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mindlessroller21
Aug 6, 2009, 9:57 PM
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I'm in the process of rounding out my gear so I can lead without borrowing gear.
I want to buy slings to make " bitch clips" as I've heard them called or the sling that you girth hitch to your belay loop and use to connect to the shuts so you can go off belay and set up your rap or lower.
I was wondering what an Ideal length is. I was thinking a foot and a half or two feet maybe? Is 1 foot to small?
Are there any other properties I want the sling to have? I'm guessing they should be static. Anything else?
edit: something like this maybe?
http://gearx.com/...ing-13mm-x-60cm.html
thanks!
(This post was edited by mindlessroller21 on Aug 6, 2009, 10:01 PM)
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shimanilami
Aug 6, 2009, 10:55 PM
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I've never heard the term "bitch clips" before, but what you're doing is pretty common. 60cm/24" slings are a standard size that will work just fine for this purpose. Some people simply use quick draws, instead. Either works.
Static or dynamic doesn't matter.
That Gear-X deal is pretty good. If I was in your shoes, I'd buy 10.
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brawa
Aug 6, 2009, 11:00 PM
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That sounds good, but sometimes I find it hard to get my waist within 1 or 2 feet of the anchors.
I have a PAS-type sling. You can also buy a 4ft/120cm sling and put a few overhand knots in it to give you some length options for when you're clipping in, which I've also done.
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coastal_climber
Aug 7, 2009, 2:41 AM
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I second that gear-x deal. My partner has tons of those slings and they seem to go forever. Good buy!
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rainman0915
Aug 7, 2009, 3:43 AM
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for clipping the bolt hanger try a daisy chain, as for the draw slings thats a good deal.
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jeepnphreak
Aug 7, 2009, 5:38 PM
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Yea, there is not real set way of doing that. I use the p.a.s by metelouis. Some use a daisy chain, sum just use a sling or quick draw.
I do a lot of mulit pitch so it nice having a easly adajustable anchoring system that I just keep on my belay loop.
what ever you decide on just climb safe.
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code08
Aug 8, 2009, 2:48 AM
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I generally have a double length runner (4 ft) attached to me with a knot in the middle. Wrap it around yourself and attach it to your clip in point and it's out of the way the whole climb. At the top you have the 4 ft option of if you want to be more personal with your anchors you can move to the 2 ft option.
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CrazyPetie
Aug 8, 2009, 3:06 AM
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Heres a light weight smaller option: I use a ~12 inch dynema sling, hitch that to my belay loop with a locking carabiner on the other end. Clip that to either side so its out of the way. Then when you get ot the anchors, whip it out, pull yourself up on the draws and clip into both of them. Seems safe enough for me. This way you arent lugging a bunch of unneccessary webbing or extra quick draws around.
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currupt4130
Aug 11, 2009, 1:06 AM
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Two 60cm slings and two lockers. If you're just climbing sport routes that's more than adequate.
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steinmethod
Aug 17, 2009, 5:44 PM
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PAS.. you can easily adjust how close you need to be to the anchors. Works like a charm!
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johnwesely
Oct 27, 2009, 3:11 PM
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Just get that sling, girth hitch to your harness, clip a carabiner to it, and clip it to the anchors. I really don't get the PAS business.
Edited for accidental punctuation.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on Oct 27, 2009, 3:11 PM)
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bigjonnyc
Oct 27, 2009, 3:21 PM
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currupt4130 wrote: Two 60cm slings and two lockers. If you're just climbing sport routes that's more than adequate.
+1
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steinmethod
Oct 27, 2009, 3:22 PM
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johnwesely wrote: Just get that sling, girth hitch to your harness, clip a carabiner to it, and clip it to the anchors. I really don't get the PAS business. Edited for accidental punctuation.
What is there not to get about the PAS? Girth hitch to your harness and then clip into with which ever loop you want to the bolt... Its very easy to adjust your lengh.... Great for Multipitch....
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johnwesely
Oct 27, 2009, 3:28 PM
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steinmethod wrote: johnwesely wrote: Just get that sling, girth hitch to your harness, clip a carabiner to it, and clip it to the anchors. I really don't get the PAS business. Edited for accidental punctuation. What is there not to get about the PAS? Girth hitch to your harness and then clip into with which ever loop you want to the bolt... Its very easy to adjust your lengh.... Great for Multipitch....
I get how to use it, but I think it is a rather large waste of 30$. It takes me about 30 seconds to clean an anchor. I don't really care to much if my sling length is not exact. Also, for multipitch, I always go into the anchor with a clove hitch. It is way more adjustable than a PAS and is not limited by the length of the sling. I could extend myself 200 feet away from the anchor if I wanted to.
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steinmethod
Oct 27, 2009, 3:29 PM
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johnwesely wrote: steinmethod wrote: johnwesely wrote: Just get that sling, girth hitch to your harness, clip a carabiner to it, and clip it to the anchors. I really don't get the PAS business. Edited for accidental punctuation. What is there not to get about the PAS? Girth hitch to your harness and then clip into with which ever loop you want to the bolt... Its very easy to adjust your lengh.... Great for Multipitch.... I get how to use it, but I think it is a rather large waste of 30$. It takes me about 30 seconds to clean an anchor. I don't really care to much if my sling length is not exact. Also, for multipitch, I always go into the anchor with a clove hitch. It is way more adjustable than a PAS and is not limited by the length of the sling. I could extend myself 200 feet away from the anchor if I wanted to.
I have to agree with your points as well. Personal preference. It is pretty expensive. For each there own!
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maldaly
Oct 27, 2009, 5:06 PM
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Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for a POS (oops PAS) or "bitch" slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points.
The leader climbs normally until they reach the anchors.
The leader then clips each anchor with a 24" runner rather than a draw. Lower.
When the second gets to the last bolt before the anchors, she unclips the rope she's tied in to and clips the other strand.
At the anchors she unclips one of the runner from the rope and clips it directly to her belay loop. Then the other.
Now, still on belay through the last bolt, she unties and re-threads the lead rope, or even better, pulls up 6' of slack, pushes a bight of rope through the anchors, ties a F8 on a bight and clips in with a locker or two.
Now the leader takes to check the system, unclips and cleans the runners and lowers off.
During this transition the leader is never off belay and is always clipped into at least two pieces.
The two runners at the top are nice because if gives the climber room to make the transition without having to have extra gear.
This system works well regardless of whether the climber lowers or raps.
Climb safe,
Mal
[rant] There is no stupider or useless call than, "I'm in direct" or "I'm in straight." It serves no other purpose that to tell your belayer that they can relax and stop paying attention. I don't know about you but I want the full attention of my belayer until I get to the ground. [/rant]
(This post was edited by maldaly on Oct 27, 2009, 5:10 PM)
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johnwesely
Oct 27, 2009, 5:21 PM
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maldaly wrote: Here's a cool method for topping out on a sport route that eliminates the need for a POS (oops PAS) or "bitch" slings. Better still, the climber re-threading the anchors will always be secured through at least 2 points. The leader climbs normally until they reach the anchors. The leader then clips each anchor with a 24" runner rather than a draw. Lower. When the second gets to the last bolt before the anchors, she unclips the rope she's tied in to and clips the other strand. At the anchors she unclips one of the runner from the rope and clips it directly to her belay loop. Then the other. Now, still on belay through the last bolt, she unties and re-threads the lead rope, or even better, pulls up 6' of slack, pushes a bight of rope through the anchors, ties a F8 on a bight and clips in with a locker or two. Now the leader takes to check the system, unclips and cleans the runners and lowers off. During this transition the leader is never off belay and is always clipped into at least two pieces. The two runners at the top are nice because if gives the climber room to make the transition without having to have extra gear. This system works well regardless of whether the climber lowers or raps. Climb safe, Mal [rant] There is no stupider or useless call than, "I'm in direct" or "I'm in straight." It serves no other purpose that to tell your belayer that they can relax and stop paying attention. I don't know about you but I want the full attention of my belayer until I get to the ground. [/rant]
That is going to need some serious pictures for me to understand it. I just clip into the anchors with my sling, put a bight through the rings, and tie an eight on a bight. It is fast and I am never off belay.
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