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MalpaG3
Aug 7, 2009, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Mar 9, 2009
Posts: 17
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Hey all!
Just moved to Denver, and me and two other friends are looking to climb the standard East route up the Third Flatiron.
A few questions first.
I've read a few places that the bolts/belays were played in the 30's. Are these still safe?! I'd have to imagine that they've been replaced.
We're going Sunday (Aug 9th). Is it going to be jam packed? We're hoping to start early (9ish).
This will be my second trad climb ever, but I'm a comfortable hard 10/easy 11 sport climber. Any thing I should know?
Our rack is a pretty small but standard rack:
nuts #5-11; camalots .5-3 with doubles of 1; runners; tons of draws. Anything else we should need?
I've read up using Sharp End's Flatirons book, so I think I know what I'm getting into.
Also, is it open as of August 1st as the book indicates?
Cheers!
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angry
Aug 7, 2009, 7:02 PM
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Registered: Jul 21, 2003
Posts: 7647
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It's open
It's easy
It's crowded
It's hot (really hot)
The bolts are probably fine since they're like 3/4" but you'll be dead long before they catch you if you fall. Expect to go 75' or more between gear frequently on this route. You're soloing and dragging up the rope to get down.
It's a lot of fun, hopefully it won't be too hot.
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dhorgan
Aug 7, 2009, 7:36 PM
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
Posts: 77
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what angry said.
also, i'd either start at like 2 or 3pm or start at 7am. The 2 or 3 approach has the advantage of being able to have breakfast at Lucile's in downtown Boulder before you climb. But bring a headlamp if you go that way. Nice and early might be best, probably cooler.
And as he said, expect very, very long intervals between pro. It's basically near-soloing a lot of the time. Especially spicy when you get to all the white paint painted over with brown paint near the top, where someone painted a "CU" long ago and then some eco-terrorists painted over that. Anyhow, paint's a bit slippery. But I've soloed it quite a few times and it sounds like you're a lot stronger climber than me.
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