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ldrmn
Aug 4, 2009, 9:53 PM
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Registered: May 6, 2009
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I have been climbing for a couple years now and a question just dawned on me...
For example, lets say that "Minor Malfunction" is a trad route, its rated 5.12a. Would that route still be a 5.12a if they bolted it for sport climbing? Or would it drop the difficulty down to a 5.10d?
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kriso9tails
Aug 4, 2009, 9:59 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
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It should generally be rated on the difficulty of the moves and not how the climb is protected. The grade should remain the same. If it gets retrograded, it should still be based on the difficulty of them moves and unrelated to how the climb is protected.
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dolphja
Aug 4, 2009, 10:12 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2001
Posts: 298
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dude, tell me someone is not going to skrew up a trad line. those bolts will be chopped in about a month if that happens. won't be me doing it but, if it can be done on gear, leave it like that.
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bennydh
Aug 4, 2009, 11:11 PM
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Registered: May 2, 2005
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Free solo it and it will probably feel like a 5.7. Placing Trad gear adds at least 8 letter grades, and sport bolts add at least 4 letter grades.
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ldrmn
Aug 5, 2009, 12:23 AM
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Registered: May 6, 2009
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bro, of course im not gonna screw up a trad line! ha!
im gonna need something to practice on when i pick up trad! which is hopefully sooner, rather than later...
i was just curious...
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