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keepitcreative


Apr 28, 2009, 8:32 AM
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Squamish Trip
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Hey guys. I'm heading to Squamish for a two weeks bouldering trip at the end of June. I've read a lot of stuff about what to do in Squamish, where to sleep, what are the classic bouldlers, etc. I just wanted to know, for those who have been there, how did you like your trip ? What are the classics i shoudn't miss(V0 to V7-V8) ? What to do during off days ?What's the cheapest place to sleep( no camping, i found somethingf at 30$/night, but wanted to know if there's something cheaper), etc. Please don't bring me sites with informations, I've read them all, I want your opinion. Would be grealty appreciated!


(This post was edited by keepitcreative on Apr 28, 2009, 8:35 AM)


coastal_climber


Apr 28, 2009, 8:38 AM
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Re: [keepitcreative] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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Only bouldering? Your selling yourself short...

I'm guessing your staying at the Squamish Hostel/Inn on the Water? Nice place.

Howe sound brewery isn't a bad place to have dinner, lots of trails too.


scottek67


Apr 28, 2009, 8:44 AM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
Only bouldering? You're selling yourself short...

I agree! bring a rope and a couple draws and you won't boulder ever again.


Climbing_Pink


Apr 28, 2009, 9:12 AM
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Re: [keepitcreative] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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Went out there last year. Camped by the forest, prolly at the same place you're looking at since it was ~10 a day per person.

I agree with the two previous replies, the crack climbing there is unreal, and tonnes of multi-pitch.

I found we did most of our bouldering at the end of the day when we were done climbing, and it quality. The only bouldering problems I remember are Trad Killer, it's this huge slab, think it's a V4, Shots Fired, which is by the road..also a V4 I think, maybe higher. And Surfing on Heroin, can't remember where it is, think it's a V2...wasn't that great.

Have fun and get one of those huuuuge beers from the brew pub


kriso9tails


Apr 28, 2009, 4:24 PM
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Re: [scottek67] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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scottek67 wrote:
coastal_climber wrote:
Only bouldering? You're selling yourself short...

I agree! bring a rope and a couple draws and you won't boulder ever again.

I might buy that if you had said 'rack' instead of just draws.


caliclimbergrl


Apr 28, 2009, 5:32 PM
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Re: [keepitcreative] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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I have a friend who says bouldering at Squamish is like masturbating in a brothel.


granite_grrl


Apr 28, 2009, 6:14 PM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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Why do I have a feeling that I know who that friend is. Angelic

heh, I took a boulder girl out route climbing last summer. You should have seen how pissed she was when I used the same line.


caliclimbergrl


Apr 28, 2009, 7:35 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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LOL.

I have friends that boulder too. In all honesty, I have nothing but respect for the sport though I don't really enjoy it myself. So my boulder friends and I have friendly debates and try to sway each other to the kind of climbing we prefer. So I do use the phrase sometimes, but it's all friendly banter.

Though really, I don't see how someone could spend all their time bouldering in Squamish looking up at the Chief in all it's majesty. But I love crack climbing, I love multi-pitch climbing, and I love Squamish ... I may be a bit biased!


coastal_climber


Apr 28, 2009, 11:07 PM
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Re: [caliclimbergrl] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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remember: the boulders are just rejects of the grand wall.


tradrenn


Apr 29, 2009, 1:27 AM
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Re: [granite_grrl] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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granite_grrl wrote:
Why do I have a feeling that I know who that friend is. Angelic




hafilax


Apr 29, 2009, 1:09 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
remember: the boulders are just rejects of the grand wall.
The Split Pillar will make a hell of a lot of new problems. Wink

I'm having a hard time answering a post that says "I know everything already but tell me some more anyway." so here's my ramblings that hopefully aren't a waste of time.

The bouldering in Squamish is great and I have a lot of friends that almost exclusively boulder. Be ready for lots of mantles, heel hooks and aretes. I don't have much to add as to good routes other than to say that the classics in the guide are great but see a lot of traffic and are getting a bit polished. The Sharma problems are popular for some reason...

That said, most visiting boulderers end up hooking up with someone for at least one day of roped climbing if they're there long enough. If you can get a rope, draws and a set of cams you can do the 18 pitch climb/scramble to the top of the chief, Stairway to Heaven. The Upper Black Dike was cleaned up and bolted this winter so it's good to go. The UBD topo is on squamishclimbing.com and Stairway to Heaven is in the latest McLane guide (but you knew that already). Tongue Pet Wall and Check have great sport climbing. Star Chek is a sweet little 3 pitch 5.9 sport route out of Cheakamus Canyon.

For days off I'd mostly hike or XC bike. Hike the Chief, Elfin Lakes, Garibaldi Lake and the Black Tusk. If you're really ambitious Skypilot if you have an ice ax. There are tonnes of great XC trails if you can get a bike.

I've never been but have been told that the Britannia mine is a cool tour. Mountain Woman has killer fish&chips as does Wiggan's Pier. The Shady Tree is a nice change from the Brewpub. Bean Around the World makes a mean espresso. Lots of good little restaurants on the main drag and even the Chinese food isn't half bad.


camhead


Apr 29, 2009, 2:55 PM
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Re: [hafilax] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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Just because there are scads of incredible routes at Squamish does not make the bouldering any less classic; don't listen to the masturbation/brothel people! I am not an exclusive boulderer, but if I was, Squamish would be a destination for just bouldering.

Problems that I enjoyed were Viper (v5/6), Wafer Thin (v4), and Easy in the Easy Chair (v4, probably the most popular problem there). There was also a very cool v3-ish slab that followed up a dike in a boulder. Don't remember the name, though.

For non-climbing, there is an excellent sushi place a bit north of town, can't remember what it was called, though.


mar_leclerc


Apr 29, 2009, 2:57 PM
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Undertow (V7)
and Teenage Lobotomy (v7)


hafilax


Apr 29, 2009, 4:51 PM
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Re: [camhead] Squamish Trip [In reply to]
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camhead wrote:
There was also a very cool v3-ish slab that followed up a dike in a boulder. Don't remember the name, though.
Cheese Grater?


pTrick


Apr 29, 2009, 9:15 PM
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The bouldering in Squamish is awesome! There are tons of great routes, sport, trad, steep and slab. But if bouldering is your thing, you'll never get bored here. I'm not sure about cheap places to stay, but there are a lot of great food choices now. Chef Big D's has great breakfasts and lunches. If you want something healthy and hip, Zephyr is where all the cool kids are hanging out these days. Just look for Cleveland Ave for most things you'll need. The Brew Pub has way overpriced food that isn't very good to begin with, but it's where the climbers go to drink great beer. (just eat before you go there).

For problems, I recommend Swank Stretch (v5) Superfly (v4), Viper(v5), Golden Boy (v7) Tatonka (v8). I really recommend just touring the forest and grand wall area, and looking at all the boulders. There are so many amazing problems that aren't in any guidebook (yet).


erica


May 11, 2009, 9:45 AM
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I do hear great things about the bouldering, but when i was there, I was too mesmerized by the Chief to pay attention to those little rocks down below. :) But to each his/her own. It seems there's a little something for everyone up there!

I went with my husband this past summer and we finished up just after lunch one day on the Chief and decided to be lazy the rest of the afternoon and found a nice lake to swim/float around in further up towards whistler. Not sure what it was called but it was just after the tantalus lookout pulloff.

OH, and definitely don't forget to reward yourself from a hard days climbing by stopping at the Gelato place in town! I think we went there almost every day... the dulce de leche is the best!!!
Have a fantastic trip - hopefully you'll have good weather!


irregularpanda


May 11, 2009, 10:00 AM
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Climbing_Pink wrote:
Have fun and get one of those huuuuge beers from the brew pub

Those beers aren't that good.

Try tim's sloper problem-5
Thighmaster-7
easy in an easy chair-4
the egg-v4++ (apparently that makes it a v-9?!?)
Timeless-4

Also, if you go to squamish and you don't climb superfly, you fail.


keepitcreative


May 19, 2009, 12:02 PM
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I have another question. Is the Shuttle Bus between Vancouver and Squamish the only solution to get there ? It's pretty expansive :S


serac


May 19, 2009, 12:41 PM
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You can catch a greyhound from downtown vancouver to downtown Squamish. There is a city bus from the airport to downtown. Hitchhiking back to vancouver is not too bad but getting out of Vancouver now that they have changed the highway is horrible.

The campground is a 20-30 min walk from downtown Squamish. You can buy a relatively cheap bicycle from Climb On and assuming you haven't trashed it they will buy it back. It makes the groceries, pubs, and lakes even Murrin park much easier to get to.


hafilax


May 19, 2009, 12:58 PM
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The Greyhound is $13. Are you talking about the Perimeter Bus from the airport?

It's not too difficult to get public transit from the airport to the Greyhound station. You should be able to figure it out from http://www.translink.bc.ca/.


keepitcreative


May 19, 2009, 1:19 PM
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Thanks for the info =)


byrondavis


May 21, 2009, 9:18 AM
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V0- Black Dyke, Dyke Surfer
V1- Cheesegrater, Largonian Bulge
V2- Option B, Up from the depths
V3- Double Decker, Titanic
V4- Kung Fu Fighter, Skin Graft (Greasy chair is gross)
V5- It's about time, Tim's Slopers
V6- Lounge Act, The Squeeze
V7- ATD, Corrupted


Gelada


May 21, 2009, 12:39 PM
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Was just killin time with stabs of the left mouse button and came upon this:

http://community.deadpointmag.com/videos/id_73/title_Squamish-Bouldering/

Has many of the suggested problems in it.


keepitcreative


May 21, 2009, 2:40 PM
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Thanks guys !
BTW, are there any daily fees to climb there ?


Khoi


May 21, 2009, 3:50 PM
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keepitcreative wrote:
Thanks guys !
BTW, are there any daily fees to climb there ?

No.

And hopefully there never will be any.

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