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what are steel carabiners for?
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aarond5


Jun 29, 2009, 8:14 PM
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what are steel carabiners for?
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what are the purposes of steel carabiners?
I've heard that you can't use aluminum carabiners on steel, and that you have to use a steel one. Is this true?
or is that a myth and if so what is their purpose?
Thanks


Myxomatosis


Jun 29, 2009, 8:26 PM
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Re: [aarond5] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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coz they fucking truck


patto


Jun 29, 2009, 8:27 PM
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aarond5 wrote:
what are the purposes of steel carabiners?
I've heard that you can't use aluminum carabiners on steel, and that you have to use a steel one. Is this true?
or is that a myth and if so what is their purpose?
Thanks

Steel is often used or required in some industrial rope work.

Steel is required for Via Ferrata. Aluminium carabiners on steel cables wear quickly.

For climbing steel is next to useless. Its just extra uneccessary weight.


aarond5


Jun 29, 2009, 8:29 PM
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Re: [patto] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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so there's no reason I would need steel ones while climbing?


kyote321


Jun 29, 2009, 8:29 PM
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i like clipping them at in-siu anchors. don't know if they are actually stronger, but they feel solid to clip.Wink


willwill


Jun 29, 2009, 8:30 PM
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I have heard the same thing. I'm a noob, but I heard it from an experienced climber. Do a search for steel carabiners to find out what they are used for.


patto


Jun 29, 2009, 8:37 PM
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aarond5 wrote:
so there's no reason I would need steel ones while climbing?

No you don't. I don't know any climbers who use them. I own one but it sits at home doind nothing.

Steel carabiners around 50% stronger while being 3 times heavier. The only place I would even consider using them is in a TR anchor. However I'd rather use 2 aluminium biners. Which is already ridiculously strong and redundant.

If you are setting up a permanent top rope ie at a scout camp or whatever then steel is useful. As steel wears significantly less.


marc801


Jun 29, 2009, 8:51 PM
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patto wrote:
The only place I would even consider using them is in a TR anchor. However I'd rather use 2 aluminium biners. Which is already ridiculously strong and redundant.

If you are setting up a permanent top rope ie at a scout camp or whatever then steel is useful. As steel wears significantly less.
Rescue and rigging work usually require steel biners.


snaps10


Jun 29, 2009, 8:53 PM
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Rescue. Many jurisdictions require biners to be a minimum breaking strength of 30kn, some even require steel to be used by rescue teams. It is unfortunate because they weigh a ton, but it's the rules.
they are rediculously strong.


rschap


Jun 29, 2009, 8:56 PM
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If you couldn't clip alum to steel sport climbers would be fucked.


james481


Jun 29, 2009, 9:11 PM
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Re: [aarond5] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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I use a pair of steel biners for the power point on top rope anchors, not because I worry about the strength or security of aluminum, but because steel biners minimize or eliminate the nasty black funk on my rope (and hands) that comes off of aluminum biners.


shockabuku


Jun 29, 2009, 9:37 PM
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Gym permadraws. And yes, they do keep your rope much cleaner.


curt


Jun 29, 2009, 9:50 PM
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aarond5 wrote:
what are the purposes of steel carabiners?
I've heard that you can't use aluminum carabiners on steel, and that you have to use a steel one. Is this true?

I've known a couple of people who were silly enough to clip an aluminum carabiner into a steel bolt hanger, but quite obviously, they're no longer with us. Cool

Curt


julio412


Jun 29, 2009, 10:03 PM
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OSHA
Industrial
Fire
Rescue
Steel is easily twice as strong as aluminum, and twice as heavy.
Titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, but also heavier and unfortunately transfers heat way too fast- melted ropes, burnt lips.
Unless you're doing something professional i don't think you need any.


billcoe_


Jun 29, 2009, 10:06 PM
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Re: [james481] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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james481 wrote:
I use a pair of steel biners for the power point on top rope anchors, not because I worry about the strength or security of aluminum, but because steel biners minimize or eliminate the nasty black funk on my rope (and hands) that comes off of aluminum biners.

Bingo, me too.


billcoe_


Jun 29, 2009, 10:09 PM
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julio412 wrote:
OSHA
Industrial
Fire
Rescue
Steel is easily twice as strong as aluminum, and twice as heavy.
Titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, but also heavier and unfortunately transfers heat way too fast- melted ropes, burnt lips.
Unless you're doing something professional i don't think you need any.

All this is true as well. Steel is significantly stronger and heavier as well. Aluminum carabiners rarely fail anymore. Probably the last thing you need as a climber is some steel carabiners, I have a bunch and they are all lockers for use in Top roping, and I love em.


airdo


Jun 29, 2009, 10:14 PM
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james481 wrote:
I use a pair of steel biners for the power point on top rope anchors, not because I worry about the strength or security of aluminum, but because steel biners minimize or eliminate the nasty black funk on my rope (and hands) that comes off of aluminum biners.

I ditto this use. I run a rock climbing school and this helps us keep our ropes much cleaner.


rockclimber919


Jul 5, 2009, 11:43 PM
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the only thing you would ever need them for it top roping. i use them for clipping to hangers for tr anchors just because they take a beating and keep on trucking. and they keep your rope a lot cleaner when used for the master point. but aluminum works just fine. bottom line, more weight, more cost, unless your the type of climber that tears down a climb and drops all of your gear from the top, and yes i have seen it, you don't need them


sungam


Jul 6, 2009, 12:05 AM
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Re: [Myxomatosis] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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Myxomatosis wrote:
coz they fucking truck
Heheh, I love that phrase.
I know a few people who use the DMM steel lockers with their lead solo rig, in case of funky cross-triaxle-loading doom falls of death.


jaydenn


Jul 6, 2009, 6:25 PM
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Re: [julio412] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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julio412 wrote:
Titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, but also heavier and unfortunately transfers heat way too fast- melted ropes, burnt lips.

Almost right...

Titanium does NOT transfer heat well, thus the burnt ropes.
All the heat goes into the rope at the point of contact, very little heat is dispersed thru the biner, get it?

Aluminum DOES transfer heat well, so the heat is dispersed throughout the biner quickly and easily.

Steel also transfers well.

As far as the op's question, I use steel biners for my slackline setup.

J


irregularpanda


Jul 6, 2009, 6:40 PM
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Myxomatosis wrote:
coz they fucking truck

Hell yes.

Also, I could tow a truck with one.


bill413


Jul 6, 2009, 6:47 PM
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irregularpanda wrote:
Myxomatosis wrote:
coz they fucking truck

Hell yes.

Also, I could tow a truck with one.

And where do you think the term "truck" comes from in "they fucking truck?" Sly


shockabuku


Jul 6, 2009, 7:27 PM
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Re: [julio412] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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julio412 wrote:
OSHA
Industrial
Fire
Rescue
Steel is easily twice as strong as aluminum, and twice as heavy.
Titanium is twice as strong as aluminum, but also heavier and unfortunately transfers heat way too fast- melted ropes, burnt lips.
Unless you're doing something professional i don't think you need any.

If titanium tranfers heat faster, that's a good thing. Then it doesn't build up in the biner but is dissipated away.

Edited to add: Like that guy said^^.


(This post was edited by shockabuku on Jul 6, 2009, 7:28 PM)


rainman0915


Jul 6, 2009, 9:06 PM
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Re: [aarond5] what are steel carabiners for? [In reply to]
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there really is no need for steel biners in regular climbing, most aluminum biners are rated to like 25 kn, there is no way reasonable fall under normal circumstances could generate that much force. steel biners are rated to that much open gate, they are crazy strong like 70 kn strong so unless ur 5000 pounds taking 50 foot whippers then u have no need for these


USnavy


Jul 6, 2009, 11:14 PM
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rainman0915 wrote:
steel biners are rated to that much open gate,
No they are not. I have seen aluminum biners with stronger open gate ratings then steel ones. The highest open gate rating I know of on a steel biner is 25 kN. I have seen some as low as 5 kN which does not even meet UIAA requirements for aluminum biners. Most are 7 - 15 kN. It all depends for the strength ratings of steel biners jump all over the board but steel biners are generally only about 25 - 50% stronger then aluminum.


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jul 6, 2009, 11:16 PM)

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