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Scouting out the area, western NY
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heidt410


May 5, 2009, 2:03 PM
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Scouting out the area, western NY  (North_America: United_States: New_York: Western_New_York)
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I'm determined to find some decent climbing in Western NY this summer... for one, Panama Rocks allows climbing (they did last year), which is near Jamestown... I know for certain there is rock in and around Salamanca ski resorts, there has to be some spots worthwhile of posting on here if they are accessible. Im from Erie, but if I find anything I will post.


zwillia1


Aug 21, 2009, 9:44 AM
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Re: [heidt410] Scouting out the area, western NY [In reply to]
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hey,

i was on a similar pursuit, have been for about a year. i have found some great stuff in allegany state park. if your still down to do some climbing, send me an email. zwillia1@ithaca.edu

zach


zac2944


Aug 26, 2009, 10:13 AM
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I too am on this journey to find more climbing in WNY. I just moved to Rochester from Boston, and only know about Niagara, Moss Island (Little Falls), Nine Corner Lake bouldering, and some new crags being developed near Nine Corner (about 10 minutes drive away) called Lost T cliffs. I'm down for any sort of exploration.


chrixkid


Sep 15, 2009, 10:54 AM
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Anyone been climbing in WNY???? I basically go out each weekend scouting new stuff...


randyb


Sep 15, 2009, 11:17 AM
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 Western NY native living in Colorado. I haven't climbed back there... but had to comment on my football team. What a tough loss for the Bills ARGH. Don't mean to hijack your post just tired of the soul stealing losses.


armsrforclimbing


Sep 15, 2009, 12:15 PM
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The best climbing in WNY is actually in Canada.

Check out the climbing along the Niagara Escarpment: Nemo, Buffalo Crag, Rattlesnake etc...


armsrforclimbing


Sep 15, 2009, 12:16 PM
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You'll have better luck scouting out ice climbing. All the shale in the parks makes for lousy rock, but great ice.


zac2944


Sep 15, 2009, 1:08 PM
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Where exactly have you been scouting?


zac2944


Sep 15, 2009, 1:10 PM
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randyb wrote:
Western NY native living in Colorado. I haven't climbed back there... but had to comment on my football team. What a tough loss for the Bills ARGH. Don't mean to hijack your post just tired of the soul stealing losses.

Tough? That was losing as only the Bills can do it. They really like to do it on Monday nights too.

It is tough being a Bills fan.Frown


zwillia1


Sep 16, 2009, 10:29 AM
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to anyone interested in this thread-

so, we ought to define "western." if your looking for rock in the corridor of ithaca and syracuse, you out of luck. but, using ithaca as a center point (that's where i live), a 2 hour drive will get you to some decent stuff in any direction.

east will get you to little falls and nine corners. little falls isn't bad, and i've never check out nine corners, but i hear good things if you're into bouldering.

south will get you into the wellsboro, pa area, yielding trips to blue run rocks and rock run (both places are listed on here). either of these spots is great for a quiet day trip with friends, and are definitely the closest from my location. i'm also guessing that someone with some time could find a lot more than is listed here.

which brings me to west. this summer i have been doing some scouting and light developing around the allegany state park area, out near olean and salamanca. to be honest, this is some of the most fun rock i have ever pulled on. none of the areas i have found are incredibly extensive, but the rock yields very dynamic and fun climbing. think v3 out of almost dead-horizontal roofs. we've put up around 10 problems so far, with some projects in the works. i've talked to park officials, and they've been plenty supportive of the climbing. with that said, i was very proactive with them, which they greatly appreciated. if anyone wants more information on this area, please contact me. i would love to see other people climbing around here, but for now, it needs to be kept quiet and done right. i'm not trying to horde anything, but i do want to have dialogue amongst the people wanting to climb here.
my email address is zwillia1@ithaca.edu

also- me and some friends will be climbing in allegany on friday evening and saturday this weekend (9/18-19). send me an email and maybe we can meet up.

Zach


chrixkid


Sep 17, 2009, 5:48 AM
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zwillia1 wrote:
to anyone interested in this thread-

so, we ought to define "western." if your looking for rock in the corridor of ithaca and syracuse, you out of luck. but, using ithaca as a center point (that's where i live), a 2 hour drive will get you to some decent stuff in any direction.

Zach

I personally was considering the finger lake region, south of the thruway, over to buffalo and then south to PA. So - I think Allegany counts!!


zwillia1


Sep 17, 2009, 7:36 AM
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Yessir.

Allegany really does have some fun stuff. Again- most of the areas I checked out are on this site, and really aren't a "secret" other than that no one has expressed excitement in them. There is some great climbing here, but the idea is to be smart. Thunder Rocks, where we've put up the most problems, can get pretty crowed with tourists on the weekends (during the summer, I've been told it drops off drastically in the fall, and this Saturday will judge that), so its important to climb smart. I went out and bought rock-colored chalked, and we generally try to escape to the "bear caves" during the peak tourist hours. With that said, if you get there early, you will have great temps and run of the place.

Another note- nothing we have done has been legitimately named or graded. We obviously use "names" to refer to certain things, and grades as a general mark of difficulty, but its not something I'm super interested in. The cleaning and climbing is far more fun than naming and grading. However, in case your wondering, we've put up stuff ranging from about v0-v4, with two specific projects in the works that look to go at about v5/6 and a hard v6 or easy 7. I would really love to share this stuff with people, and we are going to be there on Saturday, so if anyone is interested, please stop through. If I have some time, I might try to make a simple little "map," just to give people an idea of what has already been cleaned and the lines we've found that are the most fun. One of the problems done was a roof problem that goes around v3, and is just awesome. There's an extension to it that is one of the projects now, which will be just as cool.

Anyone who wants to meet up, let me know or send me an email (address listed above). We normally get there pretty early in the morning, so that we can be climbing by around 9am.

Be well,
Zach


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