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Best Bolted Area in MD?
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whath1


May 31, 2009, 9:00 AM
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Best Bolted Area in MD?  (North_America: United_States: Maryland)
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Well, get at me. What do you think the best bolted area in MD is?

oh and ET doesn't count


heidt410


May 31, 2009, 3:48 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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why not drive to Seneca, New, or Coopers WV?


keegan540


May 31, 2009, 4:03 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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I know there have been some bolts going in at Maryland Heights. Not sure what the locals are thinking about this yet. I always thought this was a trad destination.


whath1


May 31, 2009, 7:19 PM
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Re: [heidt410] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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yea, the climbing is better and there's bolts, but 4-6 hours isn't exactly an afterwork cruise to the crag. I was hoping there was something I'd missed (perhaps recent developments, etc.) where there were bolted routes labeled as trad or TR to scare off the newbs.

thanks for the suggestion though, I am aware of these sites and have climbed them before (except seneca)

ps it's been some time since I hit up coopers and even then it was just to boulder, but I was under the impression they took the bolts off haystack since it was rolling away and there isn't anything else bolted?

PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.


charley


Jun 1, 2009, 12:43 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Depending on where in md. There are some things in pa. only an hour or so away.


drsuperfly


Jun 1, 2009, 6:20 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Friction wall in Ellicott City. It's some of the best slab climbing in MD and it's bolted. It takes a few days to dry out. Its a stout 5.10a/b in my opinion especially if you have little slab experience.

Well worth an hour drive. Grab a beer in historic Ellicott City after climbing.


whath1


Jun 1, 2009, 6:39 PM
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Re: [drsuperfly] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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hah totally climbed at friction before. It's about 5 minutes away from my house.


cwo2


Jun 1, 2009, 7:33 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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If you're only 5 min from Ellicott City, then Harpers Ferry shouldn't be much more than an hour away for you. An area called Rifle Cave has seen some recent development.


lodi5onu


Jun 2, 2009, 7:57 AM
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Re: [keegan540] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Not sure where those locals are. I've been going there for the past 3 months about 3-4 times a week and have not seen ANYBODY else climbing. I live in Frederick...am I a local? I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.

Edit: I have seen 1 other party climbing at Maryland Heights. Glad you got your rope unstuck and down safely cwo2! Hope you and Patrick had a nice day!

(This post was edited by lodi5onu on Jun 2, 2009, 8:16 AM)


keegan540


Jun 2, 2009, 12:22 PM
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Re: [lodi5onu] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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I'm somewhat of a local, but haven't been up much this year. I checked out the lines and thought two of them were pretty cool, the one on the far right looked like a great line. I'm not against any bolting or anything, I'm just curious to what others are saying. I lived in Martinsburg so I climbed there more when it was 20 minutes away.


dreday3000


Jun 3, 2009, 12:13 PM
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Re: [lodi5onu] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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lodi5onu wrote:
I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.!

What's the score with this new development? How many climbs went up? Are they hard? What style of climbing?

Thanks.


Laxinbueck162


Jun 3, 2009, 12:40 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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a little known area which is probably a hike for most is right outside of cumberland md called locust grove. Great climbing of all types. Some tope rope, a couple straight trad and sport routes and alot of great mixed routes. Not many moderates for straight sport routes though.


reg


Jun 3, 2009, 12:56 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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chk with "indy md" on this site - he wrote the book on md climbing - literally.


mikeswiz


Jun 3, 2009, 1:31 PM
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Re: [reg] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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reg wrote:
chk with "indy md" on this site - he wrote the book on md climbing - literally.

+1

But most everything in MD is trad or top rope.


Physicist


Jun 3, 2009, 2:11 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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dreday3000 wrote:
lodi5onu wrote:
I would really like to know what the "locals" think about the recent development as well. If you know who they are, please have them e-mail me at "snurfmaryjane@yahoo.com" or send me a PM here and I'll give'em my cell phone. No trad climbs are being bolted anywhere around Harpers Ferry or Maryland Heights. Just a few good lines that have never been climbed and don't take good gear.!

What's the score with this new development? How many climbs went up? Are they hard? What style of climbing?

Thanks.

There were about half a dozen when I was there a few weeks ago, and lodi said he planned to bolt a few more. They're in the hard 10 to easy 12 range, mostly overhanging with good holds. The two lines I climbed were at least as good as any other sport type routes I've done in maryland.

Other than maryland heights, friction wall has the best sport routes. Other than just the slab 5.10b, there's some hard bolted routes on the other wall there (they're hard to miss). Most of them have drilled two finger pockets and aren't very good, but one of the lines going up and right from the start of it is very good, and the one furthest on the right is pretty good too.


(This post was edited by Physicist on Jun 3, 2009, 2:15 PM)


puerto


Jun 3, 2009, 10:11 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Baltimore.


whath1


Jun 3, 2009, 11:02 PM
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this is turning out to be way better than I thought it would. thanks for all the interest folks.

so far I think puerto's suggestion is the best bet.

...but really, I'll have to check out that rifle cave spot. any posting of it's existence on here yet? doesn't seem like there is, but I look forwards to seeing a concrete location, and some photos too.


keegan540


Jun 4, 2009, 3:02 PM
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it's posted on here in the maryland heights section, there are four routes listed there


keegan540


Jun 4, 2009, 3:59 PM
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Re: [whath1] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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What does everyone think about upgrading the 1/4 in belay stations to 3/8 in? The only two bolted belays I'm aware of are on Hard Up. I'm not sure of the age, but since they are 1/4 in I view them as suspect. I have used these bolts to belay/rap, but would be more comfortable on some newer, beefier hardware.


indy_md


Jul 4, 2009, 4:06 AM
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Re: [keegan540] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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keegan540 wrote:
What does everyone think about upgrading the 1/4 in belay stations to 3/8 in? The only two bolted belays I'm aware of are on Hard Up. I'm not sure of the age, but since they are 1/4 in I view them as suspect. I have used these bolts to belay/rap, but would be more comfortable on some newer, beefier hardware.
I agree with you re: the bolted stations. They are suspect, having gone in some 30 or more years ago, and need to be replaced. But putting bolts in the rock at Maryland Heights itself is not allowed unless one consults with the park service. I think with the right approach and tone this can be done for replacing the bolt anchors (I would also like to see established rap stations atop of A- and B-Slabs; every time I go the webbing rap stations are almost always taken, and that tree ain't gonna last forever...).

On the rocks surrounding Harpers Ferry (i.e, Loudon Heights and other places), I have no idea about. But the rocks directly across from Harpers Ferry in Maryland (i.e., Maryland Heights), permission needed.

Just fyi.


keegan540


Jul 4, 2009, 8:26 AM
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Re: [indy_md] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Thanks for the reply, I will consult the park, and try to get permission on re-bolting the rap stations on the Sign Route. I will also ask about rap anchors for the slabs.


indy_md


Jul 5, 2009, 8:13 AM
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Re: [keegan540] Best Bolted Area in MD? [In reply to]
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Please let me know how things develop. I am most interested in whether or not you can do the rebolting effort (and if you get permission, if I can, I'll come out and help if you need)


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