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whath1
May 31, 2009, 9:00 AM
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Well, get at me. What do you think the best bolted area in MD is?
oh and ET doesn't count
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heidt410
May 31, 2009, 3:48 PM
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why not drive to Seneca, New, or Coopers WV?
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keegan540
May 31, 2009, 4:03 PM
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I know there have been some bolts going in at Maryland Heights. Not sure what the locals are thinking about this yet. I always thought this was a trad destination.
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whath1
May 31, 2009, 7:19 PM
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yea, the climbing is better and there's bolts, but 4-6 hours isn't exactly an afterwork cruise to the crag. I was hoping there was something I'd missed (perhaps recent developments, etc.) where there were bolted routes labeled as trad or TR to scare off the newbs.
thanks for the suggestion though, I am aware of these sites and have climbed them before (except seneca)
ps it's been some time since I hit up coopers and even then it was just to boulder, but I was under the impression they took the bolts off haystack since it was rolling away and there isn't anything else bolted?
PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.
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charley
Jun 1, 2009, 12:43 PM
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Depending on where in md. There are some things in pa. only an hour or so away.
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drsuperfly
Jun 1, 2009, 6:20 PM
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Friction wall in Ellicott City. It's some of the best slab climbing in MD and it's bolted. It takes a few days to dry out. Its a stout 5.10a/b in my opinion especially if you have little slab experience.
Well worth an hour drive. Grab a beer in historic Ellicott City after climbing.
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whath1
Jun 1, 2009, 6:39 PM
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hah totally climbed at friction before. It's about 5 minutes away from my house.
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cwo2
Jun 1, 2009, 7:33 PM
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If you're only 5 min from Ellicott City, then Harpers Ferry shouldn't be much more than an hour away for you. An area called Rifle Cave has seen some recent development.
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lodi5onu
Jun 2, 2009, 7:57 AM
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Not sure where those locals are. I've been going there for the past 3 months about 3-4 times a week and have not seen ANYBODY else climbing. I live in Frederick...am I a local? I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.
Edit: I have seen 1 other party climbing at Maryland Heights. Glad you got your rope unstuck and down safely cwo2! Hope you and Patrick had a nice day!
(This post was edited by lodi5onu on Jun 2, 2009, 8:16 AM)
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keegan540
Jun 2, 2009, 12:22 PM
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I'm somewhat of a local, but haven't been up much this year. I checked out the lines and thought two of them were pretty cool, the one on the far right looked like a great line. I'm not against any bolting or anything, I'm just curious to what others are saying. I lived in Martinsburg so I climbed there more when it was 20 minutes away.
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dreday3000
Jun 3, 2009, 12:13 PM
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lodi5onu wrote: I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.!
What's the score with this new development? How many climbs went up? Are they hard? What style of climbing?
Thanks.
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Laxinbueck162
Jun 3, 2009, 12:40 PM
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a little known area which is probably a hike for most is right outside of cumberland md called locust grove. Great climbing of all types. Some tope rope, a couple straight trad and sport routes and alot of great mixed routes. Not many moderates for straight sport routes though.
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reg
Jun 3, 2009, 12:56 PM
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chk with "indy md" on this site - he wrote the book on md climbing - literally.
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mikeswiz
Jun 3, 2009, 1:31 PM
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reg wrote: chk with "indy md" on this site - he wrote the book on md climbing - literally.
+1
But most everything in MD is trad or top rope.
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The_Barbarian
Jun 3, 2009, 1:56 PM
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Hello
What is the new status on these bolts? What cliffs are they going in on etc...? Who is authoring the routes?
Harpers HAS always been a traditional area. I have been climbing there for 14 years and there were climbers visiting that place long before me. There are first known ascents going back to the 1969/70 boundary. There are pitons at harpers that are quite old and the climbers who placed them are not always known nor is their placement time known.
Are you seriously considering yourself knowledgeable of the area. 3-4 months of climbing at harpers is a blip on the time scale of harpers climbing! How can you say that lines are unclimbed if you have only been climbing there for 3-4 months? And I'm curious what your trad experience is and what difficulty and danger rating you are willing to trad climb at and thus your judgement of what gear placements are possible. I'm saying: Are you in a position to be judging the tradability of these routes and also whether they have been climbed before? TR and Trad don't leave permanant marks. I climb rope in the 12+/13- range, boulder around the V8/9 mark, are you bolting lines that have already been done? What about other climbers who have also done lines but left no mark. Why are you compelled to leave yours in an area without bolts? I know that the Climb MD book doesn't cover all that harpers has to offer and that many unknown climbs have been climbed.
If you are not the author of these routes please excuse my tone, if you know the author pass on the sentiments, but if you are the author I encourage you to get more familiar with the history before moving forward. Have you consulted with the park service on the placement of fixed protection on their property? etc...
Have you contacted Rob Savoye, the original guide book maker for the area. Have you spoken with Indy? GO to http://indy-adventures.net/climbing/guide.html
and
http://www.welcomehome.org/rob/guides/mdheights.html
I know this doesn't cover more than the main face but it should be a hint at the possibility of early ascents, prior to your bolting. I grew up 15 minutes from the place, did a geology senior thesis on the ridge for college and searched out every bit of rock, developed a bouldering guide to the area, and climbed many a line at the cliffs all over the gorge. Other people have contacted me for info by doing a brief search of the internet, have you done your research before acting?
Harpers is an old area, please respect the history and ethics and take time before sinking bolts.
PM me if you want contacts, info, etc...
Thanks and Respectfully
Conrad Schaefer
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Physicist
Jun 3, 2009, 2:11 PM
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dreday3000 wrote: lodi5onu wrote: I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.! What's the score with this new development? How many climbs went up? Are they hard? What style of climbing? Thanks.
There were about half a dozen when I was there a few weeks ago, and lodi said he planned to bolt a few more. They're in the hard 10 to easy 12 range, mostly overhanging with good holds. The two lines I climbed were at least as good as any other sport type routes I've done in maryland.
Other than maryland heights, friction wall has the best sport routes. Other than just the slab 5.10b, there's some hard bolted routes on the other wall there (they're hard to miss). Most of them have drilled two finger pockets and aren't very good, but one of the lines going up and right from the start of it is very good, and the one furthest on the right is pretty good too.
(This post was edited by Physicist on Jun 3, 2009, 2:15 PM)
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puerto
Jun 3, 2009, 10:11 PM
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Baltimore.
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whath1
Jun 3, 2009, 11:02 PM
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this is turning out to be way better than I thought it would. thanks for all the interest folks.
so far I think puerto's suggestion is the best bet.
...but really, I'll have to check out that rifle cave spot. any posting of it's existence on here yet? doesn't seem like there is, but I look forwards to seeing a concrete location, and some photos too.
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keegan540
Jun 4, 2009, 3:02 PM
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it's posted on here in the maryland heights section, there are four routes listed there
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keegan540
Jun 4, 2009, 3:59 PM
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What does everyone think about upgrading the 1/4 in belay stations to 3/8 in? The only two bolted belays I'm aware of are on Hard Up. I'm not sure of the age, but since they are 1/4 in I view them as suspect. I have used these bolts to belay/rap, but would be more comfortable on some newer, beefier hardware.
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indy_md
Jul 4, 2009, 4:06 AM
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keegan540 wrote: What does everyone think about upgrading the 1/4 in belay stations to 3/8 in? The only two bolted belays I'm aware of are on Hard Up. I'm not sure of the age, but since they are 1/4 in I view them as suspect. I have used these bolts to belay/rap, but would be more comfortable on some newer, beefier hardware.
On the rocks surrounding Harpers Ferry (i.e, Loudon Heights and other places), I have no idea about. But the rocks directly across from Harpers Ferry in Maryland (i.e., Maryland Heights), permission needed.
Just fyi.
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keegan540
Jul 4, 2009, 8:26 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I will consult the park, and try to get permission on re-bolting the rap stations on the Sign Route. I will also ask about rap anchors for the slabs.
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indy_md
Jul 5, 2009, 8:13 AM
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Please let me know how things develop. I am most interested in whether or not you can do the rebolting effort (and if you get permission, if I can, I'll come out and help if you need)
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