Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ???
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


AntinJ


Jul 11, 2009, 7:53 PM
Post #1 of 10 (1480 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2008
Posts: 475

RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ???  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Rumney: Main_Cliff__Iron_Man_)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was at Rumney on Thursday attempting what I thought was Millennium Falcon. The moves didn't seem much harder than 10c or so, but I was pretty tired and really struggling about 2 bolts from the top on some face climbing(just to the left of a small aręte/ left facing bulge/corner). After reading route descriptions on RC.com and Mountain Project I'm starting to think I may have been off route. I went to the far left side of the ledge to a belay bolt and went straight up trending right.

Does anyone have good pics of M Falcon or thorough route descriptions that would help me determine which route I was on?

Thanks,

J


(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 11, 2009, 7:55 PM)


jakedatc


Jul 11, 2009, 8:39 PM
Post #2 of 10 (1464 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [AntinJ] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh no.. you'd know it if you were on Gunboat.. that thing is evil if you're not a uber techy climber.

Millenium goes from way left up an inside corner.. hops out left with a kinda insecure rock over/mantle . then up from there

gunboat starts a bit further right.. funky L undercling and R mono pocket.. then a lot of swearing :P


AntinJ


Jul 11, 2009, 11:09 PM
Post #3 of 10 (1447 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2008
Posts: 475

Re: [jakedatc] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Thanks jake -
The route I was on felt accurate for the grade, but the description on MP made me think I was too far right. Either way, that whole section of the wall offers some really fun climbing.


AntinJ


Jul 12, 2009, 4:11 PM
Post #4 of 10 (1398 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2008
Posts: 475

Re: [AntinJ] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The route we were on has 10 bolts..anyone know how many exist on M Falcon?


jek


Jul 12, 2009, 7:29 PM
Post #5 of 10 (1382 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 31, 2006
Posts: 2

Re: [AntinJ] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

You were on Gunboat Diplomacy. To get to Millenium Falcon you will need to go even further left on the ledge by down climbing a small four foot tall section. The belay bolt beta in the book is messed up.


AntinJ


Jul 13, 2009, 12:11 AM
Post #6 of 10 (1365 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2008
Posts: 475

Re: [jek] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

for real,..downclimb?

Thanks Jek


(This post was edited by AntinJ on Jul 13, 2009, 12:12 AM)


olderic


Jul 13, 2009, 11:41 AM
Post #7 of 10 (1340 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 17, 2003
Posts: 1536

Re: [AntinJ] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Most people skip that downclimb and just traverse up and left to the 1st bolt on MF. If you didn't notice anything patricularily spicey/insecure around the 2nd clip then chances are you were not on GD - assuming you are not a >5.12 climber.
MF does have ~10 bolts. there is a distinct slab with a hand jam rock over mantle move about 3/4 of the way up.


jakedatc


Jul 13, 2009, 12:57 PM
Post #8 of 10 (1304 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: [olderic] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

olderic wrote:
Most people skip that downclimb and just traverse up and left to the 1st bolt on MF. If you didn't notice anything patricularily spicey/insecure around the 2nd clip then chances are you were not on GD - assuming you are not a >5.12 climber.
MF does have ~10 bolts. there is a distinct slab with a hand jam rock over mantle move about 3/4 of the way up.

I agree.. no way Gunboat feels "nothing harder than 10c" i HAVE climbed .12 on lead and got my ass handed to me on Gunboat on TR. and Cracklover got beat up on lead and HE climbs some .12's too


AntinJ


Jul 13, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #9 of 10 (1281 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2008
Posts: 475

Re: [jakedatc] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

 
The route we climbed started with a short hand traverse with an awkward mantle to a blancy rest, then a hard/thin lieback/jam move up and right. After that there is a small bulge/roof just above some shrubbery. After we pulled that, we were standing in an awkward but helpful rest with a 1" horizontal crack about 8 feet long. After pulling another short bulge you trend up and right to some tougher face climbing with a "slightly" dynamic move up and right from a sloping side pull to a sloping jug then more face climbing to the chains.


BUT, I agree. The difficulty points towards MF. A 10 is a 10 and a 12 is a 12….I think I'll just have to go back and play around. Besides, that whole section of the wall has some great routes/features.

Thanks for the input.

-J


shouldah


Jul 14, 2009, 9:10 AM
Post #10 of 10 (1257 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 31, 2007
Posts: 19

Re: [AntinJ] RUMNEY: Gunboat Diplomacy, Millenium Falcon or ??? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

thats gunboat, no doubt


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook