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BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear
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rockreaver


Aug 7, 2009, 7:07 AM
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BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear
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I've seen a lot of posts about people wanting to start into trad and I saw this at Mountain Gear (online). I figured I'd share it for those searching for "bundled gear". At the same time I'll ask the vets what they think of it?

Is this a good start? Will it let a new trad leader have a solid shot at most routes out there?

http://www.mountaingear.com/...G/item/640395/N/1046

If I had wads of cash to blow I'd probably start with this as a base but I cannot help but think you could do way better just going piece by piece and sale to sale.

{EDIT} I'm not really asking this for myself. I'd never buy a package because so many factors determine what you really need. I shared it because I've seen quite a few posts where people ask about "bundles" of gear. So if you are a bundle person this is your ticket.{/EDIT}


(This post was edited by rockreaver on Aug 7, 2009, 7:44 AM)


ckirkwood9


Aug 7, 2009, 7:17 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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You can def save a lot if you go with sales (REI has 20% off sales quite often... that's a good time to pick up cams)

The content of the package you mention is a nice start and will get you up many routes. BUT depending on where you climb (and how cautious you are with placing/backing up your gear placements), you probably will want to double up on a few commonly-used pieces.

There are no small cams in this package. No comments on which to go with because it'll surely start a flame war. :)

And you'll want to get a bunch of biners/slings for trad draws and a few lockers.

Oh... and a PAS (or webbing/sling) for anchor tie-in.

And a shiny-new belay device.

And a pair of trad shoes

And a 70-meter, bi-color, dual-dry rope

And a chalk bag

and a......

If getting into trad... be prepared to become gear-whorish. :)


kennoyce


Aug 7, 2009, 7:25 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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Just looked at what comes with the package and the price even on sale is not a good deal.

You would do much better just paying full price for everything but the hexes since you won't be using those after a month or two anyway.

Just wait until REI has one of their sales where camalots are 20% off, then you could doubles of all the cams in the package for the price of that package, it's another 70 bucks on sale for the nuts, and 50 bucks for the slings.

This way you'd get a lot more useful gear for just a bit more money, plus you could dump one of the number 4 camalots and that'd almost cover the price of the nuts since as a new trad climber you won't be using the number 4 that often anyway.

Basically the point of my post is that hexes are useless on a new trad leaders rack. Save your money and don't get them. If you ever get into alpine climbing you may want to pick up a couple of hexes to shave some weight and to backup rapells but you will never need all of the hexes that come in that package.


rockreaver


Aug 7, 2009, 7:34 AM
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Re: [ckirkwood9] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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I wonder how many dude's have several thousand bucks in climbing gear that is arranged in the garage all impressively and never, ever gets touched? Probably there's more gear whore's that don't climb than there are that do.Crazy

{Nothing below here should be taken seriously.}
Yeah. I'm a gear-whore and I admit it. It's fun and I'm bored in life so I enjoy it. Plus when I climb TR with two ropes, a big pack, tons of gear, a shoe half the size of my feet, pink Varnets and zinc on my nose it makes me feel cool. For some reason a lot of people older than 17 laugh and snicker but kids think I'm really cool. REI has given me my own parking spot.

I feel cool. I often put on all my gear and look in the mirror. Then with gear in place I get on my ladder and heel-hook onto the roof to get toys down. I build an equalized SERENE anchor with the chiminey. Then I sew up the shingles. I dual-wield rope-guns when I put up Christmas lights and they go up with a locker every 18". Some of my bigger decorations get stoppers or cams. I love to rap off my garage. It's only 8 feet but the neighbors think I'm cool. I once volunteered to rescue a cat up in a tree but I couldn't figure out how to get up the tree. I pulled out my shark-nut tool and cut the tree down (took me like 6 days) the cat died from starvation or the fall but I got him.

{Nothing above here should be taken seriously.}

Okay so back to being serious. Trad climbing is definitely a way to up your whore potential. :) I see a lot of people here asking about starter racks and such so I figured I'd just throw this one out there.

I'm not a fan of "cookie cutter" packages and would rather pick pieces but it would make a decent foundation that you could fill out as you climbed more.


(This post was edited by rockreaver on Aug 7, 2009, 7:46 AM)


rockreaver


Aug 7, 2009, 7:36 AM
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Re: [kennoyce] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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Yeah I wasn't looking for me. I'm climbing right now with a guy that has about a $5000 rack. He makes me lead and try everything. When I find pieces I really like he tells me what to buy for my own rack. It's a bit slower in the short-run but overall I'll be happy with the results.


MS1


Aug 7, 2009, 7:40 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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I'm still learning to lead trad, so take what I say with a grain of salt, but I think a new leader will need biners and extra slings more than all the hexes in that package. Small cams are nice too, but it depends what you can afford.

On the other hand, I don't think a #4 is useless to a new leader. At least where I climb (RRG), I've found a lot of easy to moderate routes that I want to climb, but that feel pretty run-out without a large cam or two. That being said, large cams are pricey, and you can usually borrow someone else's when you need them.


apeman_e


Aug 8, 2009, 8:07 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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it's a terrible deal. use spadout.com.


suprasoup


Aug 9, 2009, 8:55 AM
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Re: [rockreaver] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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rockreaver wrote:
Yeah I wasn't looking for me. I'm climbing right now with a guy that has about a $5000 rack. He makes me lead and try everything. When I find pieces I really like he tells me what to buy for my own rack. It's a bit slower in the short-run but overall I'll be happy with the results.

You hit the nail on the head right there rockreaver. Any prospective leader should already be familiar with the gear needed for his/her area. Finding a mentor and seconding routes gives you an idea of what you want or need. Your local climbing gym or shop is also a great resource.


AntinJ


Aug 9, 2009, 4:46 PM
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Re: [suprasoup] BD New Leader's Rack @ Mtn. Gear [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I'm climbing right now with a guy that has about a $5000 rack.

WOW.

Aid rack? OR quadruples of everything?


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