Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions: First Lead at Moores

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First Lead at Moores

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CobraKy

Apr 22, 2009, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Apr 22, 2009
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First Lead at Moores (North_America: United_States: North_Carolina: Central: Moores_Wall) Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Lead "Washboard" last weekend as my first lead. I've only been climbing for 3 months, and excited to keep moving on. It's a great route and has some nice views from the belay!

johnwesely

Apr 22, 2009, 6:45 PM
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Registered: Jun 12, 2006
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Re: [CobraKy] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Keep it up.

saxfiend

Apr 22, 2009, 8:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2004
Posts: 1190

Re: [CobraKy] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

CobraKy wrote:

Lead "Washboard" last weekend as my first lead. I've only been climbing for 3 months, and excited to keep moving on. It's a great route and has some nice views from the belay!

Congratulations. I think getting down from Washboard is more challenging than the climb itself!

Next time, you should go down to the Amphitheater and lead Wailing Wall. Fantastic route for the grade.

JL

Carnage

Apr 23, 2009, 8:38 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 780

Re: [saxfiend] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

the protection on wailing wall always confuses me. All you have is super positive horizontals so i always have trouble getting stuff in. i'm a pretty noob trad climber though so there may be something im missing.

everything else of the climb is fun though. good exposure and cool climbing. the choices for raps leave a little to be desired.

to the OP, get on zoo view! its only harder cause its scarier Wink

saxfiend

Apr 23, 2009, 11:15 AM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2004
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Re: [Carnage] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Carnage wrote:

Not sure what the problem is. Those super positive horizontals are perfect for super positive cam and tricam placements (you do have tricams, right?). Wailing Wall eats all the pro you want to throw at it. Follow a more experienced leader on it and you'll see what I'm talking about.

Carnage wrote:

to the OP, get on zoo view! its only harder cause its scarier Wink

Zoo View is a fantastic route, but it's not a good choice for someone who just did their first trad lead. The OP should get way more mileage in on easier stuff before pushing the limits.

JL

MikeSaint

Apr 23, 2009, 12:18 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2007
Posts: 421

Protection on Wailing Wall [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Wailing Wall is a spectacular climb.

I found that BD C4's in sizes 2-3 are pretty sweet to have on the final bit of the climb. Double up those sizes if you really want to stitch the lead up nicely.

Carnage,

This past Thanksgiving Day did we set up a belay after moving around the arete? I know some folks do that.. cant remember. That was a cold f'in day.

(This post was edited by MikeSaint on Apr 23, 2009, 12:19 PM)

csproul

Apr 23, 2009, 2:18 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Re: [Carnage] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Carnage wrote:

Wailing Wall protects all the way up! And a hell of a lot better than Washboard if you ask me. Don't overlook Dolphin Head and Blue Balls for easy Moore's climbs. I have seen first hand what happens when inexperienced climbers pitch off the crux of Zoo View, it isn't a nice fall.

Carnage

Apr 23, 2009, 8:00 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2007
Posts: 780

Re: [csproul] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i agree the horizontals will eat the gear up, but its almost always a situations where if you were to fall on it, you'd kink the shit out of a cable. all of the stems on the horizontals would face up. i place gear cause kinking a cable is better than hitting shit on the way down, but i still dont like the felling that cables will be kinked...

mike: i did it all in one pitch. setup a belay at the top of the cliff.

charley

Apr 24, 2009, 6:57 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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Re: [Carnage] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Are hopscotch and scrambled eggs good first or easy leads. I have led hopscotch to the tree and found it decently protected and an easy climb. I haven't done scrambled eggs. I can't lead any harder than 5.4 maybe some 5.5's.

saxfiend

Apr 24, 2009, 10:00 AM
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Registered: Dec 30, 2004
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Re: [csproul] First Lead at Moores [In reply to] Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

csproul wrote:

Wailing Wall protects all the way up! And a hell of a lot better than Washboard if you ask me.

I agree, I thought Washboard was fairly unremarkable; Wailing Wall on the other hand is a spectacular 5.6 -- fun climbing, excellent protection, great exposure.

csproul wrote:

Don't overlook Dolphin Head and Blue Balls for easy Moore's climbs.

I don't know Blue Balls, but Dolphin Head is another one I wouldn't put a new leader on.

JL

(This post was edited by saxfiend on Apr 24, 2009, 10:02 AM)