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monster
May 24, 2009, 8:54 AM
Post #1 of 5
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Registered: Mar 17, 2002
Posts: 15
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Some of the photos I've stumbled across make P4 look quite run-out with ugly potential for pendulum. How protectable is it? Would larger gear like BD#5 help protect it?
Thanks in advance,
Ben Greenwood
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dynobelay
May 24, 2009, 10:24 PM
Post #2 of 5
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Registered: Sep 9, 2003
Posts: 41
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I've done Candyland, but not Coatimundi Whiteout. They are 2 seperate climbs.
Candyland does have a wide crack on the 1st pitch. A big unit here would be good. I fell on a runout above my biggest (#4 friend) and nearly decked (a hold broke as I was laybacking). The last pitch- hand traversing right around the big roof- was fun. It took a variety of gear but not extra wide like the 1st pitch.
I really like climbing at Granite Mountain!
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monster
May 25, 2009, 7:18 PM
Post #3 of 5
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Registered: Mar 17, 2002
Posts: 15
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Thanks for the quick reply. The traverse pitch under the roof was the one I was worried was runout, but that is good news indeed if it takes a variety of gear.
I bet I'm not the only AZ climber anxious for Granite mountain closures to end July ;)
Ben
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aerili
May 25, 2009, 10:26 PM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2006
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I wouldn't go until September. I've had Sonoran-desert hardened friends have to bail off those routes in August. Then you have the 3 mile hike back out as well.
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ja1484
May 26, 2009, 4:13 AM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: Aug 10, 2006
Posts: 1935
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aerili wrote: I wouldn't go until September. I've had Sonoran-desert hardened friends have to bail off those routes in August. Then you have the 3 mile hike back out as well.
At least September. I was there for Sept and Oct recently and it was still a damn scorcher in the sunlight. Luckily, this route is shaded most of the way (until you turn the roof), especially if you get an early start.
Protection wise, take a normal rack up to a single #4 C4, and you could use a #5 if you:
a) Feel ok lugging it in there/up there.
b) Aren't terribly confident with squeeze chimneying/wide/offwidth crack technique.
That said, if you're pretty solid at the grade and that kind of climbing, you can thief your way through the wide section without too much trouble, and there is a bolt at the start of it.
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