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old_school


Oct 30, 2001, 10:46 PM
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sweet sweet booty
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i just found me a free hexentric. any sugjestions of what i should do to make her safe again (or if it is) i just wanna hear what you all have to say about trusting the sweet sweet booty.. um gear.

andy


fiend


Oct 30, 2001, 10:47 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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Apparently the newest studies have shown that biners don't get invisible stress fractures when you drop them. Would be nice if you didn't have to assume all booty gear was unsafe


Partner rrrADAM


Oct 30, 2001, 11:10 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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Personnaly, I do not trust my life, or anyone else's with me, to gear I do not know the history of. I have bootied biners, but I just rack gear with them.


rrrADAM


Partner camhead


Oct 30, 2001, 11:21 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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  I wouldn't recommend using booty to anyone. However, it was with booty that I first got into climbing about four years ago. Here is the story:
I found a worn backpack (dana design) in a very remote canyon in Southern Utah while backpacking. Its contents? A set of hexes, set of stoppers, a cleaning tool, about twenty biners, boreal shoes, and tons of assorted webbing and runners. Now I wonder what anyone was doing in southern Utah without active pro, but back then I had no clue what the stuff even was! I felt kind of bad about taking it, even though I left a message with the BLM and NPS. Nobody ever claimed it however.
As I said before, I cannot recommend using booty gear. I personally still use the pro and the shoes (risking bad karma every day, I'm sure), but it is a risk.

p.s. for anyone interested, there is a large boulder at the base of the terrible two's wall in Capitol Reef. Last time I was there, I saw quite a bit of miscallaneous dropped gear between this boulder and the main wall, about six feet down. If you goes there, take a broomskick and a coat hanger to retrieve the gear. Happy hunting!
(the desert giveth, and the desert taketh away)


[ This Message was edited by: camhead on 2001-10-30 23:23 ]


mountainmike


Nov 3, 2001, 11:16 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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So that's where I left that pack!! Oh well finders keepers.


nikegirl


Nov 3, 2001, 11:48 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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So, what do you really do with booty?
I think there is a reason it's left behind...fallen or stuck cams...I know that the Cams that had sunk too deep to get out...made my partner sick, and pist...He felt stupid...thought he should have known better...I felt bad for him... I know that it was in great shape...But, to sit there and fight the Cam for an hour was a waste of daylight.
If it's not mine. It's not mine. If it's laying on the ground...It's not mine.
I feel the same about found jewelry. Money... on the street..I just think I would be bummed if I lost something and went' back to look for it... gone. I have seen postings on Hikes for stuff left behind...Maybe a posting for "found".
I just have good Karma.

no judgement here, just an opinion.
Can't justify it.


dustinap
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Nov 4, 2001, 3:09 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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booty is great. If you find the person that left the gear on the same trip, give it back, it's his/hers. If you don't, and you got it out, keep it.

I got several fixed nuts out on my last trip, took me about 45 seconds per nut whacking on it and yanking on it, I kept them of course. I didn't see a " I lost 2 nuts" message anywhere up there. but the point is, I worked to get it out, so I earned it in a way.

Also, if you choose to leave gear, you're giving it to the rock. Since the rock probably doesn't like it being stuck there, I think you're allowed to take it from the rock.


blackjack


Nov 4, 2001, 3:14 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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Sell it and buy another new one


addiroids


Nov 4, 2001, 3:41 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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First of all, you never trust you life to one piece of gear except for harness, rope, belay device, and biner. As for everything else, that's why you build anchors to be Redundant. I have found 6 nuts, a #2 camalot (forgotten, not overcammed), a yellow and red Metolius TCU, a Metolius QD, a cordelette, and several bail biners. I do use the biners for racking hooks and stuff I know won't be subject to load, but all the other gear is an active part of my rack. Seriously, how badly can nuts be damaged?!?! The cordelette was just tied around a tree with no burn marks on it, the TCU's were from someone bailing (not smart to bail off 1 piece of gear), and the other crap was just sitting around on ledges and in trees.

The worst thing is that I have fixed/left about 4 small Stoppers, 1 offset HB nut disappeared, my ATC disappeared on West Face of Leaning Tower, I dropped 2 Yates Aiders from West Face , my buddy dropped 3 biners and 2 slings of mine at Tahquitz, and I have lost some dignity along the way. So I have more than given back to the Booty Fund.

Moral of this story is that most gear is good. Just don't belay off that manky locker found at the base of El Cap on which the gate doesn't fully close.

TRADitionally yours,

Addiroids

Why buy gear when it falls from the sky.

[ This Message was edited by: addiroids on 2001-11-04 15:41 ]


samshafer


Jan 7, 2002, 1:35 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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I think most climbers just try to use some judgment about what to use and what to sit on the mantle for conversation. Personally, I've never found a piece of booty that I didn't like, but if anyone claimed it was theirs I have always given it back...no questions asked. Once I even wasted a good hour or so of valuable daylight climbing back up 30-40 feet on The Grand Teton to retrieve a brand new(borrowed) rope for some guys who were going to just leave it there. I couldn't see leaving it and they couldn't climb up to get it.
Everyone I know actively looks for gear stuck in the rock. I have lots of small pieces mixed in my rack that I've found stuck in the cracks @ Devil's Tower. In fact, the best times to go climbing are after a holiday weekend when lots of climbers from out of state have abandoned gear for one reason or another and gone home.


bulldog


Jan 7, 2002, 1:49 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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I say if it looks good and feels good, take it - use it as you will.

A friend and I were up about 4-5 pitches a few months back and he took a 40 footer, really wonkin his ankle. He wasn't gonna make it to the top, so we had to retreat down. In the process, a number of slings, biners, and a couple nice cams were left. On the way down the mountain we passed some guys, and I suggested if they wanted to make a "booty" call, then I've got a great route for you to climb. To the victor go the spoils.

Bulldog


blimpdriver


Jan 7, 2002, 2:02 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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Don't use it man. Bad news


joemor


Jan 12, 2002, 7:26 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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re cord it and use it as a back up pro or if u want just use it as if it were new, is it deformed? its pretty hard to break a hex! use it with care or retire it.... its up to u

joe


graniteboy


Jan 12, 2002, 7:50 PM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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Back to the initial question: the free hex; Did you find it stuck in a crack, or at the bottom of a long drop? I'd probably use it if it were just stuck.
Although the latest info generally says that microfractures don't even exist in dropped gear, I wonder how large a sample size was used for making that statement? In my not so humble opinion (I am a scientist with a firm grasp of statistics), unless they had tested literally hundreds of pieces of gear which had been dropped, their study would be flawed. And would you want to die because someone else made bold statements based upon too small a sample size? In order to gain a high confidence (p~0.0001) in the study which has been brandished about regarding this matter, a huge effort would have been necessary. If I recall correctly, fewer than a hundred samples were taken. Although the microfracture issue probably IS non existent, why risk it?
On the other hand, I use dropped nuts that I find anyway. And Nikegirl: although it might be bad karma not to return the gear to the rightful owner, always remember that left gear is pollution. Unless it's an important piece of fixed gear, it should be removed.


aulwes


Jan 13, 2002, 12:46 AM
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sweet sweet booty [In reply to]
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HMMM... I found a cool camoflage accessory cord this weekend!


crackwhore


Jan 13, 2002, 9:29 AM
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i routinely toss my gear from the top of towers and walls...

N. Sixshooter ?? you betcha

Castleton ?? ditto

Astroman ?? alot easier than carrying it down.


atg200


Jan 17, 2002, 7:44 AM
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What? Why on earth would you pitch gear off of Castleton Tower or the North Sixshooter? Its a fairly quick rap down, and there are usually people milling about the base of each.

If you don't want to use any booty you find, send it to me - i'll pay the shipping. PM me for an address. I have found loads of free gear, most of which I use. I've also left my fair share of stoppers and biners as rap anchors.

It also sounds like I need to climb wherever you guys are leaving cams for rap anchors.


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