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Good 5.10, easy pro routes ?
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gregory_huey


Jul 29, 2009, 8:11 PM
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Registered: Mar 2, 2006
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Good 5.10, easy pro routes ?  (North_America: Canada: British_Columbia: Squamish)
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Hello,
In two weeks I'm making my first visit to Squamish - will be climbing for a week, doing mostly trad (but a bit of sport also - maybe for a day or so). I'd like some suggestions as to the best trad routes in the 5.10 range that are easy to protect. Crack is good, face is also good if it will take good pro (or has a bolt where it won't). Slab is ok, but not my strongest style. I'd like recommendations for both multi and single pitch.

Also, where is a good concentration of nice hard 11/easy 12 sport routes? (maybe a days worth of climbing?)

Thanks,
Greg


hafilax


Jul 29, 2009, 8:27 PM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2007
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Re: [gregory_huey] Good 5.10, easy pro routes ? [In reply to]
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The McLane guide has a list in the beginning of good cracks ranked by grade.

The ones I've done and enjoyed:
Apron Strings and Split Pillar 10b (1st 1/2 of the Grand Wall 11a but many do it and rap off).
Exaspterator 10a 1st half 10c second can be done as 1 pitch
The Zip 10a
Elephantiasis 10c
Split Beaver 10b off-width
Angel's Crest 10b (multipitch with many 10a pitches)
Buttress 10c
Paul's Crack 10a
A Little Testis 10a
Smoke Bluff Connection 10a multi

I have my eye on:
Centre Street 10c
Supervalue 10c
Mercy Street 10b
Rock On 10a multipitch
Jungle Warfare 10a 3 pitch
Right Wing 10d multipitch
Climb and Punishment 10d

There's a lots more than that all of good quality in the Bulletheads and on the Malmute... hell everywhere.


davidbr


Jul 31, 2009, 5:11 PM
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Re: [gregory_huey] Good 5.10, easy pro routes ? [In reply to]
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A couple of other classics are Seasoned in the Sun (single pitch 10a) and Birds of PRey (muti-pitch 10a/b)

If you feel like a walk, there's Silent Ladies (10b). It's only one pitch, and a longish approach, but can be combined with March of the Kitchen Utensils (5.9, 5 inch crack, 30m).

If you're open to 5.9's as well, there are some great multi-pitches on the apron (Vector, South Arete, St. Vitus' Dance), as well as the single-pitches High Mountain Woody, and Penny Lane.

Enjoy.


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