|
IsayAutumn
Aug 14, 2009, 1:03 PM
Post #1 of 9
(1769 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355
|
Hello. I am going to be driving through Yosemite in mid September and plan to spend one full day there climbing. I am a relatively new trad leader and my partner, while a good athlete, has never climbed outside on real rock  He has climbed fairly extensively indoors, for what it's worth.
Can someone recommend an area that has good routes in the 5.6-5.9 range? I know nothing about the valley, but I would prefer areas that are easy to protect and don't have a super long approach. In checking out the route database, it looked like possibly Swan Slab and Yosemite Falls areas would be decent. Does this jive? Multi-pitch routes are fine. Thanks in advance for your help.
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2009, 1:10 PM
Post #2 of 9
(1765 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8196
|
Swan slab is good with easy walk from the parking lot. there are few multi pitch 5.8 in the area and you could do them in 1-2 hours and move along to do others in the area.
Another option is near the church bowl with few 5.7 . You can also do Royal Arches in a day with a good partner but then if you screw up, you would be a famous in ANAM.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 14, 2009, 1:11 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
shimanilami
Aug 14, 2009, 1:23 PM
Post #3 of 9
(1749 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 1998
|
Manure Pile Buttress has some classic, moderate routes. And the walk is <5 minutes.
|
|
|
|
|
johnwesely
Aug 14, 2009, 1:25 PM
Post #4 of 9
(1745 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 12, 2006
Posts: 5323
|
Holy cow. Majid was just helpful.
|
|
|
|
|
IsayAutumn
Aug 14, 2009, 1:47 PM
Post #5 of 9
(1734 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2008
Posts: 355
|
johnwesely wrote: Holy cow. Majid was just helpful.
Indeed. Thanks, majid, and everyone else.
|
|
|
|
|
squishy654
Aug 14, 2009, 10:42 PM
Post #6 of 9
(1687 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 18, 2008
Posts: 137
|
The Grack
Munginella
|
|
|
|
|
majid_sabet
Aug 14, 2009, 11:08 PM
Post #7 of 9
(1681 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 12, 2002
Posts: 8196
|
IsayAutumn wrote: johnwesely wrote: Holy cow. Majid was just helpful. Indeed. Thanks, majid, and everyone else.
you are welcome, here is the view from the jam crack next to Yosemite fall. its 5 something the first pitch and little tighter on the second pitch. not sure if there is third pitch( i never check books) but I stop leading on the second so find a guide book and check it yourself. the second pitch has some tricky moves near the end of the pitch so if you are not too sure about your trad skill then let someone else lead it.
(This post was edited by majid_sabet on Aug 14, 2009, 11:09 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
patto
Aug 15, 2009, 1:50 AM
Post #8 of 9
(1659 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 14, 2005
Posts: 1428
|
Nutcracker. 5.8
Short walk in. 6 pitches. Moderate walk off. Great protection, many people lead it with nuts only. (hence the name.
|
|
|
|
|
marc801
Aug 17, 2009, 4:21 PM
Post #9 of 9
(1607 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2005
Posts: 2401
|
patto wrote: Nutcracker. 5.8 Short walk in. 6 pitches. Moderate walk off. Great protection, many people lead it with nuts only. (hence the name.
|
|
|
|
|
|
