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roughster
Nov 27, 2002, 1:13 AM
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Ok guys, the ball is offically rolling now. I have spoken with the Northern California Representative for the Access Fund concerning climbing at Auburn.
At this point I will keep you updated on any happenings centered around access and its hopefully resolution.
What this did remind me is this is a great time for Sacramento/Bay Area climbers to donate/Sign up for the Access Fund if your not already a member.
They are now out there fighting for us as we speak. The least we can do is say thanks with a few $$$.
I'll keep you updated...
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coldclimb
Nov 27, 2002, 1:49 AM
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Heh, got my attention with my favorite line from that play. Good luck man.
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hellbent
Dec 17, 2002, 7:16 PM
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"Dogs of war and men of hate,
without cause we dont discriminate,
Winners must lose and things will get strained,
........
Unleash the dogs of war" - Pink Floyd
Got my attention tooooo.
[ This Message was edited by: hellbent on 2002-12-17 11:17 ]
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roughster
Dec 26, 2002, 6:50 PM
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Quote:hey I was wondering what's up with Auburn? Do we need to form some kind of little coalition? I know Dave F. from Davis... maybe that little group and some others... I'm an access fund member and I think it said in the handbook that its good to get organized and have some sort of unified group? I have avoided climbing at Auburn because of the access issues. I've heard too, about lots of holds breaking off... is it worth the access fund's money and time, that might be better put towards areas like Castleton? or should we find another place to develop? Please let me know, I'd be happy to help with whatever needs to be done.
As of right now, the Access Fund is already working on the issue. I have been told to hold off making any kind of organized effort towards access until our representative can assess the situation. I would encourage anyone who is not a member to join, and make sure you put a note on your application/donation that you specifically are concerned with Auburn Limestone in Northern California.
As for whether or not Auburn is worth it: A big HELL yes!
The area was a quarry so some loose is to be expected, however the routes do clean up over time and in addition, Auburn has more sport route potential of any area West of Tahoe.
I would guess there could easily be 300 + routes with several of them mutlipitch of up to 3 pitches in length. Sure holds break, but the area will clean up with time. You have to remember that most of these routes have seen less than 20 ascents. Some of them even less.
Ask anyone who has been to Auburn recently for feedback. There are 20+ routes now from 3 bolts to 10 bolts long. Routes from 5. to 12C, and potential for so much more. The rock is very amiable for sport climbing as it is highly featured.
When access is resolved, and I can start developing routes without access concerns, Auburn will be the premeire sport climbing in the Bay/Sacramento area w/o a question.
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quiter
Jan 8, 2003, 9:50 PM
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Is Auburn worth it? YES.
I agree with roughster, there is potential for at LEAST 300 climbs here, of all difficulities.
It is loose, but I think that's more an issue with the first rock that has routes on it. Many of the "unclimbed" areas in the back do not look as loose, and are of a wide variety of rock, which makes for a very colorful and canyonlike experience.
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roughster
Jan 11, 2003, 2:59 AM
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Daisy:
Currently there are a few anchors that can be accessed from the lip of the Scale Wall: The Unknown 5.10b, then Landslide's Anchors.
From those you should be able to swing over to nearby anchors and set up TRs. I have seen it done several times and people seemed to be fine with it.
I think more than likely doing this (playing Tarzan and swinging around) you should be able to get TR's on all the routes on the Scale Wall since the wall gets progressively higher as you go left to right and Landslide has the highest anchors at the apex of the wall. This should give you access to all below and left.
If that meakes sense
If not, there have been quite a few peeps up there as of late and most likely someone would be more than willing to lead a route or two for you to set up your TR. I know if I am there I have no probs setting up TRs for people.
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wv5ten
Jan 11, 2003, 3:04 AM
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My first thought was also Pink Floyd
that dave gilmour, love his stuff. of course i love floyd's stuff with syd and roger as well. but thats going off topic. Im glad to see access fund in work! Here's hoping something positive comes out of this
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