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cjon3s
Aug 19, 2009, 5:50 AM
Post #151 of 245
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I;d just like to know a few things.
What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense.
And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?
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kriso9tails
Aug 19, 2009, 7:03 AM
Post #152 of 245
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Are you being facetious, or do you really not understand?
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gmggg
Aug 19, 2009, 11:57 AM
Post #153 of 245
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cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?
N00b!!!
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LostinMaine
Aug 19, 2009, 1:14 PM
Post #154 of 245
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cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?
Good luck in your climbing partner search. He'll be the one carrying the walkie-talkie to communicate with his partner more responsibly.
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shockabuku
Aug 19, 2009, 1:54 PM
Post #155 of 245
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cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?
Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes.
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kriso9tails
Aug 19, 2009, 2:19 PM
Post #156 of 245
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shockabuku wrote: cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet? Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes.
They make your ass look fat.
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shockabuku
Aug 19, 2009, 2:26 PM
Post #157 of 245
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kriso9tails wrote: shockabuku wrote: cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws? I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet? Same thing that's wrong with apostrophes. They make your ass look fat.
Exactly.
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jt512
Aug 19, 2009, 3:16 PM
Post #158 of 245
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cjon3s wrote: I;d just like to know a few things. What;s wrong with not having a petzl harness or draws?
Who said there's anything wrong with them?
In reply to: I have black diamond for both. No problems. And I have a cinch over a gri-gri. Seeing that it works better, your test is nonsense. Seeing that I have a rope bag but it;s not metolius I gained 5 points. Again, nonsense. And what's so wrong with wearing a helmet?
Is my test nonsense? Your profile is blank. How long have you been sport climbing, and at what level do you climb?
BTW, what's wrong with an apostrophe?
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Aug 19, 2009, 3:17 PM)
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cjon3s
Aug 19, 2009, 7:27 PM
Post #159 of 245
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Seeing that I have been flamed, I am a n00b. Sorry about my misuse of the poor apostrophe.
I was not being facetious, I really did not understand.
Sorry jt.
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 10, 2009, 4:56 PM
Post #160 of 245
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50, which puts me just past the "visiting trad climber" category, which I am.
What's the deal with the color red?
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kriso9tails
Sep 10, 2009, 9:18 PM
Post #161 of 245
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TarHeelEMT wrote: What's the deal with the color red?
They wear red to hide the blood splatter on their clothes from the climbing partners they've dropped while giving shitty n00b-style belays.
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TarHeelEMT
Sep 11, 2009, 11:53 PM
Post #162 of 245
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I see.
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rjtrials
Sep 12, 2009, 2:20 AM
Post #163 of 245
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I got 22 but my 'leather' shoes are either Testarossa's or Scarpa Mago's. Although my harness is not a Petzl, i do climb in the new-ish Arc'Teryx harness, so i gave myself the 5 points begrudgingly. I also gained points on the quickdraws because about half my gear is either petzl dogbones or biners. all my shit is so old, beaten, tattered and worn, my draws aren't dividend by brand. Instead dogbone and biner are mated according to length and how much of a groove/notch the biner has or does not have.
I think i really only earned 2 points for my metolius dogbones that used to be red.
What is the official ruling JT??
RJ
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jt512
Sep 14, 2009, 5:48 AM
Post #164 of 245
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rjtrials wrote: I got 22 but my 'leather' shoes are either Testarossa's or Scarpa Mago's. Although my harness is not a Petzl, i do climb in the new-ish Arc'Teryx harness, so i gave myself the 5 points begrudgingly. I also gained points on the quickdraws because about half my gear is either petzl dogbones or biners. all my shit is so old, beaten, tattered and worn, my draws aren't dividend by brand. Instead dogbone and biner are mated according to length and how much of a groove/notch the biner has or does not have. I think i really only earned 2 points for my metolius dogbones that used to be red. What is the official ruling JT?? RJ
The test isn't designed for self-scoring. So, you have to ask yourself: how would an experienced sport climber score you. He'd probably notice the age of your draws and give you the benefit of the doubt on the mixed brands.
Jay
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roughster
Sep 14, 2009, 6:17 AM
Post #165 of 245
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I scored a 10: Non-Petzl draws (though I have many Petzls) and a non-metolious rope bag (Fuck paying, I use a homemade synthetic table cloth with a elastic band to hold it together. Works like a charm.
Looks like a pretty good scale/indicator to me.
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dingus
Sep 14, 2009, 12:36 PM
Post #166 of 245
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roughster wrote: with a elastic band to hold it together. Works like a charm.
That's hilarious roughster. My buddy Angus went deep into the BC with another partner of mine, it was their first (and only) back country adventure together solely in each other's company.
My other buddy was Mr High Tech, Goretex coated sleeping bag that compressed into the size of a walnut and cost a thousand bucks, etc.
They get to the bivi site and its drizzling.
Angus whips out his custom SHOWER CURTAIN BIVI TENT, layys it over his $50 polywhatever bag and is snoring before Mr Goretex can close his open mouth.
True.
And they never DID climb together again after that, but that's another story
DMT
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billcoe_
Sep 15, 2009, 12:48 AM
Post #167 of 245
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dingus wrote: There are all sorts of noobs, like unpolished turds every damn one of them.DMT
I had to read this twice to catch the inference. LOL!
For myself, JT already called me out on it so sure I'll admit I'm a sport noob, but sometimes high end sport non-n00bs take pity on my sorry trad ass and drag my sorry butt out for some sport: but everytime I get home, I feel so dirty....and used. I just don't know how you all do it all the time.
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bennydh
Sep 15, 2009, 1:01 AM
Post #168 of 245
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I try to bitch and complain a lot whilst pointing out all the manufactured or glued holds when I sport climb. Somehow, I feel a little less dirty by doing this, and little less like a desperate climbing whore when I can't get on some nice trad line.
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notapplicable
Sep 17, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #169 of 245
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Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though.
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jt512
Sep 17, 2009, 7:42 PM
Post #170 of 245
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notapplicable wrote: Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though.
It has to be an ATC-something, and it doesn't matter what something is, as long as it isn't blank. No points for a plain vanilla ATC.
Jay
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notapplicable
Sep 17, 2009, 9:03 PM
Post #171 of 245
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jt512 wrote: notapplicable wrote: Not too bad. 40 points total and I agree with 30 of em. No GriGri, an ATC and no stick clip are definitely universal signes of the sport nOObage. If I actually cared I might would argue about the non-petzl harness and draws though. It has to be an ATC- something, and it doesn't matter what something is, as long as it isn't blank. No points for a plain vanilla ATC. Jay
Woot!! 30 points for me.
I was given slight pause by the phrasing on that one but decided to err on the side of over scoring. Probably a subconscious thing; sport only makes up 17.9211% of my clilmbing so I was honestly expecting to score higher.
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t_camuti
Oct 4, 2009, 1:44 PM
Post #172 of 245
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My regular partner is a 63 yr old climber who has been climbing longer than I have been alive (and I'm over 30). His scoring:
Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber is wearing a helmet belaying: 10 points
Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes
*Exception 2: Climber's shoes are EBs: -100 points
extra negative points for multiple home resoles with shoe goo that you can count like geologic layers of rock?
Risk factor 3: Harness
Any modern harness not made by Petzl: 5 points
Risk factor 4: Belay device(s)
Does not have a grigri: 10 points
how many points for using any excuse to use the Munther hitch? If he can't see his belay device, usually it is just on his rear gear loop, he just whips up a Munther and uses that for belay/ rappel.
Risk factor 5: Quick draws
Anything other than Petzl: 5 points
Risk factor 6: Rope bag
None: 20 points
Risk factor 7: Stick clip
None: 10 points
Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment
10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device
= 30 points
Risk factor 9: REI
0 points
Risk factor 10: The color red
0 points
Scoring:
-10 points
Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.
Good test!
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backclipped
Oct 22, 2009, 2:18 PM
Post #173 of 245
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It's been some time since I've visited this website. Some things have changed (like the face of the site) and some things haven't jt512 is still a jackass. Please place me in your "kill file", you f#$ing tool. |
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dolphja
Oct 22, 2009, 3:36 PM
Post #174 of 245
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Risk factor 1: Helmet
Climber has a helmet at the crag: 2 points
Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes
Climber's shoes, five tenif not slippers, are made from natural leather: 10 points*
Risk factor 3: Harness
Any modern harness not made by Petzl:BD!!! FK!! 5 points
Risk factor 4: Belay device(s)
Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one.
In addition:
Does not have a grigri: 10 points
Has a Cinch: 10 points
Risk factor 5: Quick draws
Anything other than Petzl: 5 points x 10 =50
Petzl logo on dogbones: -50 points x 5 = 250
-200 what if it's a mix?
Risk factor 6: Rope bag
RED metolius- gonna have to add 1 point for that one
Risk factor 7: Stick clip
None: 10 points FK!
Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment
10^n points, where n is the number of items girth hitched to the climber's harness
10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device x 2!!! AHHH 20 points  FKING runners for anchors
Risk factor 9: REI
Risk factor 10: The color red
1 point for each red item among the climber's gear, unless the gear is unscratched; then, 10 points.
oh boy... need a calculator. FK = 11 more points
squishy654 wrote:I am ex-Army...
+10
army surplus (not really, just gear taken from in service) T-10C paracheute pack tray that i've been using as a crag bag for the past 15 years -10 points (bonus!)
desert camo patrol bag for trad gear -10 points
digital camo camelback for long wall routes -10 points
And the tally is... ... ... -141 (i'm thinkin' all those Petzl draws saved my life!)
i'm gonna have to add something to this.
Has not led 5.12 or higher in the past 5 years "injury or not" +200 POINTS
Scoring:
100 or more: Run away.
50–99 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk.
25–49 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber.
0–24 points: Probably an experienced sport climber.
Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.
(This post was edited by dolphja on Oct 22, 2009, 3:40 PM)
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dolphja
Oct 22, 2009, 3:37 PM
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dolphja wrote: Risk factor 1: Helmet Climber has a helmet at the crag: 2 points Risk factor 2: Climbing shoes Climber's shoes, five tenif not slippers, are made from natural leather: 10 points* Risk factor 3: Harness Any modern harness not made by Petzl: BD!!! FK!! 5 points Risk factor 4: Belay device(s) Give the climber 10^n points, where n is the number of belay devices on the climber's harness in excess of one. In addition: Does not have a grigri: 10 points Has a Cinch: 10 points Risk factor 5: Quick draws Anything other than Petzl: 5 points x 10 = 50 Petzl logo on dogbones: -50 points x 5 = 250 -200 what if it's a mix? Risk factor 6: Rope bag RED metolius- gonna have to add 1 point for that one Risk factor 7: Stick clip None: 10 points FK! Risk factor 8: Unnecessary equipment 10^n points, where n is the number of items girth hitched to the climber's harness 10 points for each locking carabiner on the climber's harness not clipped to a belay device x 2!!! AHHH 20 points FKING runners for anchors Risk factor 9: REI Risk factor 10: The color red 1 point for each red item among the climber's gear, unless the gear is unscratched; then, 10 points. oh boy... need a calculator. FK = 11 more points squishy654 wrote:I am ex-Army... +10 army surplus (not really, just gear taken from in service) T-10C paracheute pack tray that i've been using as a crag bag for the past 15 years -10 points (bonus!) desert camo patrol bag for trad gear -10 points digital camo camelback for long wall routes -10 points And the tally is......... -141 (i'm thinkin' all those Petzl draws saved my life!) i'm gonna have to add something to this. Has not led 5.12 or higher in the past 5 years "injury or not" Scoring: 100 or more: Run away. 50–99 points: High n00b probability. Climb with at your own risk. 25–49 points: Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber. 0–24 points: Probably an experienced sport climber. Less than 0: The climber probably knows more about climbing than you do.
that would put me in the Possibly a n00b or a visiting trad climber category 
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