|
thegrassr00ts
Jul 19, 2009, 2:21 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1212 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 28, 2008
Posts: 79
|
So, this is my first twelve. I made it to the top with 2 hangs the first time. I pumped out on my second ascent pulling the last move over the lip before we got chased of by rain. (Yes, I know it's overhung and doesn't really get wet but my belayer was bitching and it was late.) Anyways, not that I'm an expert on route grades or anything, especially considering this is really the first 12 I've tackled, but I got to say, this thing seems softer than Snuggle the bear. I did have some beta going in, I'm a tall guy who likes reachy, overhung problems on big holds, but I mean, this thing feels mid-11 at most. Sure there's a pump factor, a couple of toughish moves, but I just think there are plenty of 5.11's at Rumney that are much harder than this thing. The most recent guidebook I've seen has it as 12a, RC.com has it at 12b. Any thoughts on this just being a giftwrapped 12?
|
|
|
|
|
redrocker
Jul 19, 2009, 2:52 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1194 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 1, 2005
Posts: 35
|
Never look a gift horse (I mean giftwrapped 12) in the mouth.
|
|
|
|
|
jakedatc
Jul 21, 2009, 9:31 AM
Post #3 of 4
(1098 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11053
|
It fits your body type and endurance ability. simple as that. It's solid 12a.. i don't think it's 12b. rc.com is not the guidebook so.. it can be wrong.. as in this case. i think ward has it as a/b in the book but it's generally considered 12a
beta is super helpful.. it does have some hidden holds and sequences that make it alot easier knowing beforehand.
basically, be happy you sent and move on.
|
|
|
|
|
boadman
Jul 21, 2009, 10:15 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1063 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 6, 2003
Posts: 726
|
The moves are 12a, I think. It's not a hard route to send, because of it's shortness. Neither is orangahang, or pretzl logic, or silver surfer, or... wait... everything in Rumney is short and bouldery, isn't it. If you can boulder V3, you can send 12s there, no problem.
|
|
|
|
|
|
