|
fireface777
Apr 13, 2009, 6:17 PM
Post #1 of 13
(1805 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2008
Posts: 28
|
I was wondering what basic rule of grading a climb from 5.5 to 5.10
|
|
|
|
|
crazy_fingers84
Apr 13, 2009, 6:25 PM
Post #2 of 13
(1799 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2006
Posts: 418
|
can you try to clarify your question?
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Apr 13, 2009, 7:20 PM
Post #3 of 13
(1769 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5323
|
The rules are same as when grading from 5.10 to 5.14.
|
|
|
|
|
macblaze
Apr 13, 2009, 7:43 PM
Post #4 of 13
(1751 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 23, 2005
Posts: 806
|
You aren't going to get a good answer to this question. As far as I can tell the question is too complicated to answer until you have enough experience that you don't need to ask it any more.
Till then just enjoy the glorious confusion 
|
|
|
|
|
Alpine07
Apr 13, 2009, 7:48 PM
Post #5 of 13
(1742 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 1, 2007
Posts: 842
|
macblaze wrote: You aren't going to get a good answer to this question. As far as I can tell the question is too complicated to answer until you have enough experience that you don't need to ask it any more. Till then just enjoy the glorious confusion
Well said. It's not one of those things that you can explain, you have to find out for yourself what those grades mean. It's like reading music.
|
|
|
|
|
climbingtrash
Apr 13, 2009, 8:32 PM
Post #6 of 13
(1720 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 19, 2006
Posts: 4618
|
fireface777 wrote: I was wondering what basic rule of grading a climb from 5.5 to 5.10
Sandbag it!
|
|
|
|
|
no_email_entered
Apr 13, 2009, 8:39 PM
Post #7 of 13
(1717 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 31, 2008
Posts: 558
|
just grade it 5.7 like they did in the old days----
----[you prolly never climbed in JT or yos, huh?]
|
|
|
|
|
jermanimal
Apr 14, 2009, 12:48 PM
Post #8 of 13
(1624 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 7, 2007
Posts: 200
|
My take when I set...(outdoors, ???)
5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence
5.6 ladder big holds
5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two
5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves
5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds
5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip.
5.11a-d intermediate routes, regular climber starting out .5-1 year goal. More hidden moves, drop knee or bicycle, pinches/crimps/slopers on 35 degree walls.
5.12a-d advanced, requires specific training, endurance and skill 1-2 year goal. Little holds, little rest, tricky clips, crux's can seem to be lined up back to back.
(Take this with a grain of salt, this is MY gauge for setting and grading in Gym, where we are required to give a # to a route. Ultimatly lots of factor come into play based on others in the Gym trying them out. The type of holds, length of moves, skill needed for crux all add up to how hard a route really is...so, a skillful move with big holds at the start of a climb can be on a 5.8, but that same exact move with medium holds and an odd angled foot chip at the top of a route could be the crux of a 5.11. This makes the answer a 5.7 is harder then a 5.5 a valid answer.)
|
|
|
|
|
curt
Apr 14, 2009, 9:43 PM
Post #9 of 13
(1542 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 18043
|
jermanimal wrote: My take when I set...(outdoors, ???) 5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence 5.6 ladder big holds 5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two 5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves 5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds 5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip. 5.11a-d intermediate routes...
You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live.
Curt
|
|
|
|
|
sbaclimber
Apr 15, 2009, 5:21 AM
Post #10 of 13
(1509 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2004
Posts: 3015
|
curt wrote: jermanimal wrote: My take when I set...(outdoors, ???) 5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence 5.6 ladder big holds 5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two 5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves 5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds 5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip. 5.11a-d intermediate routes... You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live. Curt 
|
|
|
|
|
la_rouche
Apr 15, 2009, 5:54 AM
Post #11 of 13
(1494 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2008
Posts: 24
|
In reply to: You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live. Curt
Or even my gym. Your 5.10s sound like our .8s, which, I suppose, answers the OP's question.
|
|
|
|
|
olderic
Apr 15, 2009, 11:39 AM
Post #13 of 13
(1441 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1510
|
sbaclimber wrote: curt wrote: jermanimal wrote: My take when I set...(outdoors, ???) 5.5 super ladder big holds and feet all in sequence 5.6 ladder big holds 5.7 larger holds, some edges, may be a match or two 5.8 a mix of holds, foot chips, no ladders, mix in side pulls, and forced moves 5.9 mild crimps, mild slopers, nothing to tricky all straight forward, but will need better footwork, might have a few power moves and a crux, easy to read. Expericeds climber can still "skip" holds 5.10a-d start to get fun, should take practice for beginner not a "first day" route. Real pinches and 2 finger pockets, endurance is required, could be a heal hook. harder to read route, specific foot work required, sequences and holds are hard to skip. 5.11a-d intermediate routes... You need to go climbing in the Gunks for a day or two. Please post a trip report afterwards, assuming you live. Curt That wouldn't prove anything. Everyone knows that all routes in the Gunks are sandbagged
Gunks = sandbagged? Or gyms = inflated? It's all relative I guess. But since the first routes at the Gunks predate the first gym routes (in this country) I think there is a good argument that the Gunks grades (even tjough they too have been creeping up the past 25 years) represent the standard.
I do understand the commercial incentive of "everyone can be a 5.10 climber in our gym". Maybe the next great opportunity is for indoor running gyms. A mile down hill course - you wear roller skates - everyone is a 4 minute miler...
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
