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Crack climbing in Spain??
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grastafaram


May 29, 2009, 12:13 AM
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Crack climbing in Spain??  (Europe: Spain: Madrid)
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Hey, I'm wondering if anyone knows some good spots to crack climb in Spain. I've already climbed in La Pedriza and La Cabrera, but I'm looking for other spots higher in altitude because I'll be there in summer. Around the Madrid area would be the best, but I'm willing to go anywhere in Spain. If anyone's going to be in Spain this summer and wants to climb some trad, let me know. I'll be living in Madrid with some time on my hands.

Thanks,

Graham


yokese


May 29, 2009, 12:34 AM
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Re: [grastafaram] Crack climbing in Spain?? [In reply to]
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Hey grastafaram,
La Pedriza and La Cabrera are pretty much the two places for crack climbing in Madrid. Don't get too discouraged by the temps in summer. If you avoid the south faces (not so easy in La Cabrera), you can climb almost any day, specially in the mornings.
Peņalara is the highest crag in the area, over 2500m, but I don't remebember a lot of crack climbing there (albeit there are some cracks), and the cliffs are relatively short (there are a handful of two pitches routes in "El Robot"). Not a super-crag (like La Pedriza), but I think it's worthy the visit, the views are quite good and the easy hike to the glacial lagoon is quite beautiful.
La Maliciosa and Peņotillo have some nice multipitch trad routes too, and both are over 2000m, but they are facing south.

If you have a car, I'd suggest you to go to Galayos, in Sierra de Gredos, if you don't mind the hike to the crag, that is. There are two ways up. The easy way following "Las zetas" (the zigzags):



Or a more direct one named "La Apretura". Both get you to "El Galayar". Tempting, isn't it?:



I'd also suggest you to contact these people, they might give you great advice about crack climbing in La Pedriza, La Cabrera, Gredos, etc... even Indian Creek Tongue . Im pretty sure they know plenty of cracks in La Pedriza that are not too hot in summer. Besides, they take SUPERB pictures, don't they?

Have fun. I envy you. A LOT Unsure


(This post was edited by yokese on May 29, 2009, 12:45 AM)


timl


May 29, 2009, 4:24 AM
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Re: [grastafaram] Crack climbing in Spain?? [In reply to]
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DO NOT GO TO GALAYOS.

If two english speaking people show up they're gonna think we are taking over the place.

DO NOT trust any of those people in the pictures posted on that site...ha....ha....ha....ha...ha

Really, Galayos is a paradise. Best place to climb cracks in Cental Spain and one of the best to go to in summer. It's about an 1h 45 min from Madrid. I'll be there this Saturady, in Pena Aguila. It's divided into 2 zones, the upper part and the lower part. Here soon it's going to be too hot to climb in the lower part, Los Berroqueras, but it will be nice up higher.

There are really no good guidebooks in print. You'll be lucky if you can find an old one by Gabriel Martin. There is also a 100 Best CLimbs in the Central Zone that has listed a lot of routes, but the book isn't very good. There is alot of info on the internet, but you have to find it. The refuge in the upper part has topos and info.

Also try Valle de Boi/Cavalliers in Cataluya. It has good alpine granite, although it might be a little early now since it's in the Pyrennes. There is tones of alpine limestone in the Pyrennes and Picos de Europa.

Take advantage of Rodellar as well and crank overhangs with all the frikis.

Pedriza and Cabrera are probably to hot now.

PM me if you need more info. I live in Madrid.


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