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boymeetsrock


Aug 3, 2009, 8:30 AM
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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Yeah. My Dad is 68. I wasn't sure if you were asking me or Greg.

He is not much of an "outdoors man" in the camping/ mountaineering sence. But he is always working outside up on his or my sisters roof, or painting his house on his ladder scaffolds 25-30 off the ground.

He needed some help with a big tree limb recently. It needed to be cut with a chain saw (guess we could have invested the hours with a regular saw) while still attached high up in the tree. It took a little convincing, but I wasn't about to stand there and watch him up on the tree or on a ladder, so I went up. Gotta admit I was scared. And he woulda just went up there no complaints. The stuff he does scares me blind sometimes. hehe

Maybe that's where I get my adventurous spirit from? Cool


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 10:01 AM
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This was from two weekends ago.

Why does Cannon hate me again? This is just another example of me having tough days where the Old Man used to live. Unsure


boymeetsrock


Aug 10, 2009, 10:30 AM
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Nice Greg!

Hey, am I crazy or is that article on the Climbing Magazine web site?


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 10:56 AM
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Re: [boymeetsrock] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Nope, not crazy. I've been on there since June. I'm splitting my posts between my normal blog and theirs.

Thanks. Tried climbing this weekend, though, and the ankle still hurts. Unsure Gonna have to take a couple of weeks off. Bummer, but that's the way it goes sometimes.


boymeetsrock


Aug 10, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Congrats on the Climbing gig!!

Sorry to hear the ankle is still soar. But do yourself the favor like your saying and rest.


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 11:22 AM
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Thanks. Yeah, it's pretty cool. I'm enjoying it.

I doubt I'll climb again any time before the last weekend in Aug. That should be long enough.


Partner cracklover


Aug 10, 2009, 12:19 PM
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Re: [Gmburns2000] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Nope, not crazy. I've been on there since June. I'm splitting my posts between my normal blog and theirs.

Clicky?

GO


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 12:35 PM
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Re: [cracklover] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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fifth post above yours. Laugh


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 12:36 PM
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but here is the overall blog page there.

http://www.climbing.com/...derblogs/greg_burns/

edit: the first link i posted just goes to the most recent post.


(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 10, 2009, 12:36 PM)


ratherbe


Aug 10, 2009, 6:18 PM
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“An Unexpected Crusade” or “When One Climb Equals Enough Adventure for A Weekend”

In hindsight, the goals for the weekend might have been a bit ambitious for the mere weekend warrior and her injured-ankle partner. So the plan on Saturday was to hit Whitehorse and do the first three pitches of Children's Crusade, rap down and then go do Lost Souls. A few weeks ago, we'd done Hotter Than Hell and Inferno, so I was thinking another 5.9 and then pushing it with a 10a would be possible, even though I haven't done a ton of Whitehorse climbing.

So we walked up to Children's Crusade and I looked at the first bolt way, way, way up there. Sure, it's an easy walk up the dike... but it's a sideways walk. And the wall bulges out a little bit at one point. I feel really shaky and unsettled the whole way up. I clip the piton, then make the half move required to clip the bolt a few feet up and right of the piton. Rest. Breathe. Scope out the moves to the next bolt. With a sketchy step down and a move up on very thin face holds, I gain the next good stance and clip the second bolt, noting the bail 'biner left on the bolt. A glance up and the third bolt looks a mile away and the good holds only last for about 5 more feet. Um. Bail 'biner. Unfortunately, I am impressionable and have to admit that it crosses my mind that if someone else had to bail here, maybe I do too. I move up shakily, gaining sloping holds and am convinced there are no further hand holds and am petrified of falling. I know, it's a bolt, but it feels like it will be just too far a fall. I down climb and then hang and then bail.

After some time has passed, I decide I HAVE to get on it again. At the second bolt again. I make the moves to the slopers then convince myself to let go, fall. Ok, I got that out of the way. This time, when I get to the slopers, I think about doing another exorcise-the-demon fall, but then I just decide to go for it. I work out the moves and suddenly I've clipped the third bolt. Another glance up and the next bolt again looks a mile away, but the holds look decent and I decide to only pay attention to the next two moves, then the next two and so on. And I'm quickly to the bolt. Next, I go up and traverse to the anchors, continuing to only pay attention to the immediate moves and block out the distance I've gone or still have to go. I'm at the anchors. More emotionally drained than ever before on a climb. I eye the second pitch as my partner works his way up the first. I'm not sure I want to continue, but if I don't, I'll have to come back and do it again some day.

The second pitch had some thin scary moves off the belay, but after that, it consisted of a very enjoyable route finding adventure. I wove my way back and forth, following the path of least resistance and gear placements. It was exciting and fun, pausing to read the rock and determine what would be the best way to gain the next few feet. Eventually, I gain the belay ledge and begin bringing up my partner. Again, I eye the next pitch as he works his way up. Again, looking at the climb ahead, I'm not sure I want to continue but I'm sure I don't want this last pitch hanging over me, unfinished.

Throughout the entire climb, Greg provided excellent support and encouragement and I started up the third and final pitch, loving having the crack for protection but cursing the pain in my toes from the crack! Then I'm at the top of the crack and can see the anchors. And nothing between. No bolt. No way to protect the next moves. My next good hand hold 6 or 8 inches too far away to reach from my current stance. I pretend I'm stepping on to some little nubbin and reach up to use what looks like an intermediate hold, but is actually crap and yet my hand sticks and I manage to gain the good hand hold. Now I need to move up and right, on non-existent feet. Oh, another mantle, I'm starting to get good at these. I move into it, but start to feel my right foot slip as my left foot fights with my left hand for room on the hold. I get it just in time to avoid an ugly fall onto the low angle crack below, where my last protection is. Every fiber of my body is shaking so hard that the next move is harder, even though it's not. I breathe and get gear in and then make the final easy moves to the anchor. I'm so glad to be done. And so glad to have done it.


(This post was edited by ratherbe on Aug 10, 2009, 7:02 PM)


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 6:56 PM
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Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy


(This post was edited by Gmburns2000 on Aug 10, 2009, 6:58 PM)


ratherbe


Aug 10, 2009, 7:07 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote:
Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy

Crap, I forgot to mention we did this without ropes? Tongue


Gmburns2000


Aug 10, 2009, 7:16 PM
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Re: [ratherbe] Weekend Warrior [In reply to]
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ratherbe wrote:
Gmburns2000 wrote:
Now that's weekend warrior material. I bet you're the kind that doesn't really need the pep-talk though. I bet once you went up you had it in your head that you were going to make it to the top.

Well done and thanks for sharing.

edited to say: oops, didn't realize you mentioned me in the writeup. You didn't in the facebook note, so I didn't want to steal your thunder here. Tongue

PS - thanks for leaving the part about the forgotten ropes out. Crazy

Crap, I forgot to mention we did this without ropes? Tongue

'cause, um, yeah, that's the real story. Shocked


boymeetsrock


Aug 10, 2009, 7:43 PM
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Sweet!!!


gblauer
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Aug 17, 2009, 5:34 AM
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The weekend Report.

I headed for the gunks last Wednesday night with plans to climb Thursday through Sunday. So what happens? I wake up to pouring rain on Thursday monring, with all climbing hopes dashed, I walked the carriage road loop. It rained all day Thursday until late in the afternoon. I contemplated running up to the cliff to see if there was anything dry, but, I didn't have a partner, so I just stayed home.

Friday was beautiful, albeit hot, sunny and humid. At least it wasn't raining. We hit the nears and enjoyed a nice warm up on Birdland and then headed to Elder Cleavage. My that was one very hard first pitch. Awkward, slippery and strange. Not sure I would repeat. P2 on the other hand was quite lovely. Easy climbing up to the roof, a few tricky moves to the roof and then you pull the roof with a surprisingly easy move. A fun climb, but, not sure I loved p1. We wrapped up Friday on Alphonse, a mild, happy climb that can be done in a single pitch to avoid the belay.

I was uber cranky on Saturday (hormones perhaps?) We started on Classic, always fun, but, somehow I felt "off" and didn't like the feel of the rock. It felt slimy, greasy and slippery. We then headed over to Baby. It was actually the first time that I have ever done Baby and felt good about it. I used real off width technique, got my feet in there, chicken winged my arm and then finally got my whole leg in the off width. Hooray, I think I can easily lead this one! Then came Miss Bailey to Big Chimney. I hated this climb. I hated the chimneys (I have no idea what I was thinking when I suggested the climb.) The only nice pitch on that climb was P3 of Miss Bailey, a very thoughtful 5.6 that had some suprises. The only thing I can say about the chimneys is that they offered respite form the heat. We finished up on the That Nice Seven where I ran laps to try and chase away my crankiness.

Yesterday was a bit of a scorcher. It was hot, sunny and humid by 9AM. We ran to the arrow wall so that we could warm up on Three Doves and then hit Feast of Fools. Three Doves is great, albeit some tricky think face climbing on P2. Feast of Fools was amazing. P1 is sustained and it just keeps on giving. As the second I cleaned all the gear enroute and was proud to have sent the thing without any hang time. I even cleaned and racked all of the slings! All that gym climbing up the overhangs really helped me on this climb. My feet actually cut at the first roof...very dramatic! P2 was really sort of a two move wonder, worth doing.

Since I had to leave early (on the road by 4), we ran back out and climbed The Blackout over by Betty. Now the book says it's 5.9 G, but how can that be if there is a 5.8 R section on P3? Must be yet another typo. P1 is forgettable, but P2 and P3 are where it's at. P2 has a nice traverse (big hands, little feet) and P3 has that spicy run out to a little roof with a bolt. The roof was the mildist roof I pulled all weekend.

All in all a nice weekend of climbing even though I was really cranky. Hopefully next weekend will be better!


Gmburns2000


Aug 17, 2009, 6:34 AM
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How was the rock in the 'Gunks? Was it hot enough for the rock to sweat?


gblauer
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Aug 17, 2009, 6:53 AM
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Friday and Sunday were fine. Saturday I felt like the rock was geasy, sweaty and slimy.


Gmburns2000


Aug 17, 2009, 6:56 AM
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what the rock soaketh after the rains it sweateths on hot days.


boymeetsrock


Aug 17, 2009, 2:16 PM
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Nice. That's a good few days of climbing despite "having a case of the Monday's".

Thanks for sharing! I'll have to check out some of those pitches.

btw, were the chimney's crappy 'cause you were grumpy, or were they just plain crappy?


gblauer
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Aug 17, 2009, 5:56 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote:
btw, were the chimney's crappy 'cause you were grumpy, or were they just plain crappy?

I think if you like chimneys you will love these climbs. Personally, I learned that I really don't like chimneys.


AntinJ


Aug 18, 2009, 8:59 PM
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Nice Gail - Three Doves is one of my favorite climbs at the gunks! I was there on Saturday and it was a scorcher..


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 7:24 AM
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Here's my version of my recent trip to NoCo with Ratherbe. She was a trooper, and the weekend turned out to be a good one.

Ratherbe's Return


boymeetsrock


Aug 21, 2009, 10:55 AM
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Go Ratherbe! Way to send Lady!


Gmburns2000


Aug 21, 2009, 10:59 AM
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she was good that day. it was a tough start for her, but once she got pissed off enough she just went up and did it.


boymeetsrock


Aug 21, 2009, 11:11 AM
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I've definitely been in similar positions. Sometimes you just have to decide to get it done, and then employ tunnel vision in order to focus on the task at hand and block out the distractions.

Good on her for weighing the risks and pushing through to success!

Hope the ankle heals up soon.







And Greg, next time bring the damn ropes dude! Tongue You owe "Savior" a 12 pack at the least!

edit speeling Crazy


(This post was edited by boymeetsrock on Aug 21, 2009, 11:12 AM)

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