of my price range, and I really don't like the idea of having to use a chest harness with the soloist. And i don't know why, but the grigri just kinda scares me, gut feeling, you know...
And the answer is: yes, somebody has used it. Was that a helpful answer? Somehow I doubt it. I suspect you are actually looking for more information. If a discussion ensued we might be able to provide some useful info.
I was trying to gather some background to your question and that still remains to be determined. Are you looking to do TR solo or lead solo?
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gulla826
Apr 11, 2009, 8:40 PM
Post #35 of 43
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I have been thinking about getting into top rope soloing for some time know. I just intend to climb easy routes with it when I can't find a partner. I believe I understand the mechanics, besides the back up knot. Is the back up knots put into the rope as you climb? If so how much of a pain in the ass is it? Or are the knots put in before the climb and if so how does the device move past them?
thanks
mike
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shockabuku
Apr 12, 2009, 8:28 AM
Post #36 of 43
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gulla826 wrote: Is the back up knots put into the rope as you climb? If so how much of a pain in the ass is it? thanks mike
Yes, as you climb. How much of a pain in the ass depends on you and the climb. Generally I try to put one in high enough off the ground that it will keep me from decking (with rope stretch factored in) and then above ledges or when it's convenient.
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gunkiemike
Apr 12, 2009, 1:06 PM
Post #37 of 43
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gulla826 wrote: I have been thinking about getting into top rope soloing for some time know. I just intend to climb easy routes with it when I can't find a partner. I believe I understand the mechanics, besides the back up knot. Is the back up knots put into the rope as you climb? If so how much of a pain in the ass is it? Or are the knots put in before the climb and if so how does the device move past them? thanks mike
We're talking about two types of BU knots here. The first are tied on the rope your device is on. Typically when using a Grigri, to cover that ugly-but-unlikely lever problem. These knots go below the device and must be tied as you climb. Tie anything bulky that will stop a sliding device.
The other type are Fig 8 loops tied in a second rope that hangs next to your main rope. These can be tied beforehand. You clip into them as you go up, again, purely as BU in case of main system failure.
If you're using a ascender with any potential to shear the rope, then the second type of BU is preferred. For a slipping device/prussik, the first type may be all you need. It also is the way to go if your route is more than half a rope length long.
Other considerations - If you tie the first type of BU knot but clip into it, you totally lose the tension on the rope that is gen. needed for the device to slide up the rope. If you use the second type of BU system for ice climbing, you will be bringing a loop of rope up underneath you as you climb. This tends to get caught on icicles, bringing you to an immediate halt.
Have fun, be safe.
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rocknrock
Apr 13, 2009, 1:58 PM
Post #38 of 43
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gulla826 wrote: I have been thinking about getting into top rope soloing for some time know. I just intend to climb easy routes with it when I can't find a partner. I believe I understand the mechanics, besides the back up knot. Is the back up knots put into the rope as you climb? If so how much of a pain in the ass is it? Or are the knots put in before the climb and if so how does the device move past them? thanks mike
I'm certainly not an expert but this is the best article I've ever seen about it
http://www.climbing.com/...techtips/ttsport253/
He mentions something about leaving slack to not dislodge rocks, I think it's more about not abrading the rope again and again in the same spot, I may be wrong.
Some of that subject is is mentioned here
http://gorp.away.com/...expert/exp041101.htm
Or you can see how this guy has dealt with that problem here
http://mountainproject.com/v/james_w/106098710
See James481 on
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rum.cgi?post=2119475
for more regarding stuff his top rope setup that's where I got that link
Again I'm no expert, I assume it goes without saying make your own decisions.
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dingus
Apr 13, 2009, 2:16 PM
Post #39 of 43
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thomas.jerald wrote: WOW!!! I was right about this being a good forum, you guys are fast . Thanks for all the help, but i was specifically asking about the Solo Aid by Wren Ind. as I am having a very hard time finding any reviews on it... Thanks again...
I own one. Its a mechanical prussik. You have to pull the rope through with your hand. They say to use a backup.
I used it for some aid work. I used it once for TR and never again. I do not like having to feed rope while solo top roping.
I use mini-trax in tandem for this application, now.
DMT
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chopperjohn
Apr 15, 2009, 11:37 PM
Post #40 of 43
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[quote "newbieclimber"]save your money and use a gri-gri for TR soloing. you can back it up by clipping into overhands on a bight every 15 feet, or you can set up the gri-gri to self feed by slightly weighting the end of the rope. then back it up with a loose prussik tied above the gri-gri. as the gri-gri slides up the rope it will slide the prussik up. the second method is much less cumbersome than tying into overhands.
silent partners are extremely large and heavy and they are supposed to be a real pain to get unjammed once you fall on them.
[ This Message was edited by: newbieclimber on 2002-01-22 17:30 ][/quote] This methods works great. I use alpine butterflies every 10 feet or so. I rap with my atc and can flick the alpines quicker on the way down.
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EastSideEric
Oct 13, 2009, 5:09 AM
Post #41 of 43
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Anyone ever used a Wild Country Ropeman for TR soloing? Dirt poor, looked simple enough and definetly in the budget.
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joewtc
Oct 14, 2009, 3:02 AM
Post #42 of 43
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hey boretribe, I have a SP and I love it for lead rope solo. It's amazing or the best for lead rope solo or top rope solo. If you are ONLY doing top rope solo, you can buy save some $ and buy an ascender (ONLY the type specifying that they are capable and designed for top rope solo e.g. Ushba http://mtntools.com/cat/rclimb/ascend/ushbabasicascender.htm)
Personally, SP does it all and is designed for rope solo. The weight issue is personal preference (I don't feel the weight at all).
There are many different ways to rope solo (safe and unsafe). So when you are buying your tool, make sure the tool is designed for rope solo. So you don't have to rely on unreliable sources of testing or second guess your equipment. I'd only trust something well tested in lab than personal experience.
I found the best way to top rope solo is:
- set up an equalette anchor at the top
- throw down the whole rope and leave 2m rope.
- tie a figure 8 and then next to it (1foot of rope apart), tie an alpine butterly (the figure 8 is a backup knot in case the alpine butterfly knot fail), clip both in the power point.
- rap down the rope.
- clip your device into the rope and start climbing.
- every now and then, clip a clove hitch knot from the rope into your belay loop as a backup (in case your device fail)
I prefer this to tying the power point to the middle of the rope as there's more rope weight down this way and your device will just run up the rope.
BUT, the advantage of tying the power point to the middle of the rope is your have redunduncy in case your climbing rope was cut by a rock, you still have 1 more backup rope holding you.
There's more risk in top rope solo of rope cut than normal top rope climbing since the same part of the rope is constanting rubbing against the rock.
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anthonymason
Apr 29, 2010, 3:48 AM
Post #43 of 43
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I have used the SP for lead and for TR and it is by far the best device for both. There are some that are cheap and would say use this or that maybe a knot would be better etc.
However I assume that they don't have a SP and dont know the inside out of this very cool device, go out and buy one and you'll never have to guide a noob into you're slave only to leave you for some reason, so if you are like me burning out partners faster than gurls, do yourself a favor and Buy a SP and you'll have more fun than hooker in Vegas.
Anthony
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