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best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap?
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james_va


Apr 19, 2009, 11:59 AM
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best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap?  (North_America: United_States: Pennsylvania: Northeastern_Region: Delaware_Water_Gap__Mt__Minsi_)
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Hey, Everyone --

I'm looking for the best long, very easy routes. (I posted a similar note on the NJ side). Any suggestions?

Many thanks,

-James


joeforte


Apr 20, 2009, 9:07 AM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I know it's a little harder than you're asking for, but Osprey is a long mellow 5.6. It's 3 pitches long, clean white quartzite, and mostly 5.3ish, with a move or 2 of 5.6 on each pitch. Definately worth checking out!


gimmeslack


Apr 20, 2009, 4:39 PM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Kittatinny Ridge area has several under-5.5 routes. Triumvirate 5.4 looks classy. We cruised The Rib 5.3 and it was also nice and... well, easy?


adatesman


Apr 20, 2009, 5:19 PM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I dunno about Osprey, Joe.... Seems rather stiff for someone looking for 5.3 and under as some of the moves are rather committing (pulling the roof off the 1st belay comes to mind). Heroine Hypnosis (5.5) might be a better choice as there's only one tricky move (halfway up p2).

Surprise seems like a good choice too... 2 pitches of very clean 5.4 and good gear. Needs 2 ropes to rap in a single shot, but there's a tree with rings halfway up.


mheyman


Apr 20, 2009, 6:11 PM
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Re: [adatesman] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I strongly agree with adatesman. Osprey is every bit as difficult and intimidating as the Gunks 6s I've done.

Triumverate and the Rib (3 & 4) on the NJ side - if you want to tolerate the noise on the NJ side. The Rib is very easy - a perfect first lead.

PA side Heroine and then Hell and High water - if it is safe - last I heard it had been "cleaned of anything loose".

My info is admittedly old - and I have seen Gap routes come and go as far has looseness. Note that the Gunks wouldn't be much different if it weren't so heavily climbed.


james_va


Apr 20, 2009, 7:26 PM
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Re: [mheyman] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Awesome, guys -- thanks a bunch for the replies. I'll gladly take any more suggestions, but I've also got a bunch to start with.

One more question: I've got the Michael Steele guidebook (last updated 1989) -- is there a newer one that I should get? I'll just be there for a day for now (though I'm in the vicinity a few times/year and will try to climb again), so this may do. I'm just remembering trying to climb at DWG years ago and essentially getting skunked b/c we couldn't figure out the routes from the guidebook photos quickly enough (at least it was a scenic hike...). Just want to make the most of my time there -- open to all suggestions.

Thanks!

-James


joeforte


Apr 21, 2009, 4:06 AM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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The "Rock Climbing New Jersey" has the gap, but I've heard there are a bunch or errors, such as renamed climbs ect... The pictures are decent though. I like the Steele guide myself. There is some more info on http://www.paclimbing.com , and when the guidebook is finished, it will have all of the gap in it. The first 16 climbs on the PA side are on that site, so you can get a taste of what the format will be like.

So has anyone recently climbed "Hell and High Water"? Is the top still a death trap? I was told to stay off the top of that thing, because it is too loose and dangerous. I've always wanted to climb it though, ever since I saw that exposed arete in the guidebook! Maybe I'll rap in with a crowbar someday...


forumboarder999


Apr 21, 2009, 5:43 AM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I would say Surprise on the PA side is your best bet for a nice easy climb. Easy belay ledge for the first pitch and the rap rings are right at the top. Last I heard Hell and High Water still wasn't the greatest. For the Jersey climb I would definitely recommend Triumvirate. Was on it this past Sunday and it was beautiful. The Rib isn't a bad climb either. Both those climbs have good belay ledges for the first pitch and easy rap anchors. When are you looking to climb at the gap? I'm always looking for more people to climb with.


adatesman


Apr 21, 2009, 6:57 AM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Re: Hell & High Water- Somewhat old info given the freeze/thaw thing, but 2 years ago I met a party of 3 (I forget their names, but one was Rob) went up to bolt the anchor/rap station on P3 and reported that it wasn't nearly as bad as its reputation makes it out to be. I don't recall if they had done any cleaning or not, but they did booty an old tech friend off of P2.

Unfortunately their rap station is ~10' short of reaching the ground with a pair of 60m ropes, so be warned (there's a thread about that here on RC somewhere).


(This post was edited by adatesman on Aug 29, 2010, 12:22 PM)


adatesman


Apr 21, 2009, 7:02 AM
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Re: [james_va] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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james_va wrote:
I'm just remembering trying to climb at DWG years ago and essentially getting skunked b/c we couldn't figure out the routes from the guidebook photos quickly enough (at least it was a scenic hike...). Just want to make the most of my time there -- open to all suggestions.

Yeah, it takes a while to get oriented up there. I'm usually up on the PA side once or twice a month, so depending on when you're going I may be able to show you around a bit. Just drop me a PM when you have a date in mind.

-aric.


mheyman


Apr 21, 2009, 9:15 AM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Not long after the accident I met someone up there who told me he had just taken a crowbar to HAHW and eliminated the loose stuff. When I did it (several times) more than ten years ago I found the stack that made up the first 40 ft scary. Backed off and brought new doubles back to do it.

On the same visit just after the accident I did Heroine and found that scary loose in some spots! A cliff is not fixed in time. Guess my recommendation is to find recent beta -I'll refrain from giving beta till Iíve done them again.

Added: 5.3 max? Why are we discussing HAHW?

NJ: Rib Looked at Teardrop butress once or twice - looked like it might be fun but never got around to it.


(This post was edited by mheyman on Apr 21, 2009, 4:13 PM)


joeforte


Apr 21, 2009, 3:01 PM
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Re: [mheyman] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I'll go climb them both soon with doubles and a crowbar for the second. Maybe i'll even broom off the top of osprey and voyage while I'm at it!


adatesman


Apr 21, 2009, 3:49 PM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Hey Joe,

If you need a hand give a holler and I'll come up to help. Don't know your schedule, but anytime's good for me (including weekdays).

-aric.


joeforte


Apr 21, 2009, 7:11 PM
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Re: [adatesman] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I'll let you know Aric... Anyone wanna stand at the bottom to catch the debris?


dynobelay


Apr 23, 2009, 8:17 AM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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crowbar, broom...... maybe you should take a bowsaw too; swing over to Pilgrim Forest and cut off that big branch that makes that nice 5.9 crack "easier". Wink


joeforte


Apr 23, 2009, 6:27 PM
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Re: [dynobelay] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I could have used a saw today on the Osprey/Heroine Hypnosis rap. That little birch at the top almost snagged my knot! Was anyone else up there today? I saw another party, a few climbs down. I intended on climbing Heroine Hypnosis (never been on it) and got WAY off route, on the other side of a huge arete. It was a tad loose, but not a bad climb otherwise.


forumboarder999


Apr 24, 2009, 5:38 AM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I had a similar problem getting off route at the end of the climb. Ended up on Pain Builds Character 5.10a. Just a bit difference in difficulty. Joe where did you get off route?


joeforte


Apr 24, 2009, 7:40 PM
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Re: [forumboarder999] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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I was 2 climbs to the right, on heroine hypnosis. Pain builds character is on the left of osprey, and goes up the large tiered overhangs. I've been wanting to lead that route, but the topout is so loose and grassy, I don't know how you could pull that lip. If the gear is good, I might just try it anyway and sink my fingers into some soil. Amazing things happen in dire situations!


adatesman


Apr 24, 2009, 10:10 PM
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Re: [joeforte] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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FWIW, with a bit of creativity its possible to TR Osprey/PBC (or whatever you find in between). Easiest way is leading Heroine Hypnosis and then setting it up on gear from the top with a 60m dynamic line to the climber and a 60m static line to the belayor (...er?). Last fall (Fall?) we did it with a 10.2 dynamic tied to a Beal Joker and there was a bit too much stretch. Had I brought the static line instead it would have worked much better for TR.


joeforte


Apr 25, 2009, 6:45 AM
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Re: [adatesman] best long 5.0-5.3 routes at Delaware Water Gap? [In reply to]
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Yeah, I recently heard a few guys talking about toproping a 200 ft climb with two 8.5mm doubles tied together. Sounded like a really bad idea to me!


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