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a-e-jones
Apr 15, 2009, 4:10 PM
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so presently i have full sets of
4x bd micro stoppers
2x bd stoppers
1x dmm wallnuts
i'm looking at the small end and i'm feeling like i should start to look expanding my really small pro options
specifically how do the dmm peanuts compare to the brass offsets? both look like offsets to me am i right? are micro wallnuts worth getting or are they pretty much the same as the smallest bd stoppers?
if you have any other suggestions i'm keen to hear them
oh and i can't actually see any of these in person, the local gear stores have nothing in stock but are willing to special order whatever i want as long as i pay for it ahead of time
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xtrmecat
Apr 15, 2009, 4:40 PM
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I have the dmm peanuts, and they do fit better in some placements that the BD micros are just not right for. I think the brass offsets will bite better though when fallen on, but I have not fallen on any that I can recall. Both seem to fit certain placements well.
I do have wallnuts, and peanuts, and like em, but not the micro wallnuts you ask about. Sorry. I did look here and get a picture to look at. They seem to be straight sided, not tapered though.
http://shopping.msn.com/specs/dmm-micro-wallnut-set/itemid340634048/?itemtext=itemname:dmm-micro-wallnut-set
You desired other suggestions. I own a rather large selection of cams in the smallest of sizes, and they are not worth the money, or weight to even bother with them. The camming range is so small, and the placements are so finicky, that I have just wasted lots of time trying to use them, and then place a micro or two, equalize and move on. I have two that have never been climbed on, and have been on the rack for over four years now.
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sspssp
Apr 15, 2009, 5:49 PM
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I like the dmm peanuts. I have brass offsets but haven't used them for years. They are both offset. The brass ones are wedge offsets whereas the dmm's have a "tapered" offset. I find the taper tends to work better. One thing to note: since you always stick the thin side of the stopper into the crack, the wire sling tends to get bent/pick up a curve quicker than a non-offset stopper. If you are careful about cleaning (as opposed to just ripping them up by hand like I do) they last longer. They are cheap enough, however, that I don't mind cleaning them fast and throwing them away when the wires are trashed.
I also like the superlight single stems (can't remember, are these wildcountry?). The wire stem gets mangled a bit quickly, but they are light and I like being able to rotate them 90 degrees for a slightly different width placement.
The Lowe sliders/camp Ball nuts also work well, but I usually only carry these for specific needs/routes.
(This post was edited by sspssp on Apr 15, 2009, 5:54 PM)
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a-e-jones
Apr 15, 2009, 5:53 PM
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ya i have a set of ballnuts already,
i will look into the superlight rocks cheers mate
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a-e-jones
Apr 15, 2009, 5:58 PM
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ya my gut feeling is that those microwallnuts are pretty much the same as the bd stoppers 1/2/3
sorry i should of been more specific, i'm looking for really small passive protection only, like you i have a rather large share of small active pro from c3s-tcus-tricams-ballnuts
anyone favour rps over the already listed suggestions?
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antiqued
Apr 16, 2009, 1:00 AM
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It may be because I learned with them, but I really like the RPs. In a place with short irregular cracks (Gunks) the ability to put them in one way and then spin them can get placements which give me much more confidence than any offset nut.
Once they got trashed and I couldn't replace them, I picked up a couple of BD Micros - they have too high an aspect ratio to spin.
So I got the WC Superlights - I like those as well, though they don't go as small. They seem to complement RPs, with the flare and curve. But over the winter I scored some RPs on ebay.
I have no experience with the Peenuts.
It seems to me that the best nuts are the ones that match the flare angle wherever you are climbing. Then things like more nut to rock surface area become important.
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yekcir
Apr 16, 2009, 1:53 AM
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Registered: Feb 21, 2005
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I climb with the bd micros but find that the HB offsets tend to work out well when the BDs don't. They bite really well and, if placed well, you can whip on them. It's kind of a sickening feeling when you know you're about to fall on this little thing, but if the placement is sound, the #3 or bigger might hold.
I also got a set of the straight tapered RPs. They're really nice, but I haven't fallen on them yet.
Sliders/ballnuts just piss me off...
These little guys weigh nothing, so I carry a good selection because the tiny placements really require a good match to work well. The added peace of mind of having 15 or so mixed micros at hand is worth the price and the nominal weight.
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a-e-jones
Apr 16, 2009, 4:33 AM
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if it helps you http://www.mec.ca has rps you can order
thanks for the advice, i think i'll just take the dive and order a set of each (rps/offsets/peanuts) and pass on the microwallnuts
cheers everyone
(This post was edited by a-e-jones on Apr 16, 2009, 4:38 AM)
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