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Tactix23
May 9, 2009, 8:53 PM
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Couldn't really think of a good title. It's not actually an off day, but more like my buddy and I go to the gym tues,thursday and friday. He can't make it out sundays but I would like to go just because that is when I have off from work. Now I've climbed about 5 times now and I have completed everything that is 5.7 and under as well as two 5.8s. Now the ratings at this gym are definitely off but my problem is that everything 5.8 and above (except the two I beat) are WAY harder than the 5.7s. I'm talking like I can barely get past the beginning because my grip isn't good enough. Lots of crimps from the getgo. Now I figured sunday could be my day to do some one man stuff for grip. Would you recommend I climb the freehand wall or whatever with the fall pads? I know you guys won't recommend me doing grip workouts at home right? thanks
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angry
May 9, 2009, 8:55 PM
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Are you really asking us how to work your grip when you've got a day alone?
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Tactix23
May 9, 2009, 10:58 PM
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Um yeah. whats the problem with that? since when do I need a partner to climb 3 feet in the air on the freehand wall? godammit you guys have bad attitudes around here I just gotta reiterate and say you guys have some really shitty attitudes on here. all the people I have met through rock climbing in person are nice and helpful but this site is just filled with douche bags. You're telling me there is no way I can train on sunday? That I should sit at home or go out to a bar instead? And if the answer is no, then explain.
(This post was edited by Tactix23 on May 9, 2009, 11:03 PM)
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Tactix23
May 9, 2009, 11:05 PM
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can anyone here tell me what is the best way to train grip on a sunday? Should I climb the freehand wall (or whatever you call it, where you don't need a belayer and it has pads under it) or should I use hangboard? or do deadlifts. or what
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Tactix23
May 9, 2009, 11:35 PM
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I think I'll go and try and boulder and do some traversing maybe practicing traversing heels first or toes first only
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suilenroc
May 9, 2009, 11:45 PM
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Tactix23 wrote: Um yeah. whats the problem with that? since when do I need a partner to climb 3 feet in the air on the freehand wall? godammit you guys have bad attitudes around here I just gotta reiterate and say you guys have some really shitty attitudes on here. all the people I have met through rock climbing in person are nice and helpful but this site is just filled with douche bags. You're telling me there is no way I can train on sunday? That I should sit at home or go out to a bar instead? And if the answer is no, then explain. Chill. The only "bad attitude" i see here is yours. The way angry worded his response is quite comical. Thats exactly what my reply was to. work your grip, alone... haha i still get a kick out of this!
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no_email_entered
May 9, 2009, 11:59 PM
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i was totally working my grip--- ---until i read this thread [anyone got any good pics of hot slopers? i'm only pumped out on one arm]
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Tactix23
May 10, 2009, 12:22 AM
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How do I have a bad attitude when I asked a simple question? And how old are you that you get a kick out of being a douche bag? I obviously know nothing Either help me out or waste someone else's time. Why the fuck are you here if you have nothing to contribute? Are you just as bad as me and are only here to learn? if that is the case, get the fuck out. If you actually can help, then help. If you dont want to help, well once again get the fuck out stop being a wise ass. be a fucking man, and answer my question so I can't train doing a boulder by myself? So why do i always see people bouldering in the gym by themselves?
(This post was edited by Tactix23 on May 10, 2009, 12:23 AM)
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Tactix23
May 10, 2009, 12:24 AM
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angry wrote: Tactix23 wrote: can anyone here tell me what is the best way to train grip on a sunday? Stop making this so easy. nice hat you fucking faggot haha
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krosbakken
May 10, 2009, 12:33 AM
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Fine you want a real answer to your question. here you go. Yes, if you don't have a partner go and boulder. It will help your strength and hopefully get you up those "super hard" 5.8s. Now chill out and don't make such a big deal when people give you shit on the interenet. It happens.... a lot.
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Tactix23
May 10, 2009, 12:38 AM
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krosbakken wrote: Fine you want a real answer to your question. here you go. Yes, if you don't have a partner go and boulder. It will help your strength and hopefully get you up those "super hard" 5.8s. Now chill out and don't make such a big deal when people give you shit on the interenet. It happens.... a lot. I can take a joke man. But you know how annoying and petty that is for someone who knows a lot to fuck with someone who knows nothing? There is a difference to me laughing at his gay hat and his clown pants compared to his bullshit. Whatever. Thanks guy
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marc801
May 10, 2009, 1:04 AM
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Tactix23 wrote: I can take a joke man. But you know how annoying and petty that is for someone who knows a lot to fuck with someone who knows nothing? There is a difference to me laughing at his gay hat and his clown pants compared to his bullshit. Whatever. Thanks guy I can't take it any more... Tactix, you might be able to take a joke, but you sure can't see one when it's staring you in the face. Hand grip...alone...sunday... Do we really have to spell it out for you?
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suilenroc
May 10, 2009, 1:28 AM
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this has got to be a troll... no one this stupid would be able to setup an account on rc.com. or am i wrong?
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suilenroc
May 10, 2009, 1:29 AM
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krosbakken wrote: Fine you want a real answer to your question. here you go. Yes, if you don't have a partner go and boulder. It will help your strength and hopefully get you up those "super hard" 5.8s. Now chill out and don't make such a big deal when people give you shit on the interenet. It happens.... a lot. Best statement in this thread.
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Tactix23
May 10, 2009, 1:51 AM
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I got the joke. ha ha jerking off I just don't get why I had to call this guy a faggot for someone to actually help me.
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rtwilli4
May 10, 2009, 3:18 AM
Post #18 of 54
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The reason people are giving you shit is that you obviously want to learn all the basics on the internet so you can go to the gym and not look like a n00b. Well... I got news for ya. You're gonna get way more shit here for being a n00b than you will at the gym cuz everyone there is a dork. We were all gumbies once... just go meet some people at the gym and learn the basics. Then when you have a real question, come back here and maybe someone will help you. PS... there is no such thing as "freehand" rock climbing. There is this though: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eAhfZUZiwSE
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seatbeltpants
May 10, 2009, 5:06 AM
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Tactix23 wrote: stop being a wise ass. be a fucking man, and answer my question this made me feel bad - i'm sorry i laughed at your previous posts. bouldering is probably the best thing you can do to improve your hand strength when you don't have anyone to belay you. please don't say bad words any more. steve
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angry
May 10, 2009, 5:44 AM
Post #20 of 54
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I bought that hat when I was 17, lifeguarding at the lake. I remember the day I bought it, I saw it in the mall and thought it would be great to keep the sun off but didn't really like the $20 price tag. Over the years, it paid for itself many times over. It's been down the Thunder River trail on the Grand Canyon twice, once when I was 18, another when I was 29. It's been up Big Rock Candy Mountain, most of the routes in Vedauwoo and the South Platte. It's been up about anything in Yosemite that I didn't wear a helmet on. Most importantly, it's been up many Indian Creek routes in blazing sun. It effectively extended my creek season. Such a simple thing. It's protected me from the rain and the sun. It had a Pearl Izumi and Powerbar patch I sewed onto it. It had a little burn where I was messing around with a magnifying glass. It disappeared this fall. Maybe at the Devils Head, maybe at the Red Slab, maybe in Lindsey's car. I don't know. I just know it will be missed. I replaced it with a similar hat from REI not long ago. Instead of heavy cotton canvas, it's waterproof, breathable, packable, and sun resistant nylon. It's got some great vents and a stiffer brim. All at probably 1/6 the weight. In every way it's better. Every time I wear it, I miss my hat and hope by some stroke of luck that I reunite with it someday.
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totaled108
May 11, 2009, 4:25 AM
Post #21 of 54
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Registered: Sep 18, 2008
Posts: 10
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angry wrote: I bought that hat when I was 17, lifeguarding at the lake. I remember the day I bought it, I saw it in the mall and thought it would be great to keep the sun off but didn't really like the $20 price tag. Over the years, it paid for itself many times over. It's been down the Thunder River trail on the Grand Canyon twice, once when I was 18, another when I was 29. It's been up Big Rock Candy Mountain, most of the routes in Vedauwoo and the South Platte. It's been up about anything in Yosemite that I didn't wear a helmet on. Most importantly, it's been up many Indian Creek routes in blazing sun. It effectively extended my creek season. Such a simple thing. It's protected me from the rain and the sun. It had a Pearl Izumi and Powerbar patch I sewed onto it. It had a little burn where I was messing around with a magnifying glass. It disappeared this fall. Maybe at the Devils Head, maybe at the Red Slab, maybe in Lindsey's car. I don't know. I just know it will be missed. I replaced it with a similar hat from REI not long ago. Instead of heavy cotton canvas, it's waterproof, breathable, packable, and sun resistant nylon. It's got some great vents and a stiffer brim. All at probably 1/6 the weight. In every way it's better. Every time I wear it, I miss my hat and hope by some stroke of luck that I reunite with it someday. [image]http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p316/angrywetsuit/DSC01896e.jpg[/image] I didn't even know this hat and I too miss it. I hope you bond grows strong with this one.
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USnavy
May 11, 2009, 7:06 AM
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Spend your off day finding another partner so you dont need to take an off day.
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mushroom
May 14, 2009, 6:17 AM
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get the fuck out of the gym, it's spring/summer ???
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OliverBlow
May 20, 2009, 4:53 AM
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Im sorry i could not post an answer sooner Tactix. You have to understand that the range of people on this site is wide and varied. A good deal of the members spend a lot of time at home (Not climbing) and answering questions like these with "Jokes" like the ones already posted. Dont pay attention to them, in general the long term low post members are the good, nice members. On to your question. Your gym is quite obviously rating things very low and incorectly, i would suggest you get a friend to take you on a day of face climbing in the 5.7/5.8/5.9 range and then you will know what a true 5.7 feels like. To me, still a teen and I have been climbing Trad for 1 year, gym for 3 and a 5.7 is easily done without shoes (Bare feet) and smooth, slow movements. You should be able to no-hands rest. I know personaly that most easy 5.7's i, and my climbing partner are able to walk up no hands or "Campus" without feet. 5.7 is a very easy grade, you should by no means be struggling. To work on your grip on an off day there are many things to do. Because you are relatively new to the sport i would suggest staying away from things like campus boards, hang boards, rigorous sets of pull-ups and any other exercise that may permanently damage your tendons or just put you out for a few weeks. I would rather tell you to boulder at your home gym without a spotter, bring along a bag of chalk and your shoes. Spend the day working on lots of V0 routes. Just get your hours in at V0's and after your break for lunch or a snack try working at your redpoint area. (Go for stuff that you will fall 3 or 4 times on but will finish at the end. You want to finish it and get the satisfaction) Traverses are good and I always try and use as chunky of holds as i can, use your legs. If you are training on the other hand keep your but low, arms/elbows locked out and straight to use mainly your fingers and grip. Go outside, play around at the bouldering areas. Invest in a mat if you have the cash or shoot for really easy stuff and put in a LOT of climbs. When your this early on in the sport you really only need milage. After 2 months of solid 3 days a week of full-on climbing, 1 training day you should start worrying about more technique training and some more advance techniques as mentioned earlier. If you start feeling the burn in your tendons or in your wrist have a staff member tape them or show you how to lower the risk of injuring a tendon. Tendons are not like muscles in that they do not get stronger as they are used and as they wear. Taping your fingers and wrists on a training day is a good idea if they start to hurt. Ask a staff member how, get their opinion if you need it or not and then get yourself a roll to do it yourself later. Give me a PM or email me if you have any other questions. Remember, no matter what the crowd when you have this many members a good number of them will be rotten. A bigger batch of tomatoes will have more rotten ones, no matter what the brand.
(This post was edited by OliverBlow on May 20, 2009, 4:59 AM)
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Physicist
May 20, 2009, 2:06 PM
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OliverBlow wrote: Im sorry i could not post an answer sooner Tactix. You have to understand that the range of people on this site is wide and varied. A good deal of the members spend a lot of time at home (Not climbing) and answering questions like these with "Jokes" like the ones already posted. Dont pay attention to them, in general the long term low post members are the good, nice members. On to your question. Your gym is quite obviously rating things very low and incorectly, i would suggest you get a friend to take you on a day of face climbing in the 5.7/5.8/5.9 range and then you will know what a true 5.7 feels like. To me, still a teen and I have been climbing Trad for 1 year, gym for 3 and a 5.7 is easily done without shoes (Bare feet) and smooth, slow movements. You should be able to no-hands rest. I know personaly that most easy 5.7's i, and my climbing partner are able to walk up no hands or "Campus" without feet. 5.7 is a very easy grade, you should by no means be struggling. To work on your grip on an off day there are many things to do. Because you are relatively new to the sport i would suggest staying away from things like campus boards, hang boards, rigorous sets of pull-ups and any other exercise that may permanently damage your tendons or just put you out for a few weeks. I would rather tell you to boulder at your home gym without a spotter, bring along a bag of chalk and your shoes. Spend the day working on lots of V0 routes. Just get your hours in at V0's and after your break for lunch or a snack try working at your redpoint area. (Go for stuff that you will fall 3 or 4 times on but will finish at the end. You want to finish it and get the satisfaction) Traverses are good and I always try and use as chunky of holds as i can, use your legs. If you are training on the other hand keep your but low, arms/elbows locked out and straight to use mainly your fingers and grip. Go outside, play around at the bouldering areas. Invest in a mat if you have the cash or shoot for really easy stuff and put in a LOT of climbs. When your this early on in the sport you really only need milage. After 2 months of solid 3 days a week of full-on climbing, 1 training day you should start worrying about more technique training and some more advance techniques as mentioned earlier. If you start feeling the burn in your tendons or in your wrist have a staff member tape them or show you how to lower the risk of injuring a tendon. Tendons are not like muscles in that they do not get stronger as they are used and as they wear. Taping your fingers and wrists on a training day is a good idea if they start to hurt. Ask a staff member how, get their opinion if you need it or not and then get yourself a roll to do it yourself later. Give me a PM or email me if you have any other questions. Remember, no matter what the crowd when you have this many members a good number of them will be rotten. A bigger batch of tomatoes will have more rotten ones, no matter what the brand. I'm pretty sure you're either climbing the softest 5.7s ever or they're all slab climbs, which won't require hands. I don't really see how you're going to campus a vertical or slightly overhanging 5.7, or even most 5.7 cracks. It's also a bit callous to tell a beginner that he shouldn't have any problems climbing a 5.7. It would be like me telling a 10 year old he shouldn't have any problem taking derivatives of trig functions, since it's so easy.
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