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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 3:47 PM
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Hey, we're all weekend warriors to some degree, right? I know, there's some of us who are out there climbing full time with no regard for the days of the week, those few scant days off from work, or time in general. But most of us have to deal with this and only get a few days per month outside of the annual trips to climb.
Post up your daily juice, because you know there are just as many good and bad days on the weekends as there are on bigger trips.
My first day out is here: Plugging for the first time without shoes
Seriously, I want to hear how people get out for just a day trip. It's as if you're writing a letter; there's not much to say until you start saying it, and then you realize you've said so much more than expected.
Did you get scared off your normal warmup? Did you send that crappy, broken arrete in your neighbor's yard that you've been staring at for years but never had the courage to cross the street, ignore your neighbor's plea for you to return the lawn mower, and climb the damn thing? Or did you simply get out and enjoy the sun in peace?
This is the thread for day-to-day.
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epoch
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May 18, 2009, 5:18 PM
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I will not read your blog.
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 5:21 PM
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Cheers! Thanks!
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uni_jim
May 18, 2009, 5:37 PM
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good read
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 5:47 PM
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Thanks man.
I'm sure I'll be the only person posting up for a while, but I do hope some folks post their weekend stories here. I think it would be fun to read.
So if you've got anything...
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shockabuku
May 18, 2009, 5:59 PM
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Yesterday my daughter, son, and I went out to the Crystal Wall in Poudre Canyon. It's a short approach (~10 min) and we saw one party there when we arrived with their dog Clyde. Clyde seemed to like our stuff throughout the day but as he was really pretty easy to get along with I didn't feel like bashing in his head with a rock like I often do with people's loud, obnoxious canines.
Anyway, we warmed up on a single pitch 5.9, I think 4 or 5 bolts then the anchor, on the typically square cut granite in this area. My daughter put it up, my son TRed it, then we pulled the rope and I lead it and cleaned the anchor.
Then we moved over to a 5.11 b or c that I had tried once the previous year and had fallen from close to the anchors and which my daughter (who is freaked by anything not overhanging, but generally climbs about a whole number grade better than I do) bailed from after the 2nd or 3rd bolt. So anyway, I sent this time with the technical part of the crux going very smoothly but with a little bit of concern at the power part of the crux, anyway I forced through. My son didn't want to do it, so my daughter got on. She got to the part where she had bailed last year and then remembered the climb. It was pretty funny since she wasn't real thrilled but she pushed through. She had some trouble working through the thin, slightly less than vertical parts and so got to the crux and fell while trying to figure out the sequence. After a couple of attempts trying to figure it out she finished it off with a much smoother effort than mine.
From there we moved to the overhanging routes on the end of the formation (~5.12b) and scoped out a line we hadn't tried before. These routes, which are on a face at about 90 degrees to the main face, have a very different character and tend to be vertically striated with lots of sidepulls but not as good ledges. It looked do-able so my daughter tied in and gave it a try. She climbed two bolts, then dogged the rest of the way up figuring out the beta on the way. For a first attempt at that grade it went fairly well. She lowered and while we were changing over my son decided to take a practice fall, from a boulder in the middle of the scree field that will now be known as "Grace", while he was trying to take some photos for his photography class. Somehow, after his rather spectacular headfirst "Fall from Grace", he managed not to cause serious injury to either himself or his camera so after cleaning up some scrapes and minor cuts, we got back to climbing. My turn, and it punished me. I climbed through the first two bolts (on TR), hung for a while, unclipped the third, tried about 6 times to make the move and couldn't do it, then jammed myself in the chimney to the side of the route and flailed up to a good hold where I could unclip the next draw, flailed around some more, and about 5 minutes later finally made it to the anchor (15 ft away). I was pretty beat after that and it was getting late so we went home. Very nice day, just a little warm.
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 6:17 PM
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Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?
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cracklover
May 18, 2009, 6:29 PM
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Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.
GO
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 6:45 PM
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cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO
I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.
I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.
Thanks for the support, and of course I am always looking to increase readership, but I do have a solid base of regular readers. I'd honestly like to read more from others. Part of this is because I'm trying to get a greater sense of storytelling from ordinary people. I have a belief that there's a lot more interesting stories out there than the glamorous, epic, and glorified accounts that are spoonfed to us. I'm hoping to learn something from this.
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shockabuku
May 18, 2009, 6:52 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?
No, he was squatting down trying to get a picture on the top of the boulder. The top of it is a pretty narrow ridge and he lost his balance just as he was ready to use the camera. It's a shame he didn't get another half second because he had just switched the camera to video but hadn't pushed the start button yet. Anyway, I heard a bunch of cursing and looked over to see him rolling over the edge of the rock with the camera held up in the air. If I hadn't been so worried that he was going to break his head it would have been pretty funny.
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 6:57 PM
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shockabuku wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst? No, he was squatting down trying to get a picture on the top of the boulder. The top of it is a pretty narrow ridge and he lost his balance just as he was ready to use the camera. It's a shame he didn't get another half second because he had just switched the camera to video but hadn't pushed the start button yet. Anyway, I heard a bunch of cursing and looked over to see him rolling over the edge of the rock with the camera held up in the air. If I hadn't been so worried that he was going to break his head it would have been pretty funny.
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kennoyce
May 18, 2009, 7:43 PM
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I don't know if this counts since it wasn't technically the weekend, but here it goes anyways.
last tuesday the 12th of may a couple of good friends were coming up north from arazona to visit family, and decided that we should meet up in maple canyon for a bit of climbing. I was going to hitch a ride from a couple of other friends but they called me at 7:30 (our scheduled departure time) and told me that they had just woken up. Since they have 2 kids I decided that I didn't want to wait for them to get ready, so I headed out on my own. By nine am I had arrived at maple canyon and as always was in awe of the amazing cobblestone walls.
I quickly located my friends from arazona's campsite and helped them pack up and get ready for some climbing. This last semester in school has been extremely time consuming, which means that I'm a weakling and have no endurance, so we decided to start out at orangutan wall since there are several easy long climbs on it.
We arrived at the wall, and since I had just pro-dealed some new draws, my friends graciously allowed me the first lead of the day. I jumped on a very fun sustained 5.9 that's a full 100 feet to the anchors. I lead it cleanly with no problems, so we pulled the rope and each took turns leading it. Once all three of us had lead it, I lead up a .10c right next to the 5.9 once again cleanly, and once again we each lead it.
Up to this time we had just been relaxing and taking it slowly, hoping that our other friends would arrive shortly. They still weren't there so we decided that we would just hang out and leave the ropes on the routes so that they could TR them once they arrived. We just sat in the sun enjoying the weather for another half hour or so until our other friends got there and TR'd the 2 routes that we had set up.
It was around noon by now so we decided to head back to the campsite to make some lunch. we ate bagels, quesadillas, and oranges, then decided we would go do some climbing in the box canyon area.
We got to the box canyon area and started out with the warmup of choice, a short overhung pumpy .10a. I got the onsight and once again we each took turns either leading or TRing it depending on how we all felt. After that it was an .11a that I fell off of right as I went for the hold that you clip the chains from. That was a bummer, but I still enjoyed the route immensely, and felt good about how I had done considering how little I've climbed in the past 8 months. After these 2 climbs our late arriving friends told us that they needed to be heading home because they had to work that night, so we said good bye and also decided that it was time for a change of scenery (and to go somewhere easier since we were all starting to feel pretty tired). Off to the schoolroom we went.
The schoolroom is the beginner area of maple canyon, but it does have a few classic lines in it, so we started with a overhung 5.8 which the three of us left all redpointed (not that that is too amazing, but we were all feeling tired at this point). Next up was the ultra-classic line of the schoolroom, The Big Kahuna (named after an enormous cobble right in the center of the route). We each lead it up, then decided we only had strength left for one more moderately "hard" route. We were in luck because right next to the big kahuna there is a short 3 bolt .11a. I didn't think I had the strength left to get the redpoint on it, but to my surprise, I was able to push myself through and redpoint that thing.
At this point we realized that we had climbed 7 routes, and decided that an even ten routes would make a great day of climbing. We also realized that the last .11a we had done had pretty much drained us, so it was good we were in the beginner area of maple canyon. We jumped on a 5.8, then on a 5.7 and for our last route of the day we did a 5.9. I'm almost ashamed to admit it, but as I was clipping the crux bolt of the 5.9, my fingers just didn't want to stay wrapped around the cobble they were on, and I just barely got the rope through the draw when my hand let go of that hold. I rested a few seconds then finished the route, but I decided that even though I fell off of a 5.9 it was still a great day of climbing.
We went back to camp, had some dinner then went to bed.
The next day we only had a couple of hours to climb and decided that since both my friend Ben and myself had just pro-dealed some new trad gear, we would head to Rock Canyon in Provo to try it out. We wanted to do something easy and close to the trail, so I thought we could go to the kitchen and do a fun 5.8 that follows a double crack system. Since Ben had never been there he went for the onsight and did very well. His wife Jenalyn then TR'd it, then I lead it up. When I got to the crux (an overhanging wide hands section) I realized that the good positive face hold that you used to be able to use had broken off in the years since I had last climbed the route. I was still able to get the redpoint, but that route is certainly no longer a 5.8, I'd say its probably a .10a now without that hold (I was able to sandbag my friends without even trying isn't that great).
After that we decided that it was time to take off since Ben's sister had taken the day off work specifically to visit them, so we went our separate ways.
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 8:03 PM
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well, the "weekend" was only noted because that's the term. I think a regular day of climbing certainly suffices.
It's interesting how one can have ups and downs in the course of a regular day, even at the end when one thinks one's energy is sapped.
Sounds like a nice, relaxing day.
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kennoyce
May 18, 2009, 8:05 PM
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It was a great day. By the way, I love your blog, it's freaking awesome, you do some good writing.
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 8:14 PM
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kennoyce wrote: It was a great day. By the way, I love your blog, it's freaking awesome, you do some good writing.
Thanks. I do appreciate it.
One of the challenges is to find ways to make the mundane interesting. I get a lot of people that come up to and say, "there's always something that happens to you on your trips!" and that is somewhat true. All of my adventures do really happen, but I often times have to find ways to highlight those events, or even to find events that are worth highlighting. Once I get an angle, it's all about setting it up so that it stands out.
However, I'm kind of in a rut. I talk a lot about overcoming fear and I write too much about how I internalize things. I'm trying to find out what other people find interesting and how they communicate that. I'm looking for new methods of communicating ordinary life.
So my goal is two-fold: to learn and to read about others' climbing lives. Keep them coming. I'd love to read how folks change their storytelling over time, too.
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cracklover
May 18, 2009, 9:21 PM
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Have you read through the stuff in the Trip Reports here? What about on the other forums? rec.climbing is a gold mine.
Just not sure why you think handing out an assignment to others is the best method of you breaking out of your rut. Plenty of good quality stuff is already out there, if you want to see how it's done!
And just so you realize I'm not trying to blow you off, here's a start (one of my favorites of all time): http://groups.google.com/...4f9/f0d5b8dda8d4feea
GO
GO
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2009, 10:00 PM
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I read a lot of the other blogs already. They're good. I guess I asked folks here because I'm on this site regularly and I kind of know who people are (online only, of course).
It certainly wasn't an assignment. I honestly want to read what folks have to say. Maybe others don't want to read it. That's fine, but I'm interested. Not sure why I have to search elsewhere when there are plenty of people here who might be interested in partipating. Two others have already. I enjoyed it and will continue to push for more throughout the summer. Maybe it'll die. Maybe it won't. Maybe I'll be the only one posting in the end. I hope not.
Thanks for link. That was a good write-up. I liked the presentation style for sure, and that's what I need to see. It was nice to see a couple of familiar users there, too.
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guangzhou
May 29, 2009, 1:31 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.
A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.
I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.
Cheers
E
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Gmburns2000
May 29, 2009, 1:48 AM
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guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips. A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip. I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents. Cheers E
I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.
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guangzhou
May 29, 2009, 2:22 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips. A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip. I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents. Cheers E I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.
I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/
www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)
I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.
Cheers
E
(This post was edited by guangzhou on May 29, 2009, 2:24 AM)
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Gmburns2000
May 29, 2009, 2:29 AM
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guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips. A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip. I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents. Cheers E I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there. I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/ www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/ I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most) I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post. Cheers E
Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out.
I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that.
Cheers...
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guangzhou
May 29, 2009, 2:49 AM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips. A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip. I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents. Cheers E I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there. I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/ www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/ I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most) I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post. Cheers E Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out. I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that. Cheers...
My blog was just created, goes live May 29th. I think your blog has potential and that you do well. Rereading my post, I think some might misunderstand what I wrote when I said no new info.
Most of the routes and place you mention, I've already climbed. To be honest, I would read it more often if your blog was more personal than general. Emotions and thought would be great. Personal views.
I'll be in Colorado next month, if you're in the area, maybe we can climb together.
Cheers
E
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Gmburns2000
May 29, 2009, 1:21 PM
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guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: guangzhou wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: cracklover wrote: Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool. GO I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that. I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips. A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip. I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents. Cheers E I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there. I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/ www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/ I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most) I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post. Cheers E Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out. I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that. Cheers... My blog was just created, goes live May 29th. I think your blog has potential and that you do well. Rereading my post, I think some might misunderstand what I wrote when I said no new info. Most of the routes and place you mention, I've already climbed. To be honest, I would read it more often if your blog was more personal than general. Emotions and thought would be great. Personal views. I'll be in Colorado next month, if you're in the area, maybe we can climb together. Cheers E
Ah, I see what you're saying. That's actually really helpful. It's funny because I do see my posts as being personal, but not in an opinionated way. Well, to be honest I did rip into the arraingement that Colorado Mountain School was with RMNP here, but you're right, I could probably make it a bit less internal and more external. This is part of the reason why I started this thread, to find a new way of communicating. This is good feedback. Thanks. Looks like I might have some rewriting to do.
I won't be in Colorado due to my hopes of saving as much vacation time for when I move to Chile next spring (I'm going to need that cash-out), but my cohort on the blog, Jeremiah, lives and works as a guide out there. He's in Colorado Springs and his username is Jmeizis on here. I'm sure he'd be happy to get together even if just for a day if your schedules didn't match up. He's a good guy. A bit looney at times, but always within reason. I'd recommend to him to just about anyone, particularly since he is just starting to come into his own and very willing to learn and apply what he has learned.
Maybe we'll meet up some other time, though.
Greg
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donald949
May 29, 2009, 11:51 PM
Post #25 of 1159
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Registered: May 24, 2007
Posts: 11455
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Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.
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