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BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE
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paulmadry


Aug 17, 2009, 2:13 PM
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Registered: Oct 15, 2002
Posts: 69

BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Cannon_Cliff)
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P6. Climb through blocky headwall, moving right then up a shallow lt-facing corner to slabs. Continue w/poor protection to the cow's mouth.
I am not that strong at 5.10 so poor protection scares me. ANY RECENT BETA ON PRO OR HOW TO DO IT "SAFELY" ?
Thanks a lot
Paul


marc801


Aug 17, 2009, 4:28 PM
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Registered: Aug 1, 2005
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Re: [paulmadry] BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE [In reply to]
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paulmadry wrote:
P6. Climb through blocky headwall, moving right then up a shallow lt-facing corner to slabs. Continue w/poor protection to the cow's mouth.
I am not that strong at 5.10 so poor protection scares me. ANY RECENT BETA ON PRO OR HOW TO DO IT "SAFELY" ?
Thanks a lot
You're "Not that strong at 5.10", yet to get to P6 are two pitches of 10+ and one of 11, and P7 is also 10+. Is there something I'm not understanding here?


paulmadry


Aug 17, 2009, 6:48 PM
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Re: [marc801] BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE [In reply to]
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He he . That only means that 5.10 R is scary for me. I am good with 5.11 pg. Any info on that pitch?
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olderic


Aug 17, 2009, 6:54 PM
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Re: [paulmadry] BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE [In reply to]
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It's been a long long time but I have done P6 a couple of times. As has been previously suggested - if you get that far - past the 1st 5 pitches - you won't have any problems with P6.


paulmadry


Aug 18, 2009, 6:03 AM
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Re: [olderic] BETA ON VMC DIRECT DIRECT 6th PITCH. PLEASE [In reply to]
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What makes me uneasy is the description from Rock Climbing New England (S. Green) Pitch 6: A long, scary lead with dubious protection and tricky crux. Surmount a steep headwall (5.10) and climb a left-facing corner to easier slabs above to belay in the Cows Mouth.
???


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