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Getting out wedge bolts.
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paintinhaler


Nov 1, 2001, 5:50 PM
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Getting out wedge bolts.
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 I have found a old hardware store wedge bolt on a popular climb in my local area. I want and need to replace it, But I dont know how to get it out. Can any one help before this bolt snaps.


paintinhaler


Nov 1, 2001, 6:05 PM
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Getting out wedge bolts. [In reply to]
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Oh most people dont lead it but I wanted to start leading it. Some people have told me about it so, I want to fix it. Thats it

[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2001-11-01 19:23 ]


compclimber


Nov 1, 2001, 8:26 PM
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Getting out wedge bolts. [In reply to]
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If its really about to fail the you should be able to get it out with a crow bar or 'funkness' devise. If you dont know what a "funkeness" is then I can tell you in a personal message or Dr. Piton could tell you.

On a quick little side note, Even though your going to make the climb safer you should ask the FA if he/she doesnt mind.


Partner rrrADAM


Nov 1, 2001, 10:09 PM
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Getting out wedge bolts. [In reply to]
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If it's truely a wedge bolt, just loosening it, giving it a sharp tap with the wrench will allow you to remove it with your fingers.



greatgarbanzo


Nov 2, 2001, 10:47 AM
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FROM: How To Rebolt
by Chris McNamara, ASCA President

To remove most bolts drive a thin piton under the hanger repeatedly from as many different direction as possible (#4 Lost Arrow is usually the only pin you will need although there are cases where you must start with a knife blade and work your way up).
Once the bolt has popped out as much as it can (about a 1/2" from the wall) slide a crowbar under the hanger and pull. For stubborn bolts alternate positions with the crowbar to avoid bending the bolt in one direction. For those especially stubborn bolts avoid the urge to "bounce" the crowbar pack and forth. This weakens the head of the bolt and will eventually cause the bolt to shear. Instead of bouncing, plant your feet on the wall and pull harder or get two people pulling on the crowbar. The problem with crowbars is that they exert an angled force on the bolt which frequently causes the bolts to break. Using a "tuning fork," you get much lower breakage rates, and have to carry far less weight.
"Tuning forks" are made simply by grinding out the center of a #3 or #4 Lost Arrow. The resulting tool (which resembles a tuning fork) is driven under the hanger and can often remove the bolt without needing a crowbar. It can be made at home or ordered through the ASCA, which has them professionally milled to retain strength lost when the metal is heated in home milling.
There is one strict rule to replacing bolts: once you have begun pulling a bolt, do not stop until the bolt pulls out or breaks. Leaving a bolt that you have started pulling is creating a deadly situation for the next climber. If the bolt does break do your best to camouflage the hole with epoxy. Many types will work but hand-mixed epoxies such as "RepairItQuik" (available at Home Depot and many hardware stores) are the most convenient. Once the hole is filled with epoxy, work in some rock dust on the surface to camouflage it.


paintinhaler


Nov 2, 2001, 4:31 PM
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Getting out wedge bolts. [In reply to]
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 I understand. This is no regular rawl bolt. You can easyly take them out. This is not the 1/4 inch bolts eather. If you have ever seen a fixe bolt, well this one is like that but the sleve is in the rock soild. The more I pull on the bolt to get it out the more it pulls the wedge more in to the sleve and gets tighter. So if you understand. I have done alot of bolting and have gotten out fixe and other types. I understand what you have said. Thanks for posting

[ This Message was edited by: paintinhaler on 2001-11-02 16:35 ]


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