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Exploratory and FA Ventures
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KoreyMatthew


Jun 29, 2009, 8:44 AM
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Exploratory and FA Ventures  (North_America: United_States: Pennsylvania: Southwestern_Region: Secret_Boulders)
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Hello to anyone who might climb here,

I'm a boulder fanatic from Pittsburgh and have met a couple of you at various climbing areas near Dunbar, PA (Breakneck Rocks, Lost Crag, etc.). I recently took a venture out to the location of the "secret boulder" area and was pleasantly surprised with the potential for good bouldering! I wanted to ask if any of you would like to venture out again soon or on a regular basis (regular being vague on purpose) to develop a "guide" or at least a sketch-up of the boulders and areas? I'm not trying to take anything away from anyone, just supplement or expand on what is available on this website. If anyone is interested and has been to the area (Mike?) and would like to further explore and climb this area please feel free to e-mail me at Korndog_02@hotmail.com. I will be out there this week (Mon 7 Weds - Barring thunderstorms) trying to GPS some boulders and clean off some rad looking climbs! Open invite, but want to keep it to 4 or less!

Thanks for your time and hope someone is interested!?

Korey

Ultimate Objectives:
>Locate Boulders
>Create a Topo Sketch of area
>Mark a couple "trails"/paths of least resistance to minimize damage to area and to make an easier(well-traveled) path.
>SEND AS MANY CLIMBS AS POSSIBLE!
>Project the rest, haha.


madmike


Jul 16, 2009, 4:15 PM
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Re: [KoreyMatthew] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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whats up korey its mike from breakneck. just got back from a climbing trip to tenn and would like to meet up to do some climbing here. sent you a private message too. lets go get some fucking fa's. haha


synrock


Jul 16, 2009, 6:47 PM
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Re: [KoreyMatthew] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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You are talking about the stuff near connelsville?


madmike


Jul 17, 2009, 5:48 PM
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these are the boulders located at the bottom of the cliff at colls cove in dunbar which is near connellsville


synrock


Jul 17, 2009, 8:39 PM
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There is an amazing amount of rock in that area.


CrazyPetie


Jul 23, 2009, 12:22 PM
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Re: [madmike] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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madmike wrote:
whats up korey its mike from breakneck. just got back from a climbing trip to tenn and would like to meet up to do some climbing here. sent you a private message too. lets go get some fucking fa's. haha

Whats a "fa"? i think i dont like them.


Alpine07


Jul 23, 2009, 12:27 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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CrazyPetie wrote:
madmike wrote:
whats up korey its mike from breakneck. just got back from a climbing trip to tenn and would like to meet up to do some climbing here. sent you a private message too. lets go get some fucking fa's. haha

Whats a "fa"? i think i dont like them.

I can't imagine how this could be a serious question. But just in case it is, "FA" means first ascent. Ya know, like when somebody climbs a route for the first time.


CrazyPetie


Jul 23, 2009, 10:31 PM
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Alpine07 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
madmike wrote:
whats up korey its mike from breakneck. just got back from a climbing trip to tenn and would like to meet up to do some climbing here. sent you a private message too. lets go get some fucking fa's. haha

Whats a "fa"? i think i dont like them.

I can't imagine how this could be a serious question. But just in case it is, "FA" means first ascent. Ya know, like when somebody climbs a route for the first time.

Thanks for clearing that up for me! Have you ever seen Highlander? THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE..FIRST ASCENT!


Alpine07


Jul 23, 2009, 10:57 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
Alpine07 wrote:
CrazyPetie wrote:
madmike wrote:
whats up korey its mike from breakneck. just got back from a climbing trip to tenn and would like to meet up to do some climbing here. sent you a private message too. lets go get some fucking fa's. haha

Whats a "fa"? i think i dont like them.

I can't imagine how this could be a serious question. But just in case it is, "FA" means first ascent. Ya know, like when somebody climbs a route for the first time.

Thanks for clearing that up for me! Have you ever seen Highlander? THERE CAN ONLY BE ONE..FIRST ASCENT!

You're welcome!

Nope. You lost me. I'm gonna have to go watch it now so that I can make some sense of this...


karmiclimber


Jul 23, 2009, 11:10 PM
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Re: [CrazyPetie] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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You don't even know what a FA is? And you are going to get one? No fairz. You DO realize you get to name it if its a FA. Choose wisely.


joeforte


Jul 24, 2009, 5:23 AM
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But how do you know it is an FA? Because no one posted about the routes on the internetz? Oh wait, the "secret boulders" is on the internetz!


CrazyPetie


Jul 30, 2009, 3:23 PM
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I'm still confused.. why would anyone care if they were the first person to climb something?


joeforte


Jul 30, 2009, 6:56 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
I'm still confused.. why would anyone care if they were the first person to climb something?

I feel the same, I bet the Anasazi Indians climbed a bunch of the stuff in the desert that us white skins take credit for. Their pteroglyphs prove it in some cases!

Pennsylvania has seen many waves of generations of climbers in the past 40-50 years. I don't think anything below 5.12ish can be called an FA for sure. Moss grows quick in the northeast! Nearly everything has been climbed, even if it was many years ago...


codhands


Jul 30, 2009, 7:43 PM
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CrazyPetie wrote:
I'm still confused.. why would anyone care if they were the first person to climb something?

Nope. Don't care. Retro that mofo.


CrazyPetie


Jul 31, 2009, 5:04 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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obviously i know what an FA is, i was just ensighting a conversation/riot. Some of these projects at this "secret boulders" are for sure still projects, no one has ever bouldered at this area and if they have there is no way they would have been able to climb that hard. I'm not that concerned to be the first, or i wouldn't have posted directions. Dont be de-tracted by the copious amounts of v0's that someone listed, there are several beautiful, very hard, pure lines that need to go up. Everyone come check them out!


synrock


Aug 1, 2009, 9:58 AM
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joeforte wrote:
Pennsylvania has seen many waves of generations of climbers in the past 40-50 years. I don't think anything below 5.12ish can be called an FA for sure. Moss grows quick in the northeast! Nearly everything has been climbed, even if it was many years ago...

Trust me, there were very FEW climbers in PA 40 years ago. But there are 2 problems with that way of thinking.

First, is that bouldering is a very recent thing. Back in the day, anything between 10 - 25 feet was too dangerous to boulder without a pad and too short to bother with a top-rope.

Second is the sheer volume of boulder problems, esp in western PA. My friends and I have spent a good 6 years doing NOTHING but put up boulder problems at several areas in western and central PA. Well over 500 problems - and that simply takes man hours.

Too many PA climbers (and I was one of them) make this odd assumption that they have a handle on ALL the rock that exists in PA - yet they are only thinking about the rock near where the people live. There are huge areas of PA that people just don't have a clue about what rock exists there simply because there are no local climbers to spread the word. It is only recently that the tools have existed to find these areas.

Even in eastern PA there are new diabase areas that are still being discovered.


bowers


joeforte


Aug 1, 2009, 4:11 PM
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Re: [synrock] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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synrock wrote:
joeforte wrote:
Pennsylvania has seen many waves of generations of climbers in the past 40-50 years. I don't think anything below 5.12ish can be called an FA for sure. Moss grows quick in the northeast! Nearly everything has been climbed, even if it was many years ago...

Trust me, there were very FEW climbers in PA 40 years ago. But there are 2 problems with that way of thinking.

First, is that bouldering is a very recent thing. Back in the day, anything between 10 - 25 feet was too dangerous to boulder without a pad and too short to bother with a top-rope.

Second is the sheer volume of boulder problems, esp in western PA. My friends and I have spent a good 6 years doing NOTHING but put up boulder problems at several areas in western and central PA. Well over 500 problems - and that simply takes man hours.

Too many PA climbers (and I was one of them) make this odd assumption that they have a handle on ALL the rock that exists in PA - yet they are only thinking about the rock near where the people live. There are huge areas of PA that people just don't have a clue about what rock exists there simply because there are no local climbers to spread the word. It is only recently that the tools have existed to find these areas.

Even in eastern PA there are new diabase areas that are still being discovered.


bowers

We're still finding rock near the cities in eastern PA. There are plenty of unexplored woods. I'm not arguing that. I just think "FA" is thrown around too much anymore. For example, a ton of old trad lines are getting Retro'd around here because people think they couldn't have ever been climbed on the meager gear available on the routes. They don't understand the concept of R and X routes.

I do think that if you're breaking off obvious holds, than you probably found yourself some virgin rock.

Oh and tell John Gill that 10-25 feet is too dangerous to do without a pad. He climbed 25 foot 5.12's before pads were even invented.


(This post was edited by joeforte on Aug 1, 2009, 4:12 PM)


roclimb


Aug 1, 2009, 7:35 PM
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Re: [joeforte] Exploratory and FA Ventures [In reply to]
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I can say with absolute certainty that there are many first ascents that can still be done all over PA. Joe has probably been one of the most active climbers developing FA's in PA in the last few years--and replacing a shit-ton of bolts on old routes with his own money.

As far as SWPA, there has been at a GREAT deal of active developers at many crags there. Ivan Jirak has climbed in SWPA since the 40s! Then you have the whole Pitt Mountaineering club. And of course Mugs Stump and Cooperstein who I know for sure developed a lot of bouldering from johnstown to Pittsburgh. It's been verified the both of them developed bouldering all over SWPA. And lets not forget Tim Anderson, the SWPA guru.

The problem is people don't want to research facts anymore. They just find a bouldering spot and assume they are the first to climb there. And the real FA data is lost forever.

Thing was climbers from the 40s to 90s really didn't care about being recognized. Most I knew just climbed for fun.
~Rob


climbingpa


Aug 3, 2009, 6:29 AM
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Me... the SWPA Guru? Blush Thanks thats quite a compliment. I just consider myself a woodz ninja that likes to climb, run, and explore. I've followed leads from hunters, oldtimers, etc... Telling me of rock cliffs and boulder fields. Sometimes you get lucky and sometimes you don't. Its just that I like to climb new (to me) rock thats off the beaten path. I'd also say that I am VERY motivated to seek out "unclimbed" SWPA rock. As far as research... I love the faint trailed climbing history our area has. I've researched (still am) and found out as much as I possibly can. I've learned quite a bit about the area around me as having met with Ivan Jirak in the early 90's who paid me the large compliment of comparing me to Ed Coll. Ivan explored the area extensively and even lived in a house just a stones throw from mine in Bear Rocks. He climbed at a handful of the "local" crags. Coll's Cove, Krahlick, Rebecca, Weeping Wall as well as a few others. Ray Burnsworth is another great resource for the area. He's been climbing around here since the early 80's He and partners sought out alot of rock as well. The knobs a.k.a. Rob's Knob (great story behind that one by the way), Stewarton, Fish Rocks, Foley's wall, Lambe rocks, the list goes on. They did a lot of bouldering as well. The one thing I've learned about earlier climbers in the area was that the more difficult lines (by more recent standards) were often overlooked. Cracks were the crown jewel. Equipment was limiting no crash pads, SLCD's, etc. Bolts were basically unheard of, very few lead climbs were done. Most climbs completed were top roped. With the cap being around 10a or so. I give tons of respect to those before me. I am humbled by meeting anyone that had explored the area years before me. I know my place and the good and bad things I've accomplished for my local region. I'm proud to be an activist and love PA climbing. I'm not the climber running to the NEW or the RED just because there's "Mad amounts of better climbing bro". Yes they have good climbing, but I like it in my own back yard. There's still tons that I havn't climbed. I agree with Synrock that to believe you know all of your local climbing is absurd. Its almost impossible. I've never made it much further north on Chestnut ridge than RT 30. That Johnstown regional stuff looks incredible and I'd love to check it out. Its hard to break myself away from the searching around here to even make it that far. Sounds crazy considering that its only a 40min drive. Maybe someday. Recently I've been working with Ohiopyle state park to open up climbing there. It took about a year, but we've had great sucess and I hope that everyone get to enjoy our efforts. I know that there are differences between some significant PA climbers on RC.com (you know who you are) I have the Tim Anderson hater club out there. Threatening letters of smashed windshield, burnt car, I know where you live kind of stuff. Makes me laugh. I'm just a rock climber that hardly ever sees anyone else in the woods. I like it that way. My partner/girlfriend and I seem to do ok. I give respect to anyone that goes out in search of rock as long as they realize many others have been here before. We're the first with the drive, want and technology to document and argue so much about it. Happy climbing to all!


roclimb


Aug 3, 2009, 9:18 AM
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Great to hear from you Tim,

I've been to a few of the places you developed down near Dunbar (Gamelands 51, Knobs, Lost Crag, Powerline near Knobs, Casparis). I have to say the stuff there is AWESOME.

I always figured there is a ton of other rock around there. Wish I could have spent more time in that part of PA but it was so far for me to drive.

It's great to see people still out exploring.

Have fun out there
~Rob


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