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fireface777


Apr 13, 2009, 6:17 PM
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grading a climb
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I was wondering what basic rule of grading a climb from 5.5 to 5.10


crazy_fingers84


Apr 13, 2009, 6:25 PM
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Re: [fireface777] grading a climb [In reply to]
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can you try to clarify your question?


johnwesely


Apr 13, 2009, 7:20 PM
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Re: [fireface777] grading a climb [In reply to]
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The rules are same as when grading from 5.10 to 5.14.


macblaze


Apr 13, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Re: [fireface777] grading a climb [In reply to]
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You aren't going to get a good answer to this question. As far as I can tell the question is too complicated to answer until you have enough experience that you don't need to ask it any more.

Till then just enjoy the glorious confusion Wink


Alpine07


Apr 13, 2009, 7:48 PM
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Re: [macblaze] grading a climb [In reply to]
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macblaze wrote:
You aren't going to get a good answer to this question. As far as I can tell the question is too complicated to answer until you have enough experience that you don't need to ask it any more.

Till then just enjoy the glorious confusion Wink

Well said. It's not one of those things that you can explain, you have to find out for yourself what those grades mean. It's like reading music.


climbingtrash


Apr 13, 2009, 8:32 PM
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Re: [fireface777] grading a climb [In reply to]
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fireface777 wrote:
I was wondering what basic rule of grading a climb from 5.5 to 5.10

Sandbag it!


no_email_entered


Apr 13, 2009, 8:39 PM
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Re: [climbingtrash] grading a climb [In reply to]
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just grade it 5.7 like they did in the old days----




----[you prolly never climbed in JT or yos, huh?]


jermanimal


Apr 14, 2009, 12:48 PM
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My take when I set...(outdoors, ???)

5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence

5.6 ladder big holds

5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two

5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves

5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds

5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip.

5.11a-d intermediate routes, regular climber starting out .5-1 year goal. More hidden moves, drop knee or bicycle, pinches/crimps/slopers on 35 degree walls.

5.12a-d advanced, requires specific training, endurance and skill 1-2 year goal. Little holds, little rest, tricky clips, crux's can seem to be lined up back to back.


(Take this with a grain of salt, this is MY gauge for setting and grading in Gym, where we are required to give a # to a route. Ultimatly lots of factor come into play based on others in the Gym trying them out. The type of holds, length of moves, skill needed for crux all add up to how hard a route really is...so, a skillful move with big holds at the start of a climb can be on a 5.8, but that same exact move with medium holds and an odd angled foot chip at the top of a route could be the crux of a 5.11. This makes the answer a 5.7 is harder then a 5.5 a valid answer.)


curt


Apr 14, 2009, 9:43 PM
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Re: [jermanimal] grading a climb [In reply to]
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jermanimal wrote:
My take when I set...(outdoors, ???)

5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence

5.6 ladder big holds

5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two

5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves

5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds

5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip.

5.11a-d intermediate routes...

You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live.

Curt


sbaclimber


Apr 15, 2009, 5:21 AM
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Re: [curt] grading a climb [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
jermanimal wrote:
My take when I set...(outdoors, ???)

5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence

5.6 ladder big holds

5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two

5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves

5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds

5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip.

5.11a-d intermediate routes...

You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live.

Curt
That wouldn't prove anything. Everyone knows that all routes in the Gunks are sandbaggedCrazy


la_rouche


Apr 15, 2009, 5:54 AM
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Re: [curt] grading a climb [In reply to]
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In reply to:

You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live.

Curt

Or even my gym. Your 5.10s sound like our .8s, which, I suppose, answers the OP's question.


bill413


Apr 15, 2009, 6:00 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] grading a climb [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
That wouldn't prove anything. Everyone knows that all routes in the Gunks are sandbaggedCrazy

Only the starts Wink


olderic


Apr 15, 2009, 11:39 AM
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Re: [sbaclimber] grading a climb [In reply to]
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sbaclimber wrote:
curt wrote:
jermanimal wrote:
My take when I set...(outdoors, ???)

5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence

5.6 ladder big holds

5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two

5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves

5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds

5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip.

5.11a-d intermediate routes...

You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live.

Curt
That wouldn't prove anything. Everyone knows that all routes in the Gunks are sandbaggedCrazy


Gunks = sandbagged? Or gyms = inflated? It's all relative I guess. But since the first routes at the Gunks predate the first gym routes (in this country) I think there is a good argument that the Gunks grades (even tjough they too have been creeping up the past 25 years) represent the standard.

I do understand the commercial incentive of "everyone can be a 5.10 climber in our gym". Maybe the next great opportunity is for indoor running gyms. A mile down hill course - you wear roller skates - everyone is a 4 minute miler...


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