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Leading at your top?
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desertwanderer81


May 5, 2009, 9:01 AM
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Leading at your top?
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OK, so I have been climbing for many years now, and I can still only lead stuff that I would almost feel comfortable free soloing. I know my ability levels. I know what I am capable of. But for some reason I can only lead stuff which is easy for me! It's like some sort of mental block.

I am sure there are a lot of people who are in the same boat as me but I also know of a lot of people who lead at levels which they can follow cleanly on!

How do you get your head in the game?


jamesellis


May 9, 2009, 9:50 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Leading at your top? [In reply to]
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Read the book after which this forum is named.


d0nk3yk0n9


May 10, 2009, 2:12 PM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Leading at your top? [In reply to]
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I've had this problem until very recently. And by very recently, I mean that I just got over it on Saturday. What I found I had to do was force myself to "just do it", to get into a situation where my only reasonable option (from a mental standpoint) was to climb the route. You see, regionals for SCS was yesterday, and I'm in Youth Junior, which means that I have to lead some of the routes. Since I wasn't about to back down at an onsight comp and say that I couldn't do it because I'd never even TR'd anything that hard, I just geared myself up for it mentally and went for it, commiting to every move as much as possible. Naturally, I didn't send either of the two lead routes, but I enjoyed myself a lot more once I let myself relax and just go for it. It was an interesting experience, as I was both pushing myself and getting pumped up mentally and totally relaxed at the same time.


arnoilgner


Jun 13, 2009, 7:01 AM
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Re: [desertwanderer81] Leading at your top? [In reply to]
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hello desertwanderer81,
seems like the fall consequence is keeping you from pushing past what your mind thinks you can do. you could get on some vertical/slightly overhanging sport routes to push yourself where the fall is clean. can also get some falling practice.
but, at some point you must keep pushing yourself even when your mind resists.
arno


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