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AntinJ
Jul 11, 2009, 7:53 PM
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I was at Rumney on Thursday attempting what I thought was Millennium Falcon. The moves didn't seem much harder than 10c or so, but I was pretty tired and really struggling about 2 bolts from the top on some face climbing(just to the left of a small aręte/ left facing bulge/corner). After reading route descriptions on RC.com and Mountain Project I'm starting to think I may have been off route. I went to the far left side of the ledge to a belay bolt and went straight up trending right.
Does anyone have good pics of M Falcon or thorough route descriptions that would help me determine which route I was on?
Thanks,
J
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 11, 2009, 7:55 PM)
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jakedatc
Jul 11, 2009, 8:39 PM
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oh no.. you'd know it if you were on Gunboat.. that thing is evil if you're not a uber techy climber.
Millenium goes from way left up an inside corner.. hops out left with a kinda insecure rock over/mantle . then up from there
gunboat starts a bit further right.. funky L undercling and R mono pocket.. then a lot of swearing :P
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AntinJ
Jul 11, 2009, 11:09 PM
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Thanks jake -
The route I was on felt accurate for the grade, but the description on MP made me think I was too far right. Either way, that whole section of the wall offers some really fun climbing.
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AntinJ
Jul 12, 2009, 4:11 PM
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The route we were on has 10 bolts..anyone know how many exist on M Falcon?
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jek
Jul 12, 2009, 7:29 PM
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You were on Gunboat Diplomacy. To get to Millenium Falcon you will need to go even further left on the ledge by down climbing a small four foot tall section. The belay bolt beta in the book is messed up.
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AntinJ
Jul 13, 2009, 12:11 AM
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for real,..downclimb?
Thanks Jek
(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 13, 2009, 12:12 AM)
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olderic
Jul 13, 2009, 11:41 AM
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Most people skip that downclimb and just traverse up and left to the 1st bolt on MF. If you didn't notice anything patricularily spicey/insecure around the 2nd clip then chances are you were not on GD - assuming you are not a >5.12 climber.
MF does have ~10 bolts. there is a distinct slab with a hand jam rock over mantle move about 3/4 of the way up.
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jakedatc
Jul 13, 2009, 12:57 PM
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olderic wrote: Most people skip that downclimb and just traverse up and left to the 1st bolt on MF. If you didn't notice anything patricularily spicey/insecure around the 2nd clip then chances are you were not on GD - assuming you are not a >5.12 climber. MF does have ~10 bolts. there is a distinct slab with a hand jam rock over mantle move about 3/4 of the way up.
I agree.. no way Gunboat feels "nothing harder than 10c" i HAVE climbed .12 on lead and got my ass handed to me on Gunboat on TR. and Cracklover got beat up on lead and HE climbs some .12's too
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AntinJ
Jul 13, 2009, 5:43 PM
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The route we climbed started with a short hand traverse with an awkward mantle to a blancy rest, then a hard/thin lieback/jam move up and right. After that there is a small bulge/roof just above some shrubbery. After we pulled that, we were standing in an awkward but helpful rest with a 1" horizontal crack about 8 feet long. After pulling another short bulge you trend up and right to some tougher face climbing with a "slightly" dynamic move up and right from a sloping side pull to a sloping jug then more face climbing to the chains.
BUT, I agree. The difficulty points towards MF. A 10 is a 10 and a 12 is a 12….I think I'll just have to go back and play around. Besides, that whole section of the wall has some great routes/features.
Thanks for the input.
-J
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shouldah
Jul 14, 2009, 9:10 AM
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thats gunboat, no doubt
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