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Please add Mideast Crisis
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moof


Jun 18, 2009, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 400

Please add Mideast Crisis  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park: Yosemite_Valley: Washington_Column: East_Face)
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Excellent route just right of Astroman. 5.8 A2.

Lots of overhanging pitches, great alternate start via Planck's Constant roof to skip the ooziest two pitches on the route. No copper heads (none!), very few fixed pins (maybe 8-9 total), only a few bolts (10 total lead bolts by my count, and did I mention NO copper heads?

Only a few short sections of iffy rock (middle of P5, start of P9, and a funky thing in the middle of P12).

All belays are in good shape, though the P3 anchor and the P11 anchor could handle an extra bolt (both can be backed up with gear).

Only mandatory nailing is P5 (couple beak moves, or tiny brassies), P7 (heinous flare), and if any of the fixed pins on P9 or P12 are disappear. P7 flare might be bypassable by staying in the crack to the left, it ends at the same ledge as where the flare dumps your beaten soul. The flare is god awful suckage.


(This post was edited by moof on Jun 18, 2009, 1:32 PM)


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