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csproul
Aug 12, 2009, 9:02 PM
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suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels... because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...[/quote ]For that *once every ten year event* when I actually do drop my belay device, I think I can manage to use a munter to get down (or up). This saves me from looking like a gumby the other 1000 climbing days when I haven't dropped my belay device. BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". Guess you've never dropped your one and only belay device in the middle of of the night during an ice storm with gale force winds threatening to rip you off your perch and having to do multiple rappels off a munter on frozen ropes. I hope you never ever experience that one. At the risk of looking like a gumby or noob I'm taking that extra atc. Not quite that bad, but the one and only time I have dropped my belay device was rapping off Notch Top (RMNP) in the middle of a snow storm. The ropes were pretty frozen (it was winter), but it wasn't quite dark yet. We made it back to our tent as the sun went down. This was well over ten years ago, and I haven't dropped one again, so I think I'll take my chances without the extra. Well, if you and I ever go climbing together and you drop yours I've got your back Awesome...maybe I'm due to drop it now that I've opened my mouth?
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rtwilli4
Aug 12, 2009, 9:03 PM
Post #52 of 98
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Registered: Feb 14, 2008
Posts: 1867
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welle wrote: rtwilli4 wrote: What if I don't have any sort of guide at all? Is that plus or minus? minus at least couple of hundred points - pure onsight, no? yea or I just steal one ;)
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boymeetsrock
Aug 12, 2009, 9:10 PM
Post #53 of 98
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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csproul wrote: suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: suprasoup wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: csproul wrote: welle wrote: and I do carry an extra ATC on my harness, because it's so much easier to rig a rappel with these - it's not that heavy anyway... IIRC, munter is not recommended to for multiple rappels... because of the rope kinks - rappels are usually done when you are mentally and physically tired, mostly at the end of a long day, sometimes with a dark/storm approaching. Less things you have to mentally check on - the better, just my preference...[/quote ]For that *once every ten year event* when I actually do drop my belay device, I think I can manage to use a munter to get down (or up). This saves me from looking like a gumby the other 1000 climbing days when I haven't dropped my belay device. BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". Guess you've never dropped your one and only belay device in the middle of of the night during an ice storm with gale force winds threatening to rip you off your perch and having to do multiple rappels off a munter on frozen ropes. I hope you never ever experience that one. At the risk of looking like a gumby or noob I'm taking that extra atc. Not quite that bad, but the one and only time I have dropped my belay device was rapping off Notch Top (RMNP) in the middle of a snow storm. The ropes were pretty frozen (it was winter), but it wasn't quite dark yet. We made it back to our tent as the sun went down. This was well over ten years ago, and I haven't dropped one again, so I think I'll take my chances without the extra. Well, if you and I ever go climbing together and you drop yours I've got your back Awesome...maybe I'm due to drop it now that I've opened my mouth? Cheesetits +200
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csproul
Aug 12, 2009, 9:11 PM
Post #54 of 98
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
Posts: 1769
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guilty
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suprasoup
Aug 12, 2009, 9:14 PM
Post #55 of 98
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Registered: Mar 7, 2005
Posts: 309
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I am a noob
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boymeetsrock
Aug 12, 2009, 9:19 PM
Post #56 of 98
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
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Well, I scored a 32. Ask me to belay with caution...
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sbaclimber
Aug 13, 2009, 8:03 AM
Post #58 of 98
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
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Definitely below -20 (sometimes I wear my helmet belaying, sometimes I don't...) The "Climber has more hardware than home depot" score killed me ....discrimination, I say! .....just because I show up at a sport crag with a full set each of: micro-wires, nuts, C3s, loweballs, cams to #3, and tricams to #3, because I want to lead the one and only crack there "clean".....doesn't make me a n00b. Just a crack addict, gear whore, wanna-play-with-shiny things, um.......n00b....
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mikeo
Aug 13, 2009, 8:44 PM
Post #59 of 98
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Posts: 16
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+150 for wearing a bicycle or hockey helmet.
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jamatt
Aug 13, 2009, 8:51 PM
Post #60 of 98
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Registered: Oct 4, 2005
Posts: 160
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high school never ever ever ends, does it....
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Allanon124
Aug 14, 2009, 7:22 AM
Post #61 of 98
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Registered: Jul 19, 2009
Posts: 25
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not sure eexactly what to say. maybe something along the lines of "when you see a noob, you know" and "when you first started clmbing i bet you wernt a noob". i have a good friend who has the oldest, moldiest, craped out set of cams. hes been collecting them for 20 years. i lead, he follows. we use my gear. a couple thoughts though. ovals are the cheapest, and quite possibly the oldest shape in carabiners. rap ring r cool. though, i find pleasure in climbing past someones bail biner and getting booty for accomplishing. plus they are allways super shitty and have a good story to tell. sometimes i do wonder how many times this little beat up guy got dumped on the 5th pitch. on the reverse side, ocasionaly leaving a reward for a luckier or better climber keeps everything flowing smoothly. sometimes you have to take a noob under your wing........so you can eventualy get a belay. Peace o ya the helmut thing. thats personal bro. just like wearing a condom. sometimes you do, sometimes you dont. if things go wrong without one your in BIG trouble. though squezing into tight cracks with one is tuffer than with out one. shoot i crack myself up....... God Bless
(This post was edited by Allanon124 on Aug 14, 2009, 7:25 AM)
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LostinMaine
Aug 14, 2009, 2:32 PM
Post #62 of 98
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Registered: May 8, 2007
Posts: 539
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Or perhaps -100 if they are still carrying a coil of Goldline. -100 if they have never heard of a link cam +25 if they believe the Appies were right and everyone should take a belay test.
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dingus
Aug 14, 2009, 3:40 PM
Post #63 of 98
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LostinMaine wrote: everyone should take a belay test. The appies must have become gym owners and insurance salesmen? DMT
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scrapedape
Aug 14, 2009, 6:22 PM
Post #64 of 98
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Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 2392
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+10 for each hex on their rack
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mar_leclerc
Aug 17, 2009, 4:35 AM
Post #65 of 98
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Registered: Jun 1, 2008
Posts: 156
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nothing but shoes and chalk bag -100
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jamincan
Aug 17, 2009, 10:40 AM
Post #66 of 98
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I'm not sure I'd want someone with only shoes and a chalkbag belaying me.
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mar_leclerc
Aug 17, 2009, 2:55 PM
Post #67 of 98
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jamincan wrote: I'm not sure I'd want someone with only shoes and a chalkbag belaying me. Hip belay
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jt512
Aug 17, 2009, 3:11 PM
Post #68 of 98
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mar_leclerc wrote: jamincan wrote: I'm not sure I'd want someone with only shoes and a chalkbag belaying me. Hip belay I think you meant, "Hip belay, n00b." Jay
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mar_leclerc
Aug 17, 2009, 7:24 PM
Post #69 of 98
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jt512 wrote: mar_leclerc wrote: jamincan wrote: I'm not sure I'd want someone with only shoes and a chalkbag belaying me. Hip belay I think you meant, "Hip belay, n00b." Jay Perfect, thats exactly what I meant.
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Factor2
Aug 17, 2009, 7:44 PM
Post #70 of 98
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Registered: Jul 17, 2008
Posts: 188
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rschap wrote: And if you don’t carry prussic you’re either bad ass and never fail or you’re a pussy and never push your limits. you do know that there are ways to ascend without prussic cord right? please tell me you know more than just the prussic
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evanwish
Aug 18, 2009, 1:40 AM
Post #71 of 98
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Registered: May 23, 2007
Posts: 1040
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I got -258
(This post was edited by evanwish on Aug 18, 2009, 1:54 AM)
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Bag11s
Aug 18, 2009, 2:38 AM
Post #72 of 98
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Registered: May 8, 2009
Posts: 98
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-3 The cheapest 80's biners: Omega Pacific. -5 Multiple wads of every make of small wires, nuts, and chocks with suspect kinked & frayed wire with tape wraps at the swages. -10 Original TCUs with faded multicolored girth hitched slings and gritty yet workable action. +15 Iron worker’s union hardhat. (poser, albeit a clever one) -25 The pink swami, for sure.
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herbertpowell
Aug 18, 2009, 3:14 PM
Post #73 of 98
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Registered: Apr 3, 2009
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welle wrote: csproul wrote: BTW There should be +100 points for anyone who shows up at the crag in the middle of the day with their headlamp attached to their helmet "just in case". LOL, I've seen that early AM in the Gunks with huge expedition style headlamps - cut them a slack as prolly visiting climbers (or nyc show-offs)... +100 for Arc'Teryx packs to carry gear (tend to be shiny) -100 for Cold Cold World or Dana Design packs (tend to be dirty) How many points if said Arcteryx pack is around 15 years old, frayed, and has a tube worth of seam grip on it? I just washed it, so it isn't too dirty anymore.
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cchas
Aug 18, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #74 of 98
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Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
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coolcat83 wrote: Now this situation is a bit contrived because in my experience trad partners are a close bunch and tend not to just pick up and climb with anyone that walks by but in the interest of fairness I bring you this: You are meeting your regular partner at the local trad crag when he calls and tells you he will be delayed in traffic but to go ahead and get racked up, you think this is unusual but you go ahead anyway and start to get the gear out of your bag and rack up, you planned to climb on his lead rope. As you get set at the base of your target another climber who's partner is also in the same traffic jamb says hello and engages you in some small talk, then offering to follow you on the first pitch of your climb. Before taking a potential pitch onto your gear at the hands of this unknown belayer, or perhaps worse having the n00b cement your gear trying to clean it you need the: Screening test for n00bs - Trad Version Risk factor 1: Helmet No helmet +50 Climber has a helmet at the crag: -25 points Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: -20 points Climber wore a helmet on the approach: +15 points (-15 for 4th+ class and/or alpine approaches) Climber got out of car wearing helmet: +50 points Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes Climber's shoes are made from natural leather: -10 points Shoes are made of synthetic material that need to be removed like the plague at every belay and smell like death: +30 points Lace up: -10 points Aggressively down turned toe: +10 points Risk factor 3: Harness Any harness having less than 4 gear loops: +5 points non-full strength haul loop: +5 points No evidence of chimney grovelling scrapes or dirt/mud stains: +5 points Risk factor 4: Belay device(s) Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one. (you should know the munter) In addition: Has a grigri hanging from harness: +20 points Has a device whose brand name is "ATC" followed by something: -5 points +150 points for ATC sport Risk factor 5: Rack Climber has a good selection of pieces somewhat tailored to the area: -20 points Climber has more hardware than home depot (and it's not for aid): +40 points, -10 points if it's discovered climber is gear addict when discussing the pros and cons of stacking nuts, in opposed horizontal placements, while run out. Climber has set of 10 sport draws on him: +30 points Risk factor 6: Unnecessary(?)/necessary equipment -2 points for each locker that serves an obvious purpose on harness -10 points for each rap ring on the climber's harness Prussic cord on harness: -5 points No tape when asked: +30points (if you hand jamb without tape ignore) -10 for duct tape nalgene holder +5 for every sport draw (unless it looks like it's been run over several times, then -5) + 20 for matching draws. + 10 for matching cams. +100 if they're shiny. - 10^n for each item with a chouinard logo on it Risk factor 7: Topo +20 for crisp recently published guidebook - 5 for topos on copy paper - 10 for guide held together with duct tape - 30 if their guide is older than you are Risk factor 8: Clothing 10^n where n = the number of items bearing a Prana logo + 10 for jeans - 10 for carhardts. An additional -5 for each hole. +5 for crocs 100 or more: Run away. 50–99 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk. 25–49 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber. 0–24 points: Probably a top roper or sport climber. Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do. My apologies for any offense I may have caused jt512 while stealing composing this post. Edited for editing thanks to knieveltech for the additions. Sorry, I just went YEGO on this one (your eyes glaze over). The post has to havee come from a NOOB in denial. If you get out and around you'll find people who would solo around most of us who are all types helmet: I know very good climbers who climb with them on (CrackMD and Lisa) and a lot of great climbers who forgo them. Climbing Shoes: who gives a crap: I've seen a guy walk "Panic in Detroit" (a gear protected 5.12b/c for those noobs who don't know) in an old pair of his GIRLFRIENDS climbing shoes harness/ rack, new old: with 2 gear loops with 4 with haul loops: who the shit cares. Hell, Henry Barber wears a swaimi so does that make him an ultra noob. when I was in a phase of doing R/x-rated routes, I'd wear a sporto harness since I was only taking 2 or 3 pieces anyways... as for more gear then home depot..... I guess you forgot about places like Indian Creek. Showing up there with a gunks rack either means a) you have no clue about the place or b) you are Alex Honnold. can I say this is pretty moronic
(This post was edited by cchas on Aug 18, 2009, 8:03 PM)
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coolcat83
Aug 18, 2009, 8:51 PM
Post #75 of 98
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cchas wrote: coolcat83 wrote: Now this situation is a bit contrived because in my experience trad partners are a close bunch and tend not to just pick up and climb with anyone that walks by but in the interest of fairness I bring you this: You are meeting your regular partner at the local trad crag when he calls and tells you he will be delayed in traffic but to go ahead and get racked up, you think this is unusual but you go ahead anyway and start to get the gear out of your bag and rack up, you planned to climb on his lead rope. As you get set at the base of your target another climber who's partner is also in the same traffic jamb says hello and engages you in some small talk, then offering to follow you on the first pitch of your climb. Before taking a potential pitch onto your gear at the hands of this unknown belayer, or perhaps worse having the n00b cement your gear trying to clean it you need the: Screening test for n00bs - Trad Version Risk factor 1: Helmet No helmet +50 Climber has a helmet at the crag: -25 points Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: -20 points Climber wore a helmet on the approach: +15 points (-15 for 4th+ class and/or alpine approaches) Climber got out of car wearing helmet: +50 points Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes Climber's shoes are made from natural leather: -10 points Shoes are made of synthetic material that need to be removed like the plague at every belay and smell like death: +30 points Lace up: -10 points Aggressively down turned toe: +10 points Risk factor 3: Harness Any harness having less than 4 gear loops: +5 points non-full strength haul loop: +5 points No evidence of chimney grovelling scrapes or dirt/mud stains: +5 points Risk factor 4: Belay device(s) Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one. (you should know the munter) In addition: Has a grigri hanging from harness: +20 points Has a device whose brand name is "ATC" followed by something: -5 points +150 points for ATC sport Risk factor 5: Rack Climber has a good selection of pieces somewhat tailored to the area: -20 points Climber has more hardware than home depot (and it's not for aid): +40 points, -10 points if it's discovered climber is gear addict when discussing the pros and cons of stacking nuts, in opposed horizontal placements, while run out. Climber has set of 10 sport draws on him: +30 points Risk factor 6: Unnecessary(?)/necessary equipment -2 points for each locker that serves an obvious purpose on harness -10 points for each rap ring on the climber's harness Prussic cord on harness: -5 points No tape when asked: +30points (if you hand jamb without tape ignore) -10 for duct tape nalgene holder +5 for every sport draw (unless it looks like it's been run over several times, then -5) + 20 for matching draws. + 10 for matching cams. +100 if they're shiny. - 10^n for each item with a chouinard logo on it Risk factor 7: Topo +20 for crisp recently published guidebook - 5 for topos on copy paper - 10 for guide held together with duct tape - 30 if their guide is older than you are Risk factor 8: Clothing 10^n where n = the number of items bearing a Prana logo + 10 for jeans - 10 for carhardts. An additional -5 for each hole. +5 for crocs 100 or more: Run away. 50–99 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk. 25–49 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber. 0–24 points: Probably a top roper or sport climber. Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do. My apologies for any offense I may have caused jt512 while stealing composing this post. Edited for editing thanks to knieveltech for the additions. Sorry, I just went YEGO on this one (your eyes glaze over). The post has to havee come from a NOOB in denial. If you get out and around you'll find people who would solo around most of us who are all types helmet: I know very good climbers who climb with them on (CrackMD and Lisa) and a lot of great climbers who forgo them. Climbing Shoes: who gives a crap: I've seen a guy walk "Panic in Detroit" (a gear protected 5.12b/c for those noobs who don't know) in an old pair of his GIRLFRIENDS climbing shoes harness/ rack, new old: with 2 gear loops with 4 with haul loops: who the shit cares. Hell, Henry Barber wears a swaimi so does that make him an ultra noob. when I was in a phase of doing R/x-rated routes, I'd wear a sporto harness since I was only taking 2 or 3 pieces anyways... as for more gear then home depot..... I guess you forgot about places like Indian Creek. Showing up there with a gunks rack either means a) you have no clue about the place or b) you are Alex Honnold. can I say this is pretty moronic A) you are late to the name calling party B) this post was based off another post which also had generalizations and was not meant seriously. C) your points were already made, some of them by me. I probably don't climb as hard as you, but I've been at it for a long time, maybe longer than you. everyone should hope to have some noob in them always because when you think you know it all you get dangerous. meh, serves me for posting things that I thought were amusing late night.
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