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skovar
Jun 24, 2009, 5:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 24, 2008
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After a year of the gym and top roping, I recently followed a few multi-pitch climbs in the Gunks. I also had several days of anchor building and gear placement classes, since I am lacking a mentor. Needless to say, I am hooked on Trad and need to keep practicing my gear placement and anchor building skills before they leak out of the side of my head. The problem is I live in the Bay Area and it seems much of the rock here is anti-trad. Since I have only been a few places in the Bay Area outdoors, does anyone have any suggestions, within two hours of San Francisco, of where I can safely practice gear placement on the ground. Thanks in advance for any suggestions P.S. If there is anyone in the area that is looking for a chance to pass on their knowledge, I am safe, fun, and eager to learn. Oh yeah, I buy good beer as well and love to fill up gas tanks :)
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shimanilami
Jun 24, 2009, 5:23 PM
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If 2 hours is your limit, then I think you're out of luck, my friend. But if you're willing to drive 3.5 hours, then there's this little crag called Yosemite Valley that you might want to check out.
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skovar
Jun 24, 2009, 5:32 PM
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shimanilami wrote: If 2 hours is your limit, then I think you're out of luck, my friend. But if you're willing to drive 3.5 hours, then there's this little crag called Yosemite Valley that you might want to check out. ha, I hear ya' brother! Figured I was going to be pretty SOL but thought I would try... I guess I will just have to drive farther and play with the big boys, or take up sports climbing... :P joking... joking...
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fxgranite
Jun 24, 2009, 5:33 PM
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Depending on how fast you drive, lovers leap is doable. EDIT: just re-read the OP. If you just want to plug gear from the ground, go check out pine canyon in Mount Diablo. Chossy sandstone at it's best but there is some history of trad climbing there.
(This post was edited by fxgranite on Jun 24, 2009, 5:35 PM)
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k.l.k
Jun 24, 2009, 6:08 PM
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If you simply want practice placing anchors, then Indian Rock is fine. There are several places to set anchors with nuts/cams/slings. It's mostly a bouldering area, but some folks (and the occasional class) also top-rope here. Remillard Park, nearby, has one short finger crack that you could tr or aid. Then there's the easy routes over at Turtle Rock near Tiburon. A handful of discontinuous cracks for t.r. anchors and short climbs.
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skovar
Jun 24, 2009, 6:12 PM
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k.l.k wrote: If you simply want practice placing anchors, then Indian Rock is fine. KLK, good call I did not even think about Indian Rock. I have only been there once, so I will make another trip and check it out. Thanks for all the other feedback as well Skovar
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docburner
Jun 24, 2009, 6:26 PM
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you can go to grotto or eastern front, both of which are about 2-2.5 hours away.
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aaronfm
Jun 24, 2009, 6:28 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2009
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I think you mean Split Rock, not Turtle Rock? It's not uncommon to see people doing their first leads up the 5.easy cracks on Split Rock. Also, there are a couple climbs near the top of Tam that are leadable on gear.
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