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Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19
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boymeetsrock


Jul 24, 2009, 10:00 AM
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Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19
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My first TR. Hope folks enjoy...



Its been a real busy summer for me. I got engaged!!



Which took quite a bit of planning and led to a whole lot more planning.

For that and other reasons I haven't gotten out in quite a while and the time had finally come.

I responded to a post here on RC to meet up at the Gunks on Sunday. All looked good and my expected partner sounded psyched... Until Sunday morning Pirate. Poor dude took a whiper and knocked his knee pretty good.

Well I wasn't going to make him hobble around all day. Especially since my objectives were on the far end of the Near Traps. So I told him it was all good (It was really all good dude. No hard feelings at all) and prepared to do my first roped solo with my new Silent Partner.



For a number of reasons I chose a very easy climb for the day, and decided to take my time. I settle on Eowyn, on the Williams Wall. A gorgeous 150' 5.4 with much exposure, and a nice straight forward line.

Since there has been some recent discussion regarding land issues at the Nears, i decided to approach from the top of the cliff. This was an adventure in itself, as I had not previously rapped in on this part of the cliff. I usually just walk across the base.

So I enjoyed the views on the walk up.





A very nice place to lay in rest.





And eventually found a rap station and made my way down.


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Jul 24, 2009, 10:10 AM)
Attachments: Engagement Photo - small.jpg (26.3 KB)
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  Gunks 0719 021 - 2.jpg (28.1 KB)


boymeetsrock


Jul 24, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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I decided to enjoy lunch and let the sun move over head a bit before I started. Eowyn starts on a nice 5.2 slab to a ledge. From the ledge the climbing gets closer to vertical and is very enjoyable.





Towards the top things get a bit broken, but there is a nice path through the middle. Tap those rocks to check all the same though.




A nice spot to hang out for a few.




(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Jul 24, 2009, 10:32 AM)
Attachments: Gunks 0719 031 - 2.jpg (33.8 KB)
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boymeetsrock


Jul 24, 2009, 10:29 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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Once I made the top, it was back down to the bottom to do it all over again.

The Silent Partner really shined on this climb. I had taken it our for a TR day, and it was a lot of work and a bit of a headache to TR with. But, on the lead it was smooth as a baby's bottom! I found it easy to move on the rock and the rope slid right through the SP as I moved. I back packed the rope which was nice I thought.

Since the route was mostly vertical I didn't have any trouble TRing as my own second. There were a couple of occasions where the rope fed itself through the SP on its own while TRing. But, for the most part I had to kind of manually belay myself as the slack gathered. This was as simple as lifting and the dropping the devise back onto my harness.

So I took all afternoon to do this one very easy climb. Not because I couldn't go faster, but because I didn't want to. I'm still learning the system with the SP and this was a day of combined "homework" and vacation! I Had a great time taking my time!

Eventually all things must come to an end...





The Deli Parking lot^^


I was HOT and stinky, so it was off to the hole for a swim!





And then the lonely drive back to NJ.


All in all it was a GREAT day. I was SO glad to get out, and very happy to have had a great day with my new SP. Cant wait to get back!!


codhands


Jul 24, 2009, 11:02 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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Sounds fun, thanks for the report!


Gmburns2000


Jul 24, 2009, 11:31 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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nice report, dude. congrats on the egagement, btw.

also, thanks for showing that plaque. I didn't know it was there. I love things like that for some reason.


boymeetsrock


Jul 24, 2009, 11:59 AM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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Thanks Greg, we are psyched!




The plaque is tucked away up at the top of the cliff. I was searching for a rap anchor. I thought this ledge had nothing to offer me. Then the plaque caught my eye.


It really is a beautiful little spot. I took a minute to read the plaque, get the photo, and appreciate the place. And then, as if a gift from Kenichi himself, a rap anchor appeared on a nearby tree.

Pretty neat!


fresh


Jul 24, 2009, 12:06 PM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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nice report!


pumpkin


Aug 12, 2009, 3:20 PM
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Re: [fresh] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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Talk about crazy! I'm the person that placed the memorial plaque for Ken on this ledge. What's nuts is that I don't climb at all these days and never search or look at climbing related sites. I was bored and for the first time in a couple of years was surfing around to see what's new in the climbing world. All of a sudden, bang, there's a picture of this plaque.
Ken was one of my good friends and climbing partners. I remember him as a positive, energetic and supportive person; a craftsman, father and husband. Injuries he suffered as the results of a leader fall in the Traps took climbing away from him. The space in his life that was once filled with physical activity slowly became filled with a dark depression. In the end Ken took his own life.
It was a call from Ken's parents that broke the news of his death to me. They had arrived from Japan to settle what ever it is that needs settling in these situations, they were shellshocked but clear and confident that some of his ashes should remain in the U.S. Later that day I met with them, upon their request I took half of the remains to do with what I saw fit. I had this plaque made and scattered the ashes from a somewhat off the beaten path ledge over in the Nears.
Thank you for posting the pictures, I now live in the Pacific North West, have not been back to the Gunks in years but have at time wondered if the plaque was still there. It's great to see that it is and that on occasion someone stumble across it.


boymeetsrock


Aug 12, 2009, 4:22 PM
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Re: [pumpkin] Silent Partner - Gunks 07/19 [In reply to]
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Wow. Thank you very much for sharing pumpkin!

It is a shame about Ken, that he became so depressed. Although I think I can see where that would come from. A very sad story indeed. It sounds like Kenichi's days on this earth were certainly not wasted, though.

Pumpkin, you paid a very nice tribute to Ken. The plaque is a wonderful monument and is so beautifully placed. It still shines in the daily sun.

The plaque was a good omen for me. Stopping to read it and breath the fresh air allowed my day to happen in the great way it did. (as opposed to trudging through the thicket the rest of the morning.)

You may not read this post since you don't come around here often, but thank you very much for sharing. The Fates, huh?!


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