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joeforte
Jul 6, 2009, 3:07 PM
Post #801 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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If you forgot your rope this past weekend, or know a friend that did, send me a PM because I picked it up. The reason I'm not saying where it was found is because the area is officially "closed" to climbing. It was laying all across the base of the cliff while we were there, and we couldn't find anyone around so when we left I grabbed it. I didn't want the local kids to come find it and pretend to be rock climbers!
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smulder
Jul 7, 2009, 9:49 PM
Post #802 of 883
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Registered: Jul 7, 2009
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Hey PA,
I am going on a motorcycle trip around the Rothrock and Wyoming State Park areas next weekend. Can anyone give me a run down on close by climbing areas since I'm not sure where to look since it falls dead center in PA for the most part and I'm not that sure on the area. I'd be up for sport, toprope or bouldering. Routes should be between 5.9 and 5.10d maybe easy 5.11s.
Any help is very much appreciated!
Thanks,
Scott
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blubeard
Jul 11, 2009, 4:40 PM
Post #803 of 883
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Registered: Jun 21, 2007
Posts: 26
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joeforte wrote: If you forgot your rope this past weekend, or know a friend that did, send me a PM because I picked it up. The reason I'm not saying where it was found is because the area is officially "closed" to climbing. It was laying all across the base of the cliff while we were there, and we couldn't find anyone around so when we left I grabbed it. I didn't want the local kids to come find it and pretend to be rock climbers!
I'm not sure, but I'm thinking I could be persuaded to admit that I was climbing at Safe Harbor....and get a free rope out of it.
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joeforte
Jul 11, 2009, 10:36 PM
Post #804 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Bzzzt. Wrong area. Anyone else?
I need a color and manufacturer as well.
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BlackSheep92
Aug 3, 2009, 4:20 PM
Post #805 of 883
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Registered: Jul 6, 2008
Posts: 6
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In reply to: Guys, Always looking for a climbing partner for High Rocks/Stover area. Have all needed equipment, have seconded up at the Gunx and kene Valley, looking to learn leading. Can climb up to 5.7 so far, have a mised schedule with time off during the week/weekends. drop an e-mail to jschili@comcast.net if you might be interested. Thanks, stay safe. |
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boymeetsrock
Aug 7, 2009, 6:24 PM
Post #806 of 883
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Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 1709
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Howdy Folks. I'm looking for a little info on the DWG PA side. Namely, how bad is the poison Ivy there?
I've been to the NJ side and the PI is horrendous. Is it at all avoidable on the PA side?
Thanks!
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joeforte
Aug 18, 2009, 10:23 PM
Post #808 of 883
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patrickgensel wrote: joeforte wrote: If you forgot your rope this past weekend, or know a friend that did, send me a PM because I picked it up. The reason I'm not saying where it was found is because the area is officially "closed" to climbing. It was laying all across the base of the cliff while we were there, and we couldn't find anyone around so when we left I grabbed it. I didn't want the local kids to come find it and pretend to be rock climbers! ohh thank god, you found my pink and aqua marine colored rope that i left at tilbury rocks  haha jus playin
Bzzzzzt, sorry... wrong color AND wrong place haha!
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patrickgensel
Aug 19, 2009, 1:42 PM
Post #809 of 883
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Registered: Mar 19, 2009
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HAHA good, i was hoping Tilbury rocks wasn't closed, i have yet to make it up there. though i do hear that access is a sensitive issue there. but im going off on a tangent. hope the person that owns that rope finds this :)
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rocksomerocks
Sep 7, 2009, 4:43 AM
Post #810 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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two rattlers at J.B. rocks got photos of one of them and two climbers climbing two well try to post pic soon.
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rocksomerocks
Sep 17, 2009, 4:31 AM
Post #811 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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does any one know how i can put my full size rock photos on here with out cropping the things to death.thanks the full pictures are at photo bucket . com under Henry Ford 1971
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ClimbinFF77
Sep 25, 2009, 7:36 PM
Post #812 of 883
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Registered: Jan 15, 2009
Posts: 3
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Looking to get into top roping. I've done some indoor climbing in the past few years but nothing serious. Just looking to get outside and have some fun.
I have a harness and will be getting a belay device when I get more into it.
I'm really close to Ralph Stover if anyone is interested in helping out a newbie I'd be happy to tag along.
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rocksomerocks
Sep 27, 2009, 3:09 AM
Post #813 of 883
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Registered: Jan 11, 2009
Posts: 28
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Yes if you ever get in the area of White tail ski resort look let me know.
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adatesman
Oct 1, 2009, 11:58 PM
Post #814 of 883
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
Posts: 3479
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Enord92
Feb 19, 2010, 12:52 AM
Post #815 of 883
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Registered: Feb 11, 2010
Posts: 2
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looking for a partner to climb with at PRG Valley and Vertical extreme in Chester county PA.. im a novice so if you have experience I would love to learn some stuff from you.
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dancottle
Feb 25, 2010, 8:35 PM
Post #816 of 883
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Registered: Oct 25, 2009
Posts: 41
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Hey any climbers located around scranton? I live up in Clarks Summit from may to spetember about 5 mins from the morgan high way ridge. I dont know anyone who climbs locally so im looking for a partner etc.
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dontfall
Feb 28, 2010, 1:41 AM
Post #817 of 883
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Registered: Mar 31, 2003
Posts: 2798
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I live in Dickson city. I'm thinking about getting back into climbing. It's been several years but I'm reconsidering.
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m.b.
Mar 13, 2010, 4:18 PM
Post #818 of 883
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Registered: Jun 12, 2008
Posts: 16
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Hi,
I am from NY and I was considering doing some climbing in PA next week, based on this season's conditions. I read that Chikie Rocks were climbable even in Winter, is that true this year? Are many people out in March as long as it is warm enough?
Thanks!
MB
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adatesman
Mar 13, 2010, 7:33 PM
Post #819 of 883
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Registered: Jul 13, 2005
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Probably should throw this here as well... Mount Minsi at DWG (read: PA side) is temporarily closed due to nesting falcons. It should reopen again mid-summer, so please respect the closure and let the falcons do their thing.
Link to notice
-a.
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markthedixon
Mar 19, 2010, 8:50 PM
Post #820 of 883
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Registered: Jul 8, 2009
Posts: 1
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Is anyone headed to Chickies tomorrow? I thought I might go in the morning.
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nepaclimber
Apr 4, 2010, 11:47 PM
Post #821 of 883
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Registered: Apr 7, 2007
Posts: 56
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I am looking for some climbing partners for the next few months at Birdsboro, I am available both weekdays and weekends. I haven't been climbing regularly since I moved to the Philadelphia area but I have a rope and draws and a trad rack. I am looking for partners who want to climb in the 5.7-5.11 range.
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zxcv
Apr 9, 2010, 10:51 PM
Post #822 of 883
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Registered: Feb 1, 2006
Posts: 96
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Since the NJ Climber’s Coalition board gets almost no traffic, I am posting this here… some of the following reiterates questions posted but unanswered on that board.
I just downloaded the much anticipated (by me at least) Northeastern PA e-book guide from http://www.paclimbing.com/index.htm
If I am reading the info on the site correctly, this is one section of the upcoming print guide for the entire state. If so, I like this approach as I do not ever see myself driving the 6 hours to Mconnell’s Mill, etc. I would actually prefer separate mini guides that could be downloaded for each region as opposed to one unwieldy volume for the entire state.
The Bluebiner site indicates that a separate guide is forthcoming for the Gap… does anyone know if this is the case? The e-book has sparse coverage of Minsi and Tammany, and though some new routes are included, I believe most of them will have limited appeal (Jesus Built my Hotrod, 5.10c X = yikes!).
One aspect of the book strikes me as particularly unclear; bolting at the Gap.
According to the text; “The Access Fund has worked with the park regarding fixed anchors… The outcome of these talks about anchors is to allow safe replacement of poor existing anchors by designated individuals” [and] “At present, the park frowns on the use of motorized drills; however, permission has been granted to select individuals for anchor replacement of existing anchors only!” (33-4).
These statements indicate a sever restriction, if not an outright moratorium, on bolting.
However, on page 34 under the “Ethical Considerations” section the author indicates that good communication can ameliorate potential conflicts over bolting (which, I think, was the case in the recent Osprey anchor) and goes on to states that bolt placement will increase as many of the blank faces are bolted in order to establish new lines. Although guideliness for bolting are given, there is no indication that the practice is prohibited.
So, what is the case here? Is bolting allowed, but existing anchors can only be replaced by designated individuals?
Also, page 51 indicates that the Osprey rap station was established due to bird nesting, but I do not think this was the case. Was this statement included as some kind of diplomatic justification for why the existing anchor had to be placed? I though everyone involved was rather civil about the whole debacle at the time (thanks Aric and Joe for cleaning up the mess).
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2010, 3:13 AM
Post #823 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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I agree, I think the separate ebook format is awesome. He'll be providing updates to it online as well.
I'm pretty sure he'll be selling a dwg miniguide on the side.
As for the nesting falcon comment, I believe the half dead tree that was once the old rap anchor was also a nesting site years ago. Although it clearly has not been recently, maybe this year it will.
As for new bolts in the gap... I just hope no more trad lines get retrobolted... Even if they are 5.12x!
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zxcv
Apr 10, 2010, 5:38 AM
Post #824 of 883
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I should have mentioned that the book was obviously a major undertaking requiring years of exploration and bushwacking... not always a pleasant task in PA (I have to take a machete every time I go to, what the book calls, the Land of the Lost boulders or thorns make them unapproachable).
I appreciate the undertaking and really enjoy the "go and explore" tone that permeates the text...
Joe, I assumed that if there were designated anchor replacers at the Gap that you'd be one of them, so I remain confused on that point.
Also, what trad lines had been bolted? Aside from 3 new anchors (Osprey, Witches, H and HH), I have not seen any new bolts in five years.
Lastly- to what degree is an X route, when defined as "Extremely poor gear, unreliable gear, or no gear. A fall would most likely result in serious injury or death" (p.23) significantly different from a free solo?
I agree and fully support NOT putting up sport routes, but the text indicates more to come, and I think many people would see little difference between the blank face of a X rated climb and a potential sport route. Is the distinction you make due to "trad" being defined as ground up ascent?
I am not trying to be argumentative, but if we agree that bolts ought not to be placed on trad routes, regardless of the safety of those routes, we have to have some idea of what "trad" implies... after all, the text does state that the first bolt placed at the Gap is what made Morning Sickness possible (p.52). Since no holds were manufactured, this means it made the route psychologically possible due to the increase in safety... for many people, an X route is not possible in the same way Morning Sickness was not prior to the bolt.
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joeforte
Apr 10, 2010, 2:20 PM
Post #825 of 883
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Crackpot 5.4? was retro'd with crappy bolts and washers under the hangers. They obviously had no idea what this does to the forces on the bolt, let alone the fact that they were bolting a trad route. The gap is no place for 5.4 sport climbs with loose rock. That is just asking to draw the wrong crowd.
Rob mentions a few others in the guide that were retro'd as well. This must not continue.
Your bolts vs. x question is an old debate, that will not be solved easily. I understand your point, but the debate is common all over the place. For example:
arrow (5.9?) in the gunks has bolts, but yellow crack (5.12r/x) does not. Why, I don't know...
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