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SummitSnowStorm
Aug 5, 2009, 9:17 PM
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The question is, what do you attach to a placed piece of gear,say a DMM nut or a cam?
Here in Spain I´ve seen most people attach a 60 cm dyneema sling with two carabiners on it to the piece of gear. However,on trips to other places,I´ve seen people use quickdraws.
What do you guys do in the States?
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cush
Aug 5, 2009, 9:21 PM
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i've seen both used but a majority of people i've seen use a longer sling tripled over to shorten it. that way, you get the best of both worlds. if you need something quickdraw length, just use it as it. if you need something longer you can extend it out. i've also seen people that only use quickdraws for shorter placements and use extended trad draws for longer ones.
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moose_droppings
Aug 5, 2009, 9:46 PM
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You can also use a 30cm runner with 2 biners on it depending on the situation.
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suprasoup
Aug 5, 2009, 9:54 PM
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Slings. Get the longer slings and triple em like Cush mentioned. Way more versatile. girth a tree, horn, etc.
Edit: impromptu friction hitch for rappeling.
(This post was edited by suprasoup on Aug 5, 2009, 9:56 PM)
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taydude
Aug 5, 2009, 10:11 PM
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...i think the slings most people use (dyneema) are not acceptable for friction hitches. The material is too slippery.
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coolcat83
Aug 5, 2009, 10:56 PM
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relic? nah, i like the mammut nylon slings, that hitec stuff just doesn't have the durability to inspire confidence in me.
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RockLimbaugh
Aug 5, 2009, 11:51 PM
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Every situation is different and depends on too many factors.
But the "60 cm dyneema sling with two carabiners on it to the piece of gear" is the most versatile" if you have the money to replace it more often than nylon.
And only if you know how to use it properly.
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SummitSnowStorm
Aug 6, 2009, 12:05 AM
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RockLimbaugh wrote: And only if you know how to use it properly.
What do you mean exactly?
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harpo_the_climber
Aug 6, 2009, 4:00 PM
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suprasoup wrote: taydude wrote: ...i think the slings most people use (dyneema) are not acceptable for friction hitches. The material is too slippery. Good call on that one, my bad. Forgot that most people use dyneema nowadays. I'm a relic from the days of nylon and spectra 
I had problems tying Kliemhiests (sp?) with my BD 10mm Dynemma (or was it some other high tec material) slings in the past, but my Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings held fine in a Kliemhiest. It might have been a different hi tec material than the BD slings, but also the narrow width bites better than the wider widths. Showed some wear after using it to ascend a pitch, but I would still fall on it.
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kheegster
Aug 7, 2009, 3:04 AM
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For most trad climbing there is no reason to use stiff quickdraws unless you don't have enough slings to use as tripled draws. They're less likely to transmit rope motion and make your gear walk. The Swedish climber Goran Kropp died in Frenchman's Coulee in WA a few years back when his pro walked out when he fell while leading a 10a.
Also your typical trad climb will wander quite a bit (unless its a splitter crack), and extended slings are critical for reducing rope drag.
As for dyneema vs nylon, there's nothing to stop you from using a mix of them. I use mostly dyneema plus a couple of nylon draws.
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uni_jim
Aug 11, 2009, 10:56 PM
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i bring three "floppy" (not stiff) quickdraws, and seven trippled runners for trad routes.
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squishy654
Aug 11, 2009, 11:06 PM
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I use about 10 tripled alpine draws and two 18-20cm tripled draws, I recently found the shorter ones to be quite handy...
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shimanilami
Aug 12, 2009, 12:18 AM
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I've got a dozen skinny 60cm mammut slings tripled over as trad draws. I've also got a dozen of those slinky helium quickdraws. I take a mix, depending on the route I'm climbing.
Simply put, more wandering = more trad draws.
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bozeclimb
Aug 14, 2009, 9:59 PM
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One of my occasional climbing partners carries the majority of his cams with alpine draws already connected. This makes 2 carabiners plus a shoulder-length dyneema sling on each. The middle biner (attached to the cam and the sling) is easily clipped to gear loops or a gear sling. I am becoming a convert. Even without extending it, the extra weight and length of the draw isolates the cam from rope movement and seems to prevent walking. Plus, as I tend to climb a lot of routes that wander, I often extend the sling. Without the draw pre-clipped, it is easier not to bother. I also carry 3 to 5 12-inch draws, which I find very useful. Cheers
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