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River's Bend
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IPissonurproj


Aug 4, 2009, 6:42 AM
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River's Bend  (North_America: United_States: West_Virginia: Roped_Climbing: Seneca_Rocks_Region: The_Panhandle: Franklin_Gorge)
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I just want to say that this area is siiiiiiiick as far as the quality of REAL limestone goes. None of that lime/sandstone bullshit choss found at the main Franklin "proper" area. All I want to know is, who's got the route beta/topos on the River's bend area? There are a lot of great routes here, but I haven't found any good topos. Is there any kind of guide?


dreday3000


Aug 4, 2009, 10:56 AM
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Re: [IPissonurproj] River's Bend [In reply to]
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How big is the area? I've always avoided Franklin but have been hearing nice things about the River Bend lately. Has there been new development or something?


IPissonurproj


Aug 4, 2009, 11:56 AM
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Re: [dreday3000] River's Bend [In reply to]
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That's what I want to know! I've been there twice and can't understand why there's not more beta on this place! the rock is damn near European quality caliza hombre!!. Maybe cause there aren't many "easy" climbs?? Cause you have to either bushwhack for 45min, or park at the "secret" spot and take the tyrolean across the river? There has to be almost 30 climbs on that face!!


dreday3000


Aug 4, 2009, 12:21 PM
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Re: [IPissonurproj] River's Bend [In reply to]
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IPissonurproj wrote:
I've been there twice and can't understand why there's not more beta on this place! the rock is damn near European quality caliza hombre!!. There has to be almost 30 climbs on that face!!

Really?! Well sounds like I'll have to take a trip out there when the weather cools down a touch. Most things are twelve and up right? Face climbing or cave thugury?

You know, I've heard mixed things about the rock quality. A buddy of mine went a few years ago and was bitching about pulling off dinner plates. Sounds like that is no longer a problem.

Anyone out there got some Beta for us?


IPissonurproj


Aug 4, 2009, 12:31 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] River's Bend [In reply to]
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dreday3000 wrote:
IPissonurproj wrote:
I've been there twice and can't understand why there's not more beta on this place! the rock is damn near European quality caliza hombre!!. There has to be almost 30 climbs on that face!!

Really?! Well sounds like I'll have to take a trip out there when the weather cools down a touch. Most things are twelve and up right? Face climbing or cave thugury?

You know, I've heard mixed things about the rock quality. A buddy of mine went a few years ago and was bitching about pulling off dinner plates. Sounds like that is no longer a problem.

Anyone out there got some Beta for us?

Mostly face --> gently overhanging, no caves

there is def some choss down low on the routes (near where the cliff meets the river) but for the most part the rock is awesome


cclarke


Aug 4, 2009, 12:58 PM
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Re: [dreday3000] River's Bend [In reply to]
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Mostly thin and reachy on vertical rock. It's really easy to find and the rock quality is very high compared to other nearby limestone areas.

I'd guess there are about 20 routes there with about half being very good. Definitely worth a few trips from DC.

Plenty of info in the routes section.


(This post was edited by cclarke on Aug 4, 2009, 1:04 PM)


rockandlice


Aug 4, 2009, 7:39 PM
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Re: [cclarke] River's Bend [In reply to]
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cclarke wrote:

Plenty of info in the routes section.

Including the Topo which covers the area.


IPissonurproj


Aug 5, 2009, 4:50 AM
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Re: [rockandlice] River's Bend [In reply to]
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rockandlice wrote:
cclarke wrote:

Plenty of info in the routes section.

Including the Topo which covers the area.

The only "Topo" there is consists of 2 pictures which show about 1/3rd of the entire face and 3 of about 30 routes...

I was hoping somebody had a little more info than is currently on this site. I'll keep searching


cclarke


Aug 5, 2009, 6:38 AM
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Re: [IPissonurproj] River's Bend [In reply to]
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What more do you need to know? They are less than half a pitch bolted routes. You can see all from the base.


dreday3000


Aug 5, 2009, 7:03 AM
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Re: [cclarke] River's Bend [In reply to]
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I for one would be interested to hear how people actually felt about the area. Good movement? Fun climbing?

Honestly, Franklin has a pretty shoddy reputation as far as I'm concerned. I don't really enjoy the climbing in the main area and iIts going to take more than a couple photos and route description to get me out there.

Based on the OP, I'm considering it. So if anyone has strong feelings about the Riverbend - for or against - I'd love to hear it.


lodi5onu


Aug 5, 2009, 7:17 AM
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Re: [dreday3000] River's Bend [In reply to]
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This topo shows some Route grades and locations, but it's missing a lot and seems pretty outdated...
http://mgreeby.home.mindspring.com/franklin.htm

River's Bend area is a lot different than Franklin proper...rock AND route quality is a lot better IMO

Routes tend to be facey and technical, it is, afterall limestone! Take your own pulley for the tyrolean in..the ones hooked to the cable are rusted and worn out


cclarke


Aug 5, 2009, 7:27 AM
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Re: [dreday3000] River's Bend [In reply to]
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I think it is the best sport area for a day trip from DC if you like to climb routes harder than 5.11.


lodi5onu


Aug 5, 2009, 8:35 AM
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Re: [cclarke] River's Bend [In reply to]
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cclarke wrote:
I think it is the best sport area for a day trip from DC if you like to climb routes harder than 5.11.

+1


rockandlice


Aug 5, 2009, 9:25 AM
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Re: [IPissonurproj] River's Bend [In reply to]
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IPissonurproj wrote:
rockandlice wrote:
cclarke wrote:

Plenty of info in the routes section.

Including the Topo which covers the area.

The only "Topo" there is consists of 2 pictures which show about 1/3rd of the entire face and 3 of about 30 routes...

I was hoping somebody had a little more info than is currently on this site. I'll keep searching

I wasn't referring to the user pics. Look above for the mgreeby link.


roninthorne


Sep 2, 2009, 4:12 PM
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Re: [rockandlice] River's Bend [In reply to]
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Good technical face routes from 5.9 to 5.13+, many of the "new routes" are link-ups between routes.

Kind of sketchy rock down low, kind of 5th class at a few places at the base/belays, with a good chance of at least yer pack taking the tumble into the river. But definitely fantastic winter climbing, if you don't mind changing clothes and attending to nature's call in full view of the hunting cabin across the river. The folks who own the cabin are completely cool beltway refugees who seem amenable to further development of the far side of Franklin (across the river), which they own from the cabin to the stream/waterfall opposite the parking lot wall.

(The area upstream from the parking lot is owned by folks who would rather not have that land over-run by climbers.... please respect their decision.)

(This post was edited by roninthorne on Sep 9, 2009, 9:07 AM)


dreday3000


Sep 3, 2009, 2:12 PM
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Re: [roninthorne] River's Bend [In reply to]
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Thanks, good beta.


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