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USnavy


Jul 25, 2009, 12:25 PM
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EPC guides?  (North_America: Mexico: Nuevo_Le_n: El_Potrero_Chico)
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I am considering going to EPC in late September / early October and need a climbing bud for 14 days. What are some of the guiding options for the area? Smile


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jul 25, 2009, 12:26 PM)


gblauer
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Jul 25, 2009, 12:59 PM
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Re: [USnavy] EPC guides? [In reply to]
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Are you asking about hiring a guide at EPC? You can reach out to Luis at Posada and he can arrange a guide for you.

A slightly riskier, but, less expensive option would be to just show up. There are plenty of climbers there who would love to make some extra $$$ guiding. That said, it would be incumbent on you to check references.

Another option would be to get in touch with magic Ed (potreroed on this site). Ask him for some names or ask him to organize a guide for you. He lives there and knows everyone.

Finally, why do you need a guide? There are plenty of moderates (if you can lead 5.8) and many of the climbs are softly rated, so there are lots of options.

Let me know if you need more information.

If you are looking for guidebooks, that's a different question. The most recent books are by Dane Bass (The whole enchilada) and Ed (Potrero Select).

have fun, there is a lifetime of climbing at EPC. Wear you brain bucket at all times.


USnavy


Jul 25, 2009, 4:35 PM
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Re: [gblauer] EPC guides? [In reply to]
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gblauer wrote:
Are you asking about hiring a guide at EPC? You can reach out to Luis at Posada and he can arrange a guide for you.

A slightly riskier, but, less expensive option would be to just show up. There are plenty of climbers there who would love to make some extra $$$ guiding. That said, it would be incumbent on you to check references.

Another option would be to get in touch with magic Ed (potreroed on this site). Ask him for some names or ask him to organize a guide for you. He lives there and knows everyone.

Finally, why do you need a guide? There are plenty of moderates (if you can lead 5.8) and many of the climbs are softly rated, so there are lots of options.

Let me know if you need more information.

If you are looking for guidebooks, that's a different question. The most recent books are by Dane Bass (The whole enchilada) and Ed (Potrero Select).

have fun, there is a lifetime of climbing at EPC. Wear you brain bucket at all times.

Yep, I am asking about hiring a guide. I am looking for a guide because I donít have a climbing partner and I have never been to Mexico so I donít know where anything is. Furthermore I would like to try my hand at Time Wave Zero and considering I have never climbed anything longer then grade III- I would want someone very experienced with me on that route.

I do have another question for you though. Are there reasonable hotels around the crag or is camping the only option? If there are hotels in the area, what do they go for per night? Should I rent a car?

And lastly, how "sporty" are the multi-pitch routes there? Some tell me the climbing there is straight up sport with a bolt every 8 - 12 feet from start to finish and some say its more "alpine sport" with bolts 20 - 30 feet apart in some places. Should I bring any trad gear at all?

Thanks. Smile


(This post was edited by USnavy on Jul 25, 2009, 6:01 PM)


gblauer
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Jul 25, 2009, 7:20 PM
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Re: [USnavy] EPC guides? [In reply to]
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Ok, you don't have to camp. You can rent a room in a house with an ensuite bathroom at Homeros, for 20 per night. You can rent a room at Posada (all types of rooms, from hotel type to basic bedrooms, no bath). The Pagoda also has rooms for rent. All of those places have kitchens where you can cook breakfast and prepare your own lunch. Many people go out for dinner, as it's really inexpensive.


You do not need to rent a car, Luis or Homero or Ed can organize your transportation to/from MTY. You can walk to the cliff.

I did TWZ and it's a tough climb. the 21st pitch is a 12, so you better have a lot of skill and endurance. The first 14 pitches were fine, but then the route gets significantly steeper and the pitches are at least 5.10. Don't forget, you also have to rappel 23 pitches. It took us 13 hours round trip and we linked pitches.

The climbs at EPC are really well bolted, typically 10 feet between bolts. Search for EPC favorites, I published a list of favorites on Rc.com. It's pure sport climbing, not alpiney at all.

Snot girlz, Satori, Space Boyz, Estrallita, Yankee Clipper are all really great climbs.

I think that you could find some people to climb with if you start looking now. Use RC.Com to see who is going to be there at the same time as you. Mitch and I may be there from october 25 through the 31st.


(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 26, 2009, 6:21 PM)


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