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wonderwoman
Aug 5, 2009, 5:06 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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We may be heading there this weekend for our first time ever. I'll be cracking open the guide book tonight, but was wondering what folks might recommend or if there are logistical things we should know.
I lead Gunks 5.8 - 9
Husband leads Gunks 5.10 - 11
Anything that we absolutely must get on? Or recommended areas?
Thanks for any info!
Tiffany
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olderic
Aug 5, 2009, 8:47 PM
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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Like Cathedral on streroids.
Get on Gamesmanship at Poke-O
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cush
Aug 5, 2009, 9:24 PM
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another vote for gamesmanship at pokeomoonshine. also, keene valley has tons of great stuff.
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Dynosaur85
Aug 5, 2009, 10:24 PM
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I live in the dacks n poko is def a must! the high peaks offer some slide climbing but Snowy Mtn at indian lake has some of the highest sport routes in the east at nearly 4000 ft theres a 5.10d i believe is the hardest rt. featured on the cover of Adirondack Rock Good lUck mtn has great crack routes that are very clean and rock is top quality...But for a wide variety of grades with several different crags and everything from 5.5 to 5.13a good rock tons of lines pokos probably a good bet
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Adk
Aug 6, 2009, 2:37 AM
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Registered: Dec 2, 2006
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Shanty Cliff!!!!!
Clean, well developed, sport as well as trad.
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gojiclimber
Aug 6, 2009, 2:54 AM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2009
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For single pitch the beer walls has something for everyone.
Stay at the chapel pond campsites they are close to everything.
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wonderwoman
Aug 6, 2009, 3:08 AM
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Thanks everybody! This is great info! I'm looking at the guidebook and getting pretty psyched.
I do like long multi pitch routes, and it looks like there are plenty to be had!
Psychosis looks fun. Anybody do Spectacular Rising Traverse? It looks pretty wild, minus the 5.7R section which might be a little too wild for me!
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jimlawyer
Aug 6, 2009, 12:00 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2002
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The SRT wouldn't be my first choice of routes at Poke-O, but it is a historic route. The 5.7R part is shared with FM and is the section right off the belay. The first pitch of the traverse is bushy with brief sections of exposure, and the second is more airy, but easier. The final 5.8 corner is dirty, but the 5.9 variation is good.
-Jim
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wonderwoman
Aug 6, 2009, 1:20 PM
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Wow! I think that it's very cool that one of the authors' of the guidebook would respond to my request for beta. Thanks for the info!
Also - we will be rolling in very late at night. Since we have never been there before, where is the most obvious and easiest place for us to camp? The guide book says Chapel Pond Pass is very popular for climbers, but where we are getting there late I doubt we'll get a site there.
Thanks to all of you for this info. I am getting very excited!
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jimlawyer
Aug 6, 2009, 4:00 PM
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Registered: May 10, 2002
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Chapel Pond has just a couple car camping sites (at the Outlet, and a couple pullouts near the Boquet several miles east of the pond), and a few tenting sites (near the base of Chapel Pond Slab, and various other pullouts). Not a great selection, and perhaps best explored during the day. Depending on where you're driving from, it might be better to camp 30 minutes beforehand. For example, if you're coming from the west, then there are many sites along Route 8.
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wonderwoman
Aug 6, 2009, 4:45 PM
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We're in Boston, MA so it looks as if the best route is 89N through Vermont. The other option is 87N. We're leaving Boston at 5pm so I guess maybe we'll be setting up camp somewhere around midnight.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 7, 2009, 6:21 PM
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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At Poko:
Gamesmanship
Sunburst Arret
Fastest Gun (? didn't see what grades your looking for)
Poko S. Slabs offer some good fun too.
Washbowl: (more tall climbs)
Hesitation
Partition
These cliffs are easily accessible and offer a wide variety of multi pitch and single pitch. You can always walk the 4 miles to Wallface too!
And as suggested the Beer Walls have much to offer. Be aware of reported rock foll on or about Pegusus, though.
Good luck and have LOTS of fun!!! I love the Daks personally!!
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wonderwoman
Aug 7, 2009, 11:56 PM
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Registered: Dec 14, 2002
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Woohoo! On our way & thanks for all the beta! Apparently we have to stay in a hotel or bandit camp tonight. They don't let you in any campgrounds after 9pm.
Where is the best beer & food?
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