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massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack
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drsuperfly


Jun 1, 2009, 6:05 PM
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massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack  (North_America: United_States: Virginia: North_Western: Old_Rag_Mountain: PATC_Wall__aka_Skyline_Wall_)
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I was climbing PATC Lieback. After climbing the crack while transitioning over to the chimney on the left I grabbed a 5 foot by 2 foot slab of rock. It slid 6 inches. After telling my belayer to move to the side I let go and it made a crack sound. I was lowered and ran like hell.

Questions for the forum: What is a safe way to go about dislodging the unstable bolder? Is it good climber’s etiquette to do so?

It looks like a pretty good line. Beware.


onceahardman


Jun 1, 2009, 6:23 PM
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Re: [drsuperfly] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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drsuperfly wrote:
I was climbing PATC Lieback. After climbing the crack while transitioning over to the chimney on the left I grabbed a 5 foot by 2 foot slab of rock. It slid 6 inches. After telling my belayer to move to the side I let go and it made a crack sound. I was lowered and ran like hell.

Questions for the forum: What is a safe way to go about dislodging the unstable bolder? Is it good climber’s etiquette to do so?

It looks like a pretty good line. Beware.


TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.


irregularpanda


Jun 1, 2009, 7:11 PM
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Re: [onceahardman] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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onceahardman wrote:

TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.

Agreed.

Rappel or traverse in safely.
Bring a crowbar.
Make sure nobody is below you.
Bring a cameraman.


coolcat83


Jun 1, 2009, 7:45 PM
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Re: [irregularpanda] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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irregularpanda wrote:
onceahardman wrote:

TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.

Agreed.

Rappel or traverse in safely. remember to keep your ropes out of the way when you let it loose
Bring a crowbar.
Make sure nobody is below you.
Bring a cameraman. please

i saw a video a couple years back of some guys lettig loose a whole pillar, they used a scissor jack from a car to move it...perhaps a bit extreme


pendereki


Jun 1, 2009, 8:00 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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coolcat83 wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
onceahardman wrote:

TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.

Agreed.

Rappel or traverse in safely. remember to keep your ropes out of the way when you let it loose
Bring a crowbar.
Make sure nobody is below you.
Bring a cameraman. please

i saw a video a couple years back of some guys lettig loose a whole pillar, they used a scissor jack from a car to move it...perhaps a bit extreme

Really!! If it is OK to use a crowbar or a scissor jack to remove rock from a route, how 'bout just a hammer and chisel to remove a little bit of rock? A couple of new handholds maybe??


irregularpanda


Jun 1, 2009, 8:18 PM
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Re: [pendereki] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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pendereki wrote:

Really!! If it is OK to use a crowbar or a scissor jack to remove rock from a route, how 'bout just a hammer and chisel to remove a little bit of rock? A couple of new handholds maybe??

OK, now shut your word hole.


coolcat83


Jun 1, 2009, 9:13 PM
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Re: [pendereki] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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pendereki wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
onceahardman wrote:

TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.

Agreed.

Rappel or traverse in safely. remember to keep your ropes out of the way when you let it loose
Bring a crowbar.
Make sure nobody is below you.
Bring a cameraman. please

i saw a video a couple years back of some guys lettig loose a whole pillar, they used a scissor jack from a car to move it...perhaps a bit extreme

Really!! If it is OK to use a crowbar or a scissor jack to remove rock from a route, how 'bout just a hammer and chisel to remove a little bit of rock? A couple of new handholds maybe??

Never said I approved


knieveltech


Jun 1, 2009, 10:36 PM
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Re: [coolcat83] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1vZSxOCxRI

O.o


curt


Jun 2, 2009, 12:05 AM
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Re: [pendereki] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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pendereki wrote:
coolcat83 wrote:
irregularpanda wrote:
onceahardman wrote:

TRUNDLING has a great history for climbers. Make it safe, then let it fly!!!

I'm jealous. Trundling is a blast.

Agreed.

Rappel or traverse in safely. remember to keep your ropes out of the way when you let it loose
Bring a crowbar.
Make sure nobody is below you.
Bring a cameraman. please

i saw a video a couple years back of some guys lettig loose a whole pillar, they used a scissor jack from a car to move it...perhaps a bit extreme

Really!! If it is OK to use a crowbar or a scissor jack to remove rock from a route, how 'bout just a hammer and chisel to remove a little bit of rock? A couple of new handholds maybe??

Different concept entirely--please try to pay attention.

Curt


virginiapine


Sep 24, 2009, 2:28 PM
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Re: [curt] massive boulder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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Hmmm, I'll have to get up there again soon and have a look. I've extended PATC Lieback and Hemlock Crack to the top by pulling straight down on that flake in order to reach a crack to the right and thence up the upper wall. Funny how I've never had any problem with that flake. But then I started doing alpine stuff within a year of learning to rock climb and thus automatically pay very close attention to what I'm grabbing and HOW I grab it - after all, virtually everything up in the high peaks is loose...

Looking at the orig. post again, I suppose he may be referring to something on the big ledge, as opposed to a flake above....


(This post was edited by virginiapine on Sep 24, 2009, 2:32 PM)


shimanilami


Sep 24, 2009, 2:54 PM
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Re: [drsuperfly] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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Safety? Etiquette? Fuck that bullshit.

Real men use dynamite. And lots of it.


notapplicable


Sep 24, 2009, 6:18 PM
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Re: [shimanilami] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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shimanilami wrote:
Safety? Etiquette? Fuck that bullshit.

Real men use dynamite. And lots of it.

This is correct.

Superfly, I will bring the explosives (homemade of course) if you can get your hands on a video camera. Weekdays would be best but I'm not afraid to give the tourons a show either. Just let me know.


minibiter


Sep 24, 2009, 8:38 PM
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Re: [drsuperfly] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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Thanks for the heads up, I've been meaning to get back up there now that the weather's chilling out. Probably gonna head to the reflector oven / OMG / Bushwhack area though.

I haven't been on that route but what I would do is rap in and pop that puppy. Assuming a rap is possible...

Good advice to make sure your rope are out of the way.

I pulled a smaller flake off something over on whale's lip or eagle's gift last year, probably only 30# or so of rock but it exploded pretty well! Had lots of bugs behind it too.


minibiter


Sep 24, 2009, 8:47 PM
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Registered: Oct 22, 2007
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Re: [drsuperfly] massive bolder about to fall upper PATC lieback and bombay crack [In reply to]
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After reviewing the book, my flake came off slightly right of The Latest Trick at Upper God's.


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