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gripjo
May 23, 2009, 4:51 AM
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I'm going to Rumney for the first time in the first week of june and i'm looking for the best multi-pitch routes. Me i'm my partner can climb 5.11 sport and 5.9 trad.
What is the best spot ? Or where are the longest routes ? The routes can be easier than 5.11, we don't care, we just want to go high !!!
Also, is there a lot of bug in the beginning of june ?
Thanx !
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rocknice2
May 23, 2009, 5:12 AM
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Then go to Cathedral Ledge for multi pitch
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shoo
May 23, 2009, 5:42 AM
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There is barely any multi-pitch at Rumney. If you are looking for exposure and height, you are looking at the wrong place.
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gripjo
May 23, 2009, 6:06 AM
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And what routes are nice to climb there ?
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rock_fencer
May 23, 2009, 8:39 AM
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there are not so many multipitch routes, 3 pitch or so. Rumney is mostly single pitch sport with some trad lines mixed in. Not to mention there are falcon closures on the main wall so check if they havent gone into effect
If you really looking to plug gear then go to Cathedral Ledges in North Conway or drive down to the 'gunks in NY
(This post was edited by rock_fencer on May 23, 2009, 8:46 AM)
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altelis
May 23, 2009, 8:45 AM
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gripjo wrote: I'm going to Rumney for the first time in the first week of june and i'm looking for the best multi-pitch routes. Me i'm my partner can climb 5.11 sport and 5.9 trad. What is the best spot ? Or where are the longest routes ? The routes can be easier than 5.11, we don't care, we just want to go high !!! Also, is there a lot of bug in the beginning of june ? Thanx !
hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
great multipitch lines in rumney.hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahah
bugs in june? hahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahahah
in all seriousness, people have answered the question about multipitch lines so i'll talk about the bugs. i'm not up there right now, so i can't tell you what the weather has been like, but you should know that end of may-beginning of june is black fly season.
if you can avoid it, do. they suck-didly-uck.
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theguy
May 23, 2009, 9:14 AM
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altelis wrote: i'm not up there right now, so i can't tell you what the weather has been like, but you should know that end of may-beginning of june is black fly season. if you can avoid it, do. they suck-didly-uck.
I was there two weekends ago, and was getting bitten even with DEET; tolerable though. Should be worse now :)
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altelis
May 23, 2009, 9:46 AM
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yea. the problem about black flies is that you don't really feel when you are getting bit. but then, that night you get ITCHY, and you get BUMPS, and they SUCK
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edge
May 23, 2009, 9:50 AM
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The multi-pitch routes at Rumney are really not worth the effort.
However, Cannon is just 45 minutes away to the north and will give you as much or little as you can handle.
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jmeizis
May 23, 2009, 10:20 AM
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There will be plenty of bugs in June. There is very little multi-pitch. There are some long routes on the Main Wall with a few being multipitch. Keep in mind that the other pitches don't often get climbed and it will likely be crowded so try not to brain anyone. It would be a much better use of time to go to Cannon or Cathedral and Whitehorse.
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mrksprague
Jan 7, 2010, 1:11 PM
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edge wrote: The multi-pitch routes at Rumney are really not worth the effort.
They are for people who can get up them 
Actually, there are some good ones, up to 3 pitchers. Most of these are found on the main cliff. Check out Ward's new edition of the guidebook that just came out for good descriptions. Favorites would probably be Rock de Jour -2 pitches 5.9, The Thang-3 pitches 5.11, Steel Curtain, -3 pitch 12a, High Roller-2 pitches 5.11, The Thang -5.10, all at the main cliff. Orange crush offers some really nice 2 pitch routes that can be strung together with a long rope, that can offer a surprising sense of exposure for their height. Even some of the 1 pitch routes can feel out there because of their position, for example Path of the Righteous 5-10 at the summit crag, or Lions, Tigers and Bears -5.11 at Orange Crush (Oh My Finish)
Cannon will certainly give you the most height in the area, along with the other factors of a more alpine cliff. Otherwise, head over to North Conway
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