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petehen900
May 21, 2009, 4:17 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2009
Posts: 1
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I am traveling to moab with my girlfriend in mid june. I have never climbed in the area before (from CO), and am looking to find some 5.8 to 5.10 moderate sport climbs. I am aware that almost everything is trad and cracks usually, so probably not many bolts... Also, any places better than others in terms of shade from the sun. Good camping spot? Any beta would be awesome guys! and girls...
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sungam
May 21, 2009, 6:00 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 19719
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Best place to camp - site number 2 or 8 at Williams Bottom campground. The Lazy Lizard hostel is also the shit, awesome spot.
Wall street has some pretty gud spurt-wanking routes on it, though not many easy ones. Little Thailand is a fun and balancy 5.8 (Don't pull too hard on the top hold! ) at the far left of wallstreet. You can also set up some top-ropes easily above site number 8 on the lower crag thing. Nervous in Suburbia is a burly/technical/sandbagged 10b around the middle of wallstreet that has a rather terrifying first clip (yes I did clip on lead, Carter... eventually) and some exciting runouts on easy moves. On a side note I watched a New Zealand lad run up this as his first lead ever, and his second climb on real rock. Ballsy motherfucker I reckon.
The Ice-cream Parlor (cringe) has some sport lines that are fairly straightforward (and less enjoyable).
That's pretty much it. Bring high SPF and a gallon of shade.
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