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Tactix23
Jul 26, 2009, 10:44 PM
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I would like some help on coming up with a routine for the gym so I can use my time there most efficiently. Lately I have just been climbing everything because I have just been getting better and better, but now that I'm at v4-v5 I'm gonna start to actually spend more than one day on a climb.. I go tuesday night for 2 hours. After working at my liquor store job (so I do lifting there) I go thursday for 3 hours and I don't work before that I go friday for 3 hours.. And sunday for 3 hours by myself I would like to have one day for top rope, one day for working on a new boulder problem, another day for solidifying recently beaten hard problems, and one day for just climbing everything I can to work on endurance.. Any thoughts? I would like to optimize my recovery time too if possible. I can't do top rope on sunday because I'm alone
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Tactix23
Jul 26, 2009, 10:46 PM
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I'm thinking... thursday should be top rope.. friday should be endurance day, because I'll be sore from the night before tuesday should be working on a new problem and sunday should be going over recently done hard problems sound good?
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keepitcreative
Jul 26, 2009, 11:09 PM
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I don't know if that will actually help you to get better. Whenver I go to the gym, I climb what I feel like climbing. If i wanna get into some projects this particular session, i get on them, if I just wanna boulder some easy things, I do, if I want to lead climb, I do, etc. I don't have fun when i feel obligated to do someting specific each time. As long as you're syked, you'll get better whatever routine you do.
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Tactix23
Jul 26, 2009, 11:18 PM
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keepitcreative wrote: I don't know if that will actually help you to get better. Whenver I go to the gym, I climb what I feel like climbing. If i wanna get into some projects this particular session, i get on them, if I just wanna boulder some easy things, I do, if I want to lead climb, I do, etc. I don't have fun when i feel obligated to do someting specific each time. As long as you're syked, you'll get better whatever routine you do. fair enough. I understand that over thinking things and even not switching things up is a bad idea when doing physical activities.. But I would like to optimize my time in the gym. I also work out every other day and so recovery time and where you place your workouts is pretty important. It's the difference between having no energy and the difference between over working your body to the point of muscle breaking down
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keepitcreative
Jul 26, 2009, 11:46 PM
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So you're working out everyday of the week ? I'm no doctor, but that may result in an injury. Taking at least 2/3 days off during the week might help you to get stronger. You have to let your muscles recover from activities if you want to improve. Plus, when you get back to the gym/project outdoor/whatever, you more fresh and way more syked, thats helps . Anyway that's just my 0.02$
(This post was edited by keepitcreative on Jul 26, 2009, 11:47 PM)
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Tactix23
Jul 27, 2009, 12:36 AM
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keepitcreative wrote: So you're working out everyday of the week ? I'm no doctor, but that may result in an injury. Taking at least 2/3 days off during the week might help you to get stronger. You have to let your muscles recover from activities if you want to improve. Plus, when you get back to the gym/project outdoor/whatever, you more fresh and way more syked, thats helps . Anyway that's just my 0.02$ I understand your need to help but i know what I'm doing when it comes to working out... The body will recover in 24 to 36 hours.. If you set up your climbing and workout routines properly, you will have no problem doing both with plenty of recovery time... There is no upper body push in rock climbing, it is all pull That is why I am asking about setting up a climbing routine, because I am aware of how important proper recovery time is Edit: and yes, saturday and sunday I am off from my workout routine
(This post was edited by Tactix23 on Jul 27, 2009, 12:36 AM)
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Carnage
Jul 27, 2009, 12:40 AM
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I've been on an aerobic endurance hard on recently. most people say train by traversing for long periods of time. i cant handle the boredom of this. i've gotten into doing lots of easier boulder problems instead. on a good day i send v6/7 and in the gym i do the rounds of every route in there from v0-v2 (takes me about 90 min). you want to find a difficulty that doesnt make you get pumped but still gets you a little tired feeling. give it a shot on your endurance day
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Tactix23
Jul 27, 2009, 1:10 AM
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Carnage wrote: I've been on an aerobic endurance hard on recently. most people say train by traversing for long periods of time. i cant handle the boredom of this. i've gotten into doing lots of easier boulder problems instead. on a good day i send v6/7 and in the gym i do the rounds of every route in there from v0-v2 (takes me about 90 min). you want to find a difficulty that doesnt make you get pumped but still gets you a little tired feeling. give it a shot on your endurance day yeah i was doing something similar myself.. how long of breaks do you take if any at all on your endurance day?
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damage
Jul 29, 2009, 6:04 AM
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enough rest time is about NOT injuring the tendons and the ligaments in your fingers. there is some good advice here about training. try the Self-Coached Climber edited to add i just picked up 2 of eric horst's books, they're an interesting read and there's been a lot of talk here on the training methods in them, dunno if you've looked at them. pah! I had to find out from him that there aren't any muscles in the fingers themselves. damn the public library for it's free books, I've gone and learnt something. no doubt it will happen again. good luck with your training.
(This post was edited by damage on Aug 1, 2009, 7:00 AM)
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tmarkert
Aug 1, 2009, 6:07 AM
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Pick a day to work on traversing and (if you have access to a) slack line .... Traversing is a great workout, and builds endurance and technique.. Slack line is great for core / Abdominals, balance skill, and footwork... This is my normal tuesday routine: 1 lap traverse entire gym 5 minutes slackline 2 easy boulder problems 5 min slack line Repeat process for predetermined amount of time
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Tactix23
Aug 1, 2009, 12:31 PM
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tmarkert wrote: Pick a day to work on traversing and (if you have access to a) slack line .... Traversing is a great workout, and builds endurance and technique.. Slack line is great for core / Abdominals, balance skill, and footwork... This is my normal tuesday routine: 1 lap traverse entire gym 5 minutes slackline 2 easy boulder problems 5 min slack line Repeat process for predetermined amount of time No slackline at my gym :(. That is balancing on a horizontal rope right? Looks hard haha.. Perhaps I will set up tuesday as a traverse/easy boulder day.. Sounds good
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Tactix23
Aug 1, 2009, 12:32 PM
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damage wrote: enough rest time is about NOT injuring the tendons and the ligaments in your fingers. there is some good advice here about training. try the Self-Coached Climber edited to add i just picked up 2 of eric horst's books, they're an interesting read and there's been a lot of talk here on the training methods in them, dunno if you've looked at them. pah! I had to find out from him that there aren't any muscles in the fingers themselves. damn the public library for it's free books, I've gone and learnt something. no doubt it will happen again. good luck with your training. Very good point... If I'm not climbing, which is 3 days a week, I think i will benefit from doing nothing in terms of grip stuff... Thank you guys
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Aug 1, 2009, 10:14 PM
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Yeah, I hope youre warming up properly. I take a good 15 minutes to stretch thoroughly and do some light dynamic stretching like jumping jacks or anything of that nature. Basically just to get the blood pumping and my muscles loose. Lately Ive been running about 3 miles twice a week and climbing twice a week also. I havent ran this consistently since the military and after the first time I was sore for like 3 days, just useless haha. It has really improved my climbing game, I am able to recover alot faster while resting for a few secs on a route which in turn gives me a deeper pump. I had hit a climbing plateau and didnt see much improvement over the past couple months but running has really lifted me outta that. I have been able to send this finger crack Ive been working for like 5 months and sent this other one that is nothing but small crimps up a 45 degree wall. That was an awesome feeling, I was psyched like crazy.
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subantz
Aug 2, 2009, 4:09 AM
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Wake up to a loud alarm hit the button. Fall back to sleep, repeat till you need to be to work in 15 minutes. Show up to work with coffee and figure out what happened and how you got to work on time sleeping at traffic lights. Hope this helps.
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mecalekahi-mekahidyho
Aug 4, 2009, 10:57 PM
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That's good, alot of people I see just run straight up to their proj and fire away, only to be pumped out 15 minutes later. I just laugh, especially if its my partner because he knows better and now he becomes my belay slave for the remainder of the day. I think routines are good, but having multiple varying routines that you constantly switch up to throw some muscle confusioin in there really helps also. Im sure you know this stuff but I like to think I can help hahaha. Off topic: I was at the crag and it was dead quiet yesterday. I was already warmed up and working the crux of a semi-difficult route when I let one rip that sounded like a freekin trumpet. It was dead quiet up until that point, then I could hear like 15 people snickering. It was epic haha.
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bill413
Aug 5, 2009, 12:47 AM
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subantz wrote: Wake up to a loud alarm hit the button. Fall back to sleep, repeat till you need to be to work in 15 minutes. Show up to work with coffee and figure out what happened and how you got to work on time sleeping at traffic lights. Hope this helps. Don't forget catnaps in office / at desk. Have you been watching me?
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linkon654
Aug 16, 2009, 2:25 PM
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I understand your need to help but i know what I'm doing when it comes to working out... The body will recover in 24 to 36 hours.. If you set up your climbing and workout routines properly, you will have no problem doing both with plenty of recovery time... There is no upper body push in rock climbing, it is all pull [url=http://productreviewsby.me/nature-cleanse/] nature cleanse
(This post was edited by linkon654 on Aug 16, 2009, 2:30 PM)
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Tactix23
Aug 16, 2009, 3:18 PM
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linkon654 wrote: [url=http://productreviewsby.me/nature-cleanse/] nature cleanse http://www.dildo.com
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