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MikeSaint
Jul 23, 2009, 12:08 PM
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Hey Everybody,
Does anyone have a list of good cracks to get on at the NRG? After my last visit at the New I got an onsight for 'New Yosemite' and would like to log some more mileage in. Ideally cracks from 5.7- 5.10a. Preferably lines that are below .10 unless they're just that good.
Thanks so much!
(Yes I have a similar thread concerning the Red)
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mike_devildog
Jul 23, 2009, 12:18 PM
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Bridge Buttress:
Zag 5.8
Jaws 5.9
Beauty Mountain:
Burning Calves 5.10b
Happy Hands 5.9
Rod Sterling Crack 5.10b
Supercrack 5.9 classic..STOUT harder than some 10s Ive done
Mushrooms 5.10a
Just to name a few!
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MikeSaint
Jul 23, 2009, 12:30 PM
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Thanks for the names.
I hung a rope on 'Jaws' because I was with a group of noobs. That route ate me up and spit me out. It'll be awhile before I lead that thing. I'm told 'Zag' is a classic if I walked up 'New Yosemite' that 'Zag' wont be much harder. Over at Junkyard I'm reading about 'The Entertainer .10a' which also looks sweet.
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jeremy11
Jul 23, 2009, 12:41 PM
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Cowabunga and McStumpy's Sandwich Crack out at Endless Wall are classic
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currupt4130
Jul 23, 2009, 12:57 PM
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Spiderwand at Beauty, 10a
Spring Board at Fern, 10a
Fantasy at Endless 8
New Yosemite at Junkyard 9
The Entertainer at Junkyard 10a
Crack a Smile at Endless 10a
Voyeur Variation at Endless 10a
(This post was edited by currupt4130 on Jul 23, 2009, 12:59 PM)
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MikeSaint
Jul 27, 2009, 9:15 AM
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Thanks for the routes. I now have a lot of work for the next year or two. I'll be out there from July 31- Aug 3rd so maybe see some of you out there 
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knieveltech
Jul 27, 2009, 9:23 AM
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MikeSaint wrote: Thanks for the names. I hung a rope on 'Jaws' because I was with a group of noobs. That route ate me up and spit me out. It'll be awhile before I lead that thing. I'm told 'Zag' is a classic if I walked up 'New Yosemite' that 'Zag' wont be much harder. Over at Junkyard I'm reading about 'The Entertainer .10a' which also looks sweet.
Jaws chewed me up pretty good too. It ate through a two layer tape job. If you haven't done Zag yet I highly recommend it.
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minibiter
Jul 27, 2009, 9:43 AM
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also Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam, shares a start and crux with spiderwand. Beauty, it's 10a if Spiderwand is 10a.
Black and tan looked great but had a group on it last time I was there. Beauty, 10a
Fat man's folly - meandering start and short chimney section but the upper section is awesome. Beauty, 5.8
Unnamed SL #16 (I think it's 16, in the cater guide) at summersville has an awesome handcrack above the ledgy parts and the chimney. maybe the best i've climbed at the new, an honest straight splitter. but it's the only gear route in that area so maybe not worth the hike if you dont want to do sport too. I heard this route is now named Lucky #5. Summersville, round the corner from Orange Oswald between Barfing Butterflies and Scoot Your Muffin, 5.9 (stout)
Have fun!
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andersjr
Jul 27, 2009, 9:57 AM
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black and tan has some spicy gear. i think it is 10a, but for the solid 10a leader. also kens lament is good.
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Carnage
Jul 27, 2009, 11:05 AM
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minibiter wrote: Summersville, round the corner from Orange Oswald between Barfing Butterflies and Scoot Your Muffin, 5.9 (stout) Have fun!
is this route supposed to do the mini roof thing up the the giant dihedral/flaring crack thing? or are you supposed to rap from the roof (this would make it like a 40 ish foot route vs a all the way to the top route)
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currupt4130
Jul 27, 2009, 12:49 PM
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minibiter wrote: also Wham Bam Thanks for the Jam, shares a start and crux with spiderwand. Beauty, it's 10a if Spiderwand is 10a. Black and tan looked great but had a group on it last time I was there. Beauty, 10a Fat man's folly - meandering start and short chimney section but the upper section is awesome. Beauty, 5.8 Unnamed SL #16 (I think it's 16, in the cater guide) at summersville has an awesome handcrack above the ledgy parts and the chimney. maybe the best i've climbed at the new, an honest straight splitter. but it's the only gear route in that area so maybe not worth the hike if you dont want to do sport too. I heard this route is now named Lucky #5. Summersville, round the corner from Orange Oswald between Barfing Butterflies and Scoot Your Muffin, 5.9 (stout) Have fun!
Black and Tan is at Endless. And I'll agree, Spiderwand felt a hair harder than 10a. Still stellar though.
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j_ung
Jul 27, 2009, 1:17 PM
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Awful lot of sandbagging going on in this thread. Burning Calves? Sure, it's rated 10b, but c'mon...
Here's a good list that won't have you cursing cracks, rather than loving them. I stopped at 10a, and excluded any 10a I felt was particularly hard. That ought to get you started.
Zag (Bridge, .8)
The Entertainer (JY, .10a)
Happy Hands (Beauty, .9)
Super Crack (Beauty, .9+)
Rat's Alley (EW, .7)
Biohazard (first pitch only, EW, .10a)
Premarital Bliss (EW, .9)
Fantasy (EW, .8)
Graffenberg Crack (EW, .9-)
Your Mother (Bridge, .9)
Butterbeans (Bridge, 10a)
Chockstone (Bridge, .9+)
Tree Route (Bridge, .10a)
Anal Clenching Adventures (FB, (.10a)
Ritz Cracker (FB, .9)
Autumn Fire (EW, .9)
Sweet Potato (EW, .9, haven't climbed it, but hear it's quite good)
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy (EW, .9)
Voyeur Variation (EW, .10a)
Crescent Moon (EW, .7, bring big gear)
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cragmasterp
Jul 27, 2009, 2:00 PM
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J_ung has got you set up with a great list.
Would add Smooth Operator @ EW, rate 9+ I think. One of my favorites, and not nearly as hard as it looks.
Also Labrador Reliever (8) just upstream from Bubba is a hidden gem. At Cat Cliff i do believe.
Basic Bubba Crack (5.9) is a full body classic as well. Just climbed it, and really enjoyed it.
Thanks for the props on Sweet Potatoe; that is one of my routes, and was not sure it ever got climbed. It was obscure when we put in up in '89, but I reckon that area of endless now gets more action because of all the bolts in the Cirque.
P. Sully
(This post was edited by cragmasterp on Aug 5, 2009, 5:53 PM)
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j_ung
Jul 27, 2009, 2:36 PM
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In just the last two weeks, I think three people have told me it's outstanding!
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minibiter
Jul 27, 2009, 4:13 PM
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Yeah, exit the chimney to the right (not really pulling the roof, skirting it) and the crack starts there and goes up to a tree where there are rap rings (or there were the last time I was there). It's easy from there, face holds abound but the crack is uncharacteristically splitter for the area. lots of pebbles in it too.
Exiting the chimney is probably the crux, but topping out the finger crack down lower competed. You can protect the chimney exit with a bomber cam in the crack above your head. I recommend extra hand sized gear, I think I ran out both times I've been on it! But I was only 2 deep on hand cams back then and I tend to favor them.
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minibiter
Jul 27, 2009, 4:17 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: ... Black and Tan is at Endless. And I'll agree, Spiderwand felt a hair harder than 10a. Still stellar though.
My bad, checked the guide, it is at Endless, near Fantasy Crack.
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cragmasterp
Aug 5, 2009, 5:50 PM
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hey man,
if you like the Sweet Potatoe,
then you gotta try a few other gems in the vicinity that we put up during the same time frame.
Skiggle Von Wiggle - is a dramatic 5.10 flake climb that has a funky section to gain the flake. but once you get on this lay back you will see how classic it is!
High and Lively - climbs is a long trad pitch at the up-stream end of the Cirque. Starts with a fine 5.9 off-width, then step left to a stance (optional belay - also optional direct version through a roof if you don't step left, according to Gene). then you climb up and right (guide book description is incorrect here) and you gain an amazing splitter crack on an arete, with killer postioning on the edge of the Cirque! Crank out this crux(5.10c), and you are rewarded with a small stance. Clip one old hand-drilled bolt and climb past a facey move to the top. Over 120' tall and a hidden gem I assure you!
TOugh 5.10 trad though, sorry about the thread drift...
Glad to hear Sweet Potatoe (note correct spelling) is getting some action after 20 years of obscurity.
p. sully
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MikeSaint
Aug 5, 2009, 5:57 PM
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I felt like 'Zag' was a waste of time to hot right now with the rock being so polished.
Really enjoyed The Entertainer- Any comment on 'The Realignment?' The pro as consistent as the first portion of the climb?
Oh and nice list J_ung
(This post was edited by MikeSaint on Aug 5, 2009, 6:03 PM)
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j_ung
Aug 6, 2009, 5:35 AM
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MikeSaint wrote: I felt like 'Zag' was a waste of time to hot right now with the rock being so polished. Really enjoyed The Entertainer- Any comment on 'The Realignment?' The pro as consistent as the first portion of the climb? Oh and nice list J_ung
No, it's not! Realignment is a tricky, sequency onsight, on which you have to be careful not to fill handholds with gear. I highly recommend it, though. Very fun.
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